Seeking experience on a Boost, FIPW, IDM and related problems.
#1
Seeking experience on a Boost, FIPW, IDM and related problems.
Hey guys it's been a while since I've been on here. Meaning I limped my way through most of the winter! Now, previously, about 7 months or so it seems, I was having some problems and used my DP Infinity to take a few log files for Tugly....
I have emailed him and hope he can chime in with more info, as he understands the diagnostics side almost better then me... But basically, I am having a "Stinky Spike", a point where my FIPW spikes.
To start off, I was noticing when I step on the fuel pedal I turn on my SES light. As soon as I let off the pedal the light goes away. I pulled my codes and noticed a "IDM codes detected".
I also had a Boost pressure problem. With a DP 100hp tune, or any tune for that matter, I cannot get past 16 psi on my Manifold Gauge Pressure. I searched all over for a boost fooler ad suggested and I don't have one. I also pulled the Red Line off the waste gate and capped it, that was a little help.
I noticed when I dropped my tranny for a new clutch I saw some soot from the top up-pipes. I also get turbo surge when not hauling a load. Now recently I sometimes have a code pertaining to Low Turbocharger Voltage.
I'm not sure if this is all related or not, but I have saved some money over winter, keep in mind it's not ALOT..
But... I'm wanting to tackle the issue. Starting with the first, most important, whether it's further testing to know what parts to throw at it, or whatever it is...
Can someone give me a breakdown of what's going on here issue wise, whether it's all related or not, or how many seperate problems I'm looking at, ect ect.... Anything that can help.
I have the previous log files, and I can also take new logs, or provide any information I need to. Below I will post a few things Rich has said so you can understand.
-IPR is a valve that closes to make back pressure in the HPOP - this back pressure is your ICP. Oil demand is FIPW (how long the injector is demanded to add fuel at a given pressure), and I mentioned in the PM that 3 ms is maximum before things go askew.
Look at time 55993 to time 59049 (lines 2704 to 28225) in your data, this is where I made a graph because it's "the show". At one point, things are working in your favor - until the FIPW passes 3.0 ms. You'll notice the IPR jumps to compensate for the weird demand for oil, and the HPOP delivers the ICP as requested - but now it's working hard. By the way, at 40% IPR, your ICP should be about 2900 PSI, you will see that the second you let off the throttle and the FIPW drops.
Moving on... once the FIPW reaches 3.9 ms, the HPOP says "up yours" and starts to lag behind, while the IPR is cracking the whip on the HPOP with ever-higher duty cycle. This pattern continues until you let off the throttle, as I mentioned above - then the demand drops and the ICP spikes. The HPOP says "Whoa, nobody's using the oil I'm sending!" and the IPR says "Crap! You need to let me know when this is going to happen! It takes a while to spin the dump valve open to let off all this pressure." That is a classic "Stinky Spike".
I was also told by someone this:
- After looking over your log some, I see at least a couple issues. Your HPOP is not keeping up with the demand. At one point you where hitting 89% duty cycle and your ICP was at 1554 psi. This is really bad. Ideally you want to be at 2600+ psi with a duty cycle below 40%. Your boost is also low, hitting a max of 16psi. You should be around 26psi.
You either have a worn HPOP or worn injectors, or possibly a combination of both.
From there I mentioned my EBay was unplugged., after plugging it in I was told:
-That was a huge improvement. You only got up to 14 PSI boost, but that's far better than 8. I also noticed your HPOP stepped up to the plate - right in line with spec. I noticed your EBP was in line with your MAP, showing little efficiency loss.
Lastly I was told to run the test again with EBPV plugged in, red line capped, 100hp tune, and my foot about 3/4 throttle. Response was:
-
I looked at your 100 HP tune - what a loud, creepy, smoky hot sumbich. How can you hear your own thoughts in the cab? I don't see data similar to that unless I'm pulling a steep grade, but I never see pulse widths like that. Do you have a 60 HP tune - or is the 80 HP the Daily Driver? I see you tried to stay out of the throttle, but the 100 HP tune is just too hot to pull back on the reigns.
I think we found your boost problem. You have a malfunctioning boost fooler on there. You will either find a wire spliced to your MAP signal wire (passenger side), or the tube from the front of the spider will go to a device before it ends at the MAP sensor.
