Sorry it's taken so long for me to get back.
I tested for a boost leak and couldn't hear any air leaks and sprayed everything with Soapy water and couldn't find any leaks. I then changed the map sensor, (while changing the map sensor I checked the hose from the intake to map sensor and it wasn't clogged or damaged). I also put a new cam sensor in. I unhooked the battery for a few minutes so it would reset the check engine light and as soon as I turned the key on and started the check engine light was already on again. I have a po603 and po237 code now. Po603 code is new I figure that's because I unhooked the battery. Po237 is still there tho? And still smokes, surges at idle sometimes, and feels weak haven't put a load behind it yet tho, any ideas?

 

Time to troubleshoot the MAP sensor. P0237 means the PCM is not seeing any signal from the MAP. This could be a bad ground wire or a a bad VRef (+5 volts) wire.

Brn-Wht VRef + 5 Volts
Lt Grn-Blk MAP signal out
Gry-Red Ground

You can't really measure MAP Signal out unless you have a digital meter which can monitor HZ signal. If you do it should indicate ~ 110 HZ key on engine off depending on altitude. Make sure you do have the the 5 volts and Ground though. Also make sure you have the correct MAP sensor as some of them are analog and not digital. You would not be the first one on here to fall into that trap.

 

I just replaced the map sensor hoping that would fix it. How would I know the difference between a digital and analog map sensor? But it looks like I'll be testing for ground, 5v ref, tommorow night thanks for your help btw yall have helped tremendously

 

Post the part number of the MAP sensor.

 

Okay, I pulled wiring diagrams and I have no power going to the map sensor (key on engine off) and I have a ground. Ally fuses are good, what else is on the circuit with the map sensor?
Correct me if I'm wrong but brown/white wire is ground
Green/black is signal
Red/grey is power should read 5v

 

Alright I started tracing wires and found I did not have a 5v reference any where. Just out of curiosity I pulled out my computer and took my programmer off and reinstalled the computer. I also installed a boost gauge and replaced the v band clamp going from the turbo to the Y pipe. It feels more gutless now without my programmer but it quit smoking and my check engine light is off. I have to have the truck almost matted to get it to move and I'm only getting about 5 to 8 psi boost until I floor it. When I floor it in 2nd gear and hold it it don't build boost until like 2800rpms then the Rpms shoot up fast and the boost comes in. Could I have a bad throttle sensor? Or is this normal.?

 

According to my diagram ...

Brn/Wht is VRef
Gry/Red is Gnd

 

Interesting, I pulled my diagram off of pro demand at work

 

97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual

Go to the "Electronic Control System Diagnostics" and in that section find MAP Sensor. In there it has troubleshooting with wire colors.