Hey there. I got a 79 f250 4x4. I want to put the 6" skyjacker lift kit on it, pure spring lift. Im gonna order everything else I