Needless to say, no boost footer was found.... And from there I got discouraged and gave up for the winter. But now I want to try to tackle it. With that info on hand does anyone have any suggestions, hints, ideas, anything I can do to help sort this out? I'm seeking opinions and advice. I can run new logs, or send the final logs, anything I need to do. I'm new to this kind of work on my truck. Diagnostic troubleshooting. All special tests have come back good tho, buzz, cylinder contribution, koer, koeo, everything.... Im stumped.
I have emailed him and hope he can chime in with more info, as he understands the diagnostics side almost better then me... But basically, I am having a "Stinky Spike", a point where my FIPW spikes.
To start off, I was noticing when I step on the fuel pedal I turn on my SES light. As soon as I let off the pedal the light goes away. I pulled my codes and noticed a "IDM codes detected".
I also had a Boost pressure problem. With a DP 100hp tune, or any tune for that matter, I cannot get past 16 psi on my Manifold Gauge Pressure. I searched all over for a boost fooler ad suggested and I don't have one. I also pulled the Red Line off the waste gate and capped it, that was a little help.
I noticed when I dropped my tranny for a new clutch I saw some soot from the top up-pipes. I also get turbo surge when not hauling a load. Now recently I sometimes have a code pertaining to Low Turbocharger Voltage.
I'm not sure if this is all related or not, but I have saved some money over winter, keep in mind it's not ALOT..
But... I'm wanting to tackle the issue. Starting with the first, most important, whether it's further testing to know what parts to throw at it, or whatever it is...
Can someone give me a breakdown of what's going on here issue wise, whether it's all related or not, or how many seperate problems I'm looking at, ect ect.... Anything that can help.
I have the previous log files, and I can also take new logs, or provide any information I need to. Below I will post a few things Rich has said so you can understand.
-IPR is a valve that closes to make back pressure in the HPOP - this back pressure is your ICP. Oil demand is FIPW (how long the injector is demanded to add fuel at a given pressure), and I mentioned in the PM that 3 ms is maximum before things go askew.
Look at time 55993 to time 59049 (lines 2704 to 28225) in your data, this is where I made a graph because it's "the show". At one point, things are working in your favor - until the FIPW passes 3.0 ms. You'll notice the IPR jumps to compensate for the weird demand for oil, and the HPOP delivers the ICP as requested - but now it's working hard. By the way, at 40% IPR, your ICP should be about 2900 PSI, you will see that the second you let off the throttle and the FIPW drops.
Moving on... once the FIPW reaches 3.9 ms, the HPOP says "up yours" and starts to lag behind, while the IPR is cracking the whip on the HPOP with ever-higher duty cycle. This pattern continues until you let off the throttle, as I mentioned above - then the demand drops and the ICP spikes. The HPOP says "Whoa, nobody's using the oil I'm sending!" and the IPR says "Crap! You need to let me know when this is going to happen! It takes a while to spin the dump valve open to let off all this pressure." That is a classic "Stinky Spike".
I was also told by someone this:
- After looking over your log some, I see at least a couple issues. Your HPOP is not keeping up with the demand. At one point you where hitting 89% duty cycle and your ICP was at 1554 psi. This is really bad. Ideally you want to be at 2600+ psi with a duty cycle below 40%. Your boost is also low, hitting a max of 16psi. You should be around 26psi.
You either have a worn HPOP or worn injectors, or possibly a combination of both.
From there I mentioned my EBay was unplugged., after plugging it in I was told:
-That was a huge improvement. You only got up to 14 PSI boost, but that's far better than 8. I also noticed your HPOP stepped up to the plate - right in line with spec. I noticed your EBP was in line with your MAP, showing little efficiency loss.
Lastly I was told to run the test again with EBPV plugged in, red line capped, 100hp tune, and my foot about 3/4 throttle. Response was:
-
I looked at your 100 HP tune - what a loud, creepy, smoky hot sumbich. How can you hear your own thoughts in the cab? I don't see data similar to that unless I'm pulling a steep grade, but I never see pulse widths like that. Do you have a 60 HP tune - or is the 80 HP the Daily Driver? I see you tried to stay out of the throttle, but the 100 HP tune is just too hot to pull back on the reigns.
I think we found your boost problem. You have a malfunctioning boost fooler on there. You will either find a wire spliced to your MAP signal wire (passenger side), or the tube from the front of the spider will go to a device before it ends at the MAP sensor.
Needless to say, no boost footer was found.... And from there I got discouraged and gave up for the winter. But now I want to try to tackle it. With that info on hand does anyone have any suggestions, hints, ideas, anything I can do to help sort this out? I'm seeking opinions and advice. I can run new logs, or send the final logs, anything I need to do. I'm new to this kind of work on my truck. Diagnostic troubleshooting. All special tests have come back good tho, buzz, cylinder contribution, koer, koeo, everything.... Im stumped.
