Hi all. I bought a '93 F150 a few weeks ago. 6cyl, E4OD. I've never owned a Ford or a truck before, so I've got a lot to learn. When I bought it, it had new distributor, plug wires, and plugs. Also had the alternator replaced at some point, but not recently.

I drove it for a few weeks without incident, other than a weird stall if I went from D to R (like if I were backing in to a parking space. if I parked front first, came back later and reversed, no issues).

The other day though, I got in and whenever I hit the accelerator, it would bog down and almost die (or would actually cut off). Starts and idles, just pressing the throttle kills it. I have a code reader, and pulled codes yesterday. I got
KOEO : 634 - lever position sensor voltage higher or lower than expected,
KOER : 213 - SPOUT circuit open
538 - Invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (which is weird because I wasn't in the truck during the test)

Any ideas? Any of these relevant or are they red herrings?
Thanks in advance

 

Wait till subford replies. He helped me in the past. When you get it worked out you will love this truck

 

Thanks. I'm open to any others, too.

I think I'll start with the SPOUT code. I assume the module or whatever is somewhere near the distributor?

 

Did some sleuthing and found the spout jumper. Pulled it, but no change. Truck still ~dies when throttle is pressed. Tested wires, no shorts.

Reading about the spout led me to the PIP sensor in the distributor, but after looking promising, it seems a bad one causes a different problem, so back to square 1.
Starting to think maybe the problem is not one that would throw a code

 

old fuel filter or pump failing in tank? Just a thought

 

634 means the MLP sensor could be out of adjustment, or faulty. Try adjusting first. It's on the driver's side of the trans, right behind the shift linkage.

E4OD MLP adjustment? - FSB Forums

Here's some info about the spout circuit (if you haven't found it already)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cuit-open.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ease-help.html

As far as the stalling issue, it may or may not be related to the above codes. Probably best to test fuel pressure, and check for vacuum leaks.

 

Thank you.

The stalling issue is definitely the priority. Once I can get it on the road again I'll worry about tuning out the codes.

I hope to get to the vacuum check before the weekend. Anyone have a vacuum diagram for a 93 XL with the 4.9L + E4OD? My sticker is long gone.

 

I'd check/clean the IAC. Might be stuck and then you adding air (opening throttle blades) throws things so far lean it stalls. Could also cause/be related to your weirdness between D and R due to engine not returning to correct idle speed between load (D = load, N = no load, R = load)

 

Checked vacuum. All was good. Tried revving it really really slowly for friend to see if there was any change in vac. It ~worked to do that, and there wasn't any vacuum change. When he tried, he stalled it and now it won't turn over. Not sure if that's related or a new thing.
IAC on Sunday I hope. I'll swap it out and if that doesn't help, return it. I don't really like the throw parts at it approach, but it's relatively inexpensive and even if it doesn't work, I've eliminated something. Probably try a new TPS too, even though that has a code and I didn't get it. Can't hurt, also inexpensive.
After that, fuel pressure test.

 

You can check the IAC visually and test the TPS with a VOM instead of installing and returning (I'd be surprised, parts stores usually won't accept on return anything electrical) parts.

Why not check fuel pressure first? These are all tests you can perform in under an hour total.

 

Throwing parts at it without proper diagnosis is a frustrating endeavor, even if it is cheap.

I'm guessing you checked vacuum with a gauge, but did you check for leaks anywhere? Those old plastic vacuum lines get brittle, and break/leak really easily.

Everything on the truck is really simple to check. You can find out most of what you need to know with a dvom, vacuum gauge, carb cleaner spray (to check for vacuum leaks), a fuel pressure tester, and some jumper wires.

 

I did check with a gauge. If there were leaks, wouldn't it affect the gauge reading? I was right at 19 Hg and it stayed steady.



I'll rent the FP gauge from Oreillys.

mwilliamshs, I was planning on keeping the new TPS, but I'll check before buying on the IAC. Thanks

of course, now I have to get it to start again.

 

Did not go well today. Couldn't get the truck to turn over/crank at all. Tested voltage to starter solenoid, starter, and ignition wire to starter. All fine. tested battery, at 12.5volts. Pulled the starter, took it to Oreillys to test. tested good there too. Got a new battery and battery leads.
installed new leads, battery, and put the starter back in. Didn't notice we forgot to connect the ground to starter. Truck turned over and started, but sucked a lot of juice from battery. Reconnected the ground to starter, and no turn over/crank. Next I guess is replacing battery cables, and then a new ignition wire.

Also rented the fuel pressure tester from Oreilly's, but it didn't have the Ford shrader valve attachment. Neither did Autozone's. So that was a bust.

Checked the IAC and it looked fine/clean.

 

Is this the mlps?


If so, I need to take this bolt that holds the shifter linkage off to see if it's misaligned, right?

 

Yes and yes.