FTE is an overflowing crankcase of info:

Electric Fans/Cooling Upgrades
Ford Muscle: Lincoln Mark VIII Retrofit
Fordification Thread: Lincoln Mark VIII/T-bird Two-Speed Fan Installation
Pro-Touring.com Thread: Mark VIII fan & SPAL Controller
Hollister Road Electric Fan Components
The Fan Man - Electric Fans & Controllers
Nasty Z28 Thread: Budget Dual Electric Fan Controller Set Up
FTE Thread: akforceten's 1972 F250
Centech Fan Controllers

A JY option for controlling two fans is to use this dual relay from a Volvo... you'll need two temp switches.. a hi and lo. the BL and WH/bk wires are the ground controllers to which the switches will connect. It's sourced from 94-97 850 Volvo vehicles (PN 1398845). Alternatively, a single, dual temp switch: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/v...-swap-1373350/

 

Thank you for all the links and everything. I have been reading through those from the sticky. There is so much good info there. Didnt want to come across as though i hadnt read anything about it i just had some specific questions before i started cutting

 

Well ive got all the wiring and harness straight and ready to go so thanks for all the help on that.

The frustrating part now is i cant get a damn 3G from my local yards that will pass a bench test!

At first i got one from a 93 Taurus but that had the aluminum nub on the back that wouldnt clear the head and it was clocked the wrong way for my 410 FE. I took that one back and got one out of a 94 Thunderbird V6. Clocked correctly and was in much better shape. That failed the bench test. Returned it and went to another yard and got one off of a 97 T-Bird. Also failed the bench test so i returned it and went home.

No more thunderbirds that im aware of in the area. I have also heard the 94-95 Mustang 3.8 is clocked correctly but the only ones are completely stripped down. So now i gotta go back for the 4th time and try again. I guess i will have to just grab one off of the Taurus and cut that nub off.

I really didnt want to have to clock it if i didnt have to but it seems i will. Can anyone give me some more info on how?

 

I also had a problem with the back of the alt contacting the head. I bought a low mount bracket from an eBay seller that fixed the problem perfectly. If you search, (two piece low mount ford fe). It was an easy install and the clocking is opposite of the upper mount so the alt from a 95 Tarus is correct.

 

Thanks for that i searched it and he has them for $64. It is good to know about but i am going for low buck upgrade with this. After all the connections and alternator itll be about $35. Got my electric fan for $25. Also i use the truck off road and dont want the alternator any lower (closer to water and debris) than it has to be.

Correct me if im wrong but can i just flip my brackets so the top will be at the bottom and the taurus 3G clocking will be correct? It seems like for the most part thats what that ebay kit was, just extended

 

I got a 3G off of a Windstar with that nub... all that was required quality time with a hack saw.

On clocking, it's pretty evident what needs to be done after removing the case bolts. Fear is the mind killer.. just do it.

 

Ok so once i have the 3 small bolts out and tap off the back of the case, do i need to also tap off the black part in the middle of the two case halves to move everything around? Havent actually gotten this far because i dont have one right now

 

Here's how-to with pictures that are worth a thousand keystrokes..: How To Reclock an Alternator - FSB Forums

 

The part in the middle of the alternator case contains the diodes. DON'T pry on the case or on the middle to pull the case halves apart. Put the (3) small diameter case screws in and go around tapping on them with something like a plastic tipped hammer. This will eventually separate the case from the diodes without damage to the diodes.

If you pry on the case and hear a cracking noise, it means you have done damage to the diodes.

 

Thank you HIO thats exactly the link ive been looking for! All the others i found didnt have much for pictures, if any. I will grab one from a taurus because most of the windstars at my yard seem to be the side mount 3Gs. There arent many to start with but there is a surplus of taurus'. It would be alot easier if there was an advance or autozone next to the yard i go to but theres not anywhere nearby. So i basically have to go almost home before i can get it tested. Its a pain i just want a good one!

 

It worth pointing out the last post in the referenced link

"You don't actually have to disassemble the case. If you remove the pulley & push the shaft rearward thru the front bearing, the front case can spin while everything else stays with the rear case. Bolt them back together, remount the pulley, and you're done."

For me I am still trying to get the nut loose to remove pulley.

 

Not sure why you would do it that way instead of rotating the front and rear case halves. You don't have to to completely remove the rear case, just back far enough to clock it. Pushing the shaft rearward thru the front bearing sounds like a pain to me, while removing 3 easy to get to screws and rotating the case is easy.

 

[QUOTE=maytea;15244878]It worth pointing out the last post in the referenced link

For me I am still trying to get the nut loose to remove pulley.[/QUOTE]

It's waaay better to use an impact gun... but:

DISCLAIMER: Attempt at your own risk!

Insert a screwdriver through a hole that is against a thick part of the case to prevent the pulley from turning as you loosen the nut.

 

I tried impact with no luck. Pulley just spins even w hose wrapped tightly arround pulley.

Any other options to hold pulley while using an impact?

 

You could always try to clamp on the pulley in a vise(with something soft between the vise jaw and the pulley). Just don't clamp too hard on it.