Have a 74 100 with 360 2v. Basically stock with few miles but the oil leak has driven me crazy enough to make the fix. More than a minor annoyance. Garage wanted $800 to fix. Have read many treads and have posted a few in the past. Great feedback and much appreciated. The stock 80 lb manifold has me a bit spooked. Am planning on renting an engine hoist and dimple the front and back block surfaces with a hole punch to increase holding strength. The question is.....do I have to remove the water pump? I will replace the bypass coolant hose but is there enough room wrestling that beast of a manifold with an engine hoist and lowering and connecting the new bypass hose at the same time? You folks know what you are doing and have been there, done that. Also concerned about getting the distributor back in with the same tooth connection. Just one tooth off will make a difference. Thanks in advance for your input. Regards.

 

The water pump need not be removed.

A hoist isn't necessary per se... it's awkward to handle alone but doable. Just make sure you have a good grip and solid footing. In fact, you could span a 2x4 across the fenders so you can rest the lunker on it before repositioning yourself.

Set the engine at TDC and then mark the rotor's position on the engine and relative to the distributor. When installing, back up the rotor about 10° and work the rotor into the spiral cut teeth of the camshaft.

Upon reassembly, insert and seat the distributor to index the manifold before tightening the intake bolts.

 

Thanks HIO. I appreciate the feedback. I will be feeling the pain over the next few weeks after the honey do list is worked on. I will try to remember to post the results for others who might follow the tread later

 

Not sure why youd have an oil leak on the intake, guess i really only know the 460! Which only splash oil coming up through the block webbing holes could somehow magically get out the intake seal..... maybe 360s are different from every other v8 ive worked on, not sure.

Water pump can stay where it is, but cheap to replace if it hasnt been in a while.

A good trick is just cut off the water pump by pass hose so its not in the way, pry loose the intake, use some bolts in the intake with some large c clamps for handles and it wont be too hard to just lift it out. Just did my 460 and the stock cast iron intake wasnt too bad, the heads were far worse

cheers

 

I am not arguing with HIO, he knows what he is doing. My suggestion is to pull the water pump, which has more validity if you are doing it in the truck with the hood on. My reasoning is that when you put the manifold back on with the water pump still/already installed, you will have to lower that 80lb manifold at an angle to get that short piece of a () bypass hose lined up and not smear the sealant bead that you have put on the forward china wall of the block. I will admit that I have not been lucky enough to change the manifold using a cherry picker. Stop, Look, and Decide what you are going to do before you do it.


GOOD LUCK


djfins, an FE has twice the intake manifold and half the head of a 460!

 

i helped an old guy with a galaxie 352 3 on the tree last summer it had a 2 bbl and i had an old 4bbl he wanted your not jokeing they are close to 80lbs, but point is at the same time i was replaceing head stuff on my truck it has a 390 and i have an Aluminum intake and after lifting it compared to that old 4bbl, i would stick to Al stuff if i were you i would upgrade to a 4bbl and al intake( if you can)



and djfins the FE intake is super heavy, but the heads are light.

 

Thanks. Appreciate the input.

 

Proof:

And for your info, an Edelbock Performer PN 2105 weighs 22 pounds.

 

I haven't had an iron intake on my truck. But I've removed some from engines. I have been swapping aluminum intakes around lately tho, so it's all fresh in my mind.
If it were me, and I was removing a cast iron intake I'd remove the hood. Just trace the edge of the hinge at the hood to make alignment easier.
Then I would...drain coolant.
Remove fuel line while coolant is draining. Turn engine to tdc with rotor button pointing near #1 on dizzy cap. #1 Piston will be at the top of it's stroke. Remove plug to verify if needed. Hell, remove all 8 to make engine easier to turn if you don't have a remote switch. Once you have tdc, make a line where the pointer is aimed. Then mark the dizzy base and manifold to line that up easier. Disconnect - coil wire. Remove dizzy hold down bolt. Out comes the distributor. Disconnect carb linkage. Take the carb off the manifold if you think that might give you more room. One less thing in the way.
Remove upper coolant hose. Now is a good time to replace those hoses and tstat if it has been a while. Water pump is up to you. Try it witiut removing the water pump. You might feel confident in installing intake with the pump on the engine. I haven't taken mine off. Unhook coil wires and any other wires you have running along the intake suck as temp sender + coil wire. Anything that could be in the way.
Pull valve covers. Remove rocker arm stands. Push rods. Try to keep them in order.
Next remove intake bolts. Pull that heavy item out of there with something other than your back.
Clean everything. When you get gaskets...use the cork ends seals. Know why? Cause they don't leak if you do it right. Rtv instead of those seals makes a mess, can still leak, and when you go back to do it again you have a bigger mess to clean up. Just my opinion. Anyway. Dimple the sealing area if you'd like. I haven't. And have no leaks. I'm also using those felpro permaseal gaskets no one seems to like, they don't leak either. When you reassemble don't slide the intake around more than needed. Don't tighten the intake down until the dizzy is in the hole, helps to align the intake. Intake bolt torque is 35lb/ft. Rocker arm pedestal is 45lb/ft. And like I said, remove anything that could be in the way. And replace wear items while you have it down.
Hopefully that will help

 

with my experience with all my FE engines i have ran,raced,tortured, abused, and built it is very rarely the intake leaking or a rear main (which i hear all the time) 90% of the time it is the valve cover gaskets there is such a space between those back bolts and almost everyone over torques them (guilty myself a few times) the valve cover doesn't seal and she leaks like crazy i would say before you worry about the intake make sure and verify it isn't the valve covers with any reason of doubt $15 isn't a big loss for a good set of corks its just 10 bolts (5 per side) and removing plug wires compared to the water pump gaskets, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets (which your buying either way) and the RTV silicone...... but if your gonna swap an aluminum on there then hell yeah go for it but i still all too often see money wasted for nothing when all it is was a simple solution

 

Great input. Thanks.

 

Hopefully the oil pump shaft will stay in place when you pull the distributor? If not and come reinstall time if the shaft moves around to much when trying to get the dizzy back in try this to hold the oil shaft in an upright position so the distributor will go right back in. Dab a small amount of grease or vasoline on it with a long screwdriver where it goes in the oil pump.

Hope this makes sense?

 

Sorry wrong thread