#2
As I mentioned in the email, step one is getting the truck to 100% in stock tune. You have "IDM codes detected", so that's a good place to start. We need a KOEO, a cylinder contribution test, and a buzz test to find that bugger. If you have a connection issue, then the UVCH link in my signature would be a good click.
Once the IDM thing is put to bed, then it's that soot on your up pipes. If you're looking for more boost, you don't want the drive pressure to sneak out the back for a smoke.
Once the IDM thing is put to bed, then it's that soot on your up pipes. If you're looking for more boost, you don't want the drive pressure to sneak out the back for a smoke.
#3
I'll start with the boost.
You should be seeing a max of @ 17 psi in stock. 22 psi with s chip and the wastegate line capped. Without a boost fooler or the chip compensating for the boost the PCM will defuel the engine at 22 psi to prevent an "over boost" condition.
You mentioned soot around the up pipes and your boost #'s look low. Check the up pipe bolts, lower and upper- they can work loose over time. The black soot is an indication of s boost leak.
What were the exact trouble codes?
You should be seeing a max of @ 17 psi in stock. 22 psi with s chip and the wastegate line capped. Without a boost fooler or the chip compensating for the boost the PCM will defuel the engine at 22 psi to prevent an "over boost" condition.
You mentioned soot around the up pipes and your boost #'s look low. Check the up pipe bolts, lower and upper- they can work loose over time. The black soot is an indication of s boost leak.
What were the exact trouble codes?
#4
P1316 - IDM Codes Detected.
The Turbocharger voltage code comes and goes. I'll scan it again and see if it's there.
I will also preform the tests you mentioned Rich, and show the results. I believe from before the only thing I ever got from those were repeats of the basic general origional codes. (P1316).
I can also preform the test on the UVCH-10 pin thread if suggested. All I do with that is remove/seperate the connectors, (Left and Right 10 pins + 42 pin) and ohm out the matching/corresponding injector pins from the two connectors correct? (Like when I did my Glow Plug ohm test sort of?).
The Turbocharger voltage code comes and goes. I'll scan it again and see if it's there.
I will also preform the tests you mentioned Rich, and show the results. I believe from before the only thing I ever got from those were repeats of the basic general origional codes. (P1316).
I can also preform the test on the UVCH-10 pin thread if suggested. All I do with that is remove/seperate the connectors, (Left and Right 10 pins + 42 pin) and ohm out the matching/corresponding injector pins from the two connectors correct? (Like when I did my Glow Plug ohm test sort of?).
#5
On the way to work. Didn't have time to run the specific tests yet, but I checked SES codes.
I can't get the Turbocharger voltage one to pop, but I have the one listed above,
P1316 Injector Driver Module codes detected
and
P0603 Internal Control Module keep alive memory (KAM) error.
I have my new multimeter in the truck waiting and after 5 days of 40-50 degree weather, now snow flakes start falling. Hopefully this weekend is nice.
I can't get the Turbocharger voltage one to pop, but I have the one listed above,
P1316 Injector Driver Module codes detected
and
P0603 Internal Control Module keep alive memory (KAM) error.
I have my new multimeter in the truck waiting and after 5 days of 40-50 degree weather, now snow flakes start falling. Hopefully this weekend is nice.
#7
Here's something that Rich & Pete put together troubleshoot the IDM codes. Basically you need to:
Clear out the trouble codes
Run a KOEO test and recheck for codes
P0603- Internal Control Module KAM Error - normal when a chip is installed.
Injector buzz test - see if any sound different from the rest.
Ohm out injectors at the 42 pin connector, this will test the wiring from the 42 pin connector to the injectors.
The injector system has 2 banks. Each bank has a common high (hot) side labeled "Driver's side supply" & "Passenger side supply" on the photo below, and individual ground wires (low side). It's a closed loop from the IDM, to the injector, and back to the IDM.
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#8
I ran the tests a couple times on lunch break.
Buzz test:
Found 0 codes
KOEO:
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor / Circuit High (my intake)
P0475: Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P0605: Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) error
KOER:
P1464: A/C Demand Out of Self Test Range
P0541: Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low (my air delete mod)
Cyl:
Same codes as "KOER"
What is my Exhaust Pressure Control Valve caused by? And what are the P0605 and P1464 codes meaning? Is this any help?
