So...at idle, voltmeter says 11.98. And the charge idiot light randomly goes on off.

Ideas?

 

What is the alternator putting out? I have no idea what the voltage regulators are on these guys but I think it should be in the 13 to 14 volt area, if its lower than that I would say the alternator is going south.

Also check your wiring, I had some electrical issues back in December and needed to put new ground clamps on the cables, I was surprised to find a fairly large amount of corrosion on the ends of the cables.

Baatzy

 

Always test the Alternator at the B+ Post on the rear of the alternator.

Here are some troubleshooting processes.

echo=on

Tools: DVOM, Carbon Pile Tester or Similar Device, Hydometer.

BATTERIES:

Charging system problems often come to you as a "no-start" complaint.

The battery will have discharged and the starter won't crank the engine.

The first step is to test the battery and charge it if necessary.

No-Load Test:
Voltage Percent Charge
12.60V - 12.72V 100%
12.45V - 12.71V 75%
12.30V - 12.44 V 50%
12.15V - 12.29V 25%
(Readings obtained at 80°F)

1. Ripple Voltage Ripple voltage or (AC voltage) can be measured by switching your DMM to AC and connecting the black lead to a good ground and the red lead to the "BAT" terminal (B+ Post) on the back of the alternator, (not at the battery).

2. A good alternator should measure less than .5 VAC with the engine running. A higher reading indicates damaged alternator diodes.

ALTERNATOR LEAKAGE TEST:

Alternator Leakage Current to check alternator diode leakage, connect the multimeter in series with the alternator output terminal when the car is not running. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most;
more often, it will be on the order of 0.5 milliamps. Use care when disconnecting the alternator output wire; make sure the battery is disconnected first.
echo=off

 

Tom,

I checked at the batteries....I'll go back and check at the "B" post. The connections look good. But looks can be deceiving. Batteries are maybe 2 years old from NAPA.

The alt does have 230k on it.

 

Pretty sure it'll end up being the alternator Dan. I had the same flickering battery light for a while, and could see my voltage was slowly suffering. Headlights would dim, coinciding with the battery light flicker. I'm on my third "lifetime" alternator from the Irish parts store. Unfortunately, when the alternator finally went totally south, I tried cranking with low voltage, and it burned out the starter. Luckily, that's on the "lifetime" warranty from the same store! That'll make starter #4 I believe. They happily trade them out without question.

 

Montanasteve,

I'm in Ellensburg for the next week....flying, sorry...DC power is sold out on the 170amp unit. ...I'll wait as long as I can to score that unit.

 

Wow! Don't see many that old. It certainly doesn't owe you anything. Considered having it rebuilt? The only problem is most rebuilders use the same parts as the counter stores do. There's got to be someone who uses American Made Parts.

There is only one Motorcycle Electric Company left who uses 100% USA, Cycle Electric. They make everything in house. Guess when the patriarchs die off they'll be foreign too.

 

3 Alternators and 4 Starters?

Lifetime warranties are great until you figure in the down time and labor hours.

Ever consider using a biased diode to protect the Alternator and a fender mounted biased Solenoid for the Starter?

That's a lot of parts. Lifetime warranty or not.