Buzz test:
Found 0 codes
KOEO:
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor / Circuit High (my intake)
P0475: Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P0605: Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) error
KOER:
P1464: A/C Demand Out of Self Test Range
P0541: Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low (my air delete mod)
Cyl:
Same codes as "KOER"
What is my Exhaust Pressure Control Valve caused by? And what are the P0605 and P1464 codes meaning? Is this any help?
#9
#11
I ran the tests a couple times on lunch break. P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor / Circuit High (my intake)
P0475: Exhaust Pressure Control Valve P0605: Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) error KOER: P1464: A/C Demand Out of Self Test Range P0541: Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low (my air delete mod) Cyl:
Same codes as "KOER" What is my Exhaust Pressure Control Valve caused by? And what are the P0605 and P1464 codes meaning? Is this any help?
P0475: Exhaust Pressure Control Valve P0605: Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) error KOER: P1464: A/C Demand Out of Self Test Range P0541: Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low (my air delete mod) Cyl:
Same codes as "KOER" What is my Exhaust Pressure Control Valve caused by? And what are the P0605 and P1464 codes meaning? Is this any help?
Looking at the codes you've listed, there appears to me a electrical anomaly in the wiring. either 42 Pin Connection or UVCH connections, or both.
The diagram posted will enable you to check for resistance / open in the circuit.
Listed are some Sensor values for comparison for your troubleshooting. The voltage baselines are known good and should help identify the path to seek for correction.
echo=on
AP: 5 volts in, 0.5-0.7 volts at idle, 4.5 volts at WOT. PID: AP
BARO: 5 volts in, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases.
CMP: high, 12 volts, low, 1.5 volts.
EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi
EOT: 5.0 volts in, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)
EPR: Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output: For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load, then reapplies the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises.
IAT: 5 volts in, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F.
ICP: volts in, 1.0volt@580psi, and 3.22volts@2520psi.
EXBP should be 10-15psi with EBPV closed and not exceed 45psi at WOT Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube.
IDM: 110 volt signal to the injectors. Grounds each injector as fuel is required for that cylinder. Fuel Pulse width is increased to deliver more fuel. The IDM sends a feedback signal to the PCM for fault detection.
IVS: 0 volts at idle, 12 volts off idle. PID: IVS (off/on)
MAP: Frequency output; 111Hz / 14.7 psi, 130Hz / 20psi, 167Hz / 30psi.
echo=off
Edit: Also, do you have a chip or tuner installed while performing the tests? The results seem to indicate such.
#12
#13
I took all these scans with my DP Tuner's "Infinity". And son of B, now that you brought it to my attention, I forgot to set it back to stock tune settings before I ran these tests....
I guess I will be out there trying them again haha. Does it matter when I do these tests the temperature? Like right now my trucks been sitting and it snowed a little last night, so it's rather cold out. Do I want to do them on a cold engine, or warm engine after I've warmed it up?
I guess I will be out there trying them again haha. Does it matter when I do these tests the temperature? Like right now my trucks been sitting and it snowed a little last night, so it's rather cold out. Do I want to do them on a cold engine, or warm engine after I've warmed it up?
#14
I took all these scans with my DP Tuner's "Infinity". And son of B, now that you brought it to my attention, I forgot to set it back to stock tune settings before I ran these tests....
I guess I will be out there trying them again haha. Does it matter when I do these tests the temperature? Like right now my trucks been sitting and it snowed a little last night, so it's rather cold out. Do I want to do them on a cold engine, or warm engine after I've warmed it up?
I guess I will be out there trying them again haha. Does it matter when I do these tests the temperature? Like right now my trucks been sitting and it snowed a little last night, so it's rather cold out. Do I want to do them on a cold engine, or warm engine after I've warmed it up?
You can also monitor the following PERDELS for comparison with a warm engine.
V-PWR 10.5 VDC Minimum.
RPM 100 RPM Minimum (0 - CMP Suspect)
ICP 500 PSI or 3.4 MPAM Minimum
ICPv (KOEO) Spec 0.20v - 0.30v
FUEL PW: 1 MS - 6 MS ( <1 / >6 IDM Suspect)
DC% - Cranking NTE 20% / 65% is Closed. (IPR Suspect)
RPM - Low RPM could be an indication of starting/ charging system problems
No RPM indicated with the engine cranking - could be CMP circuit fault, check for DTC’s.
ICP - A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings, or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.
Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14%
5. FUEL PW - Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or internal IDM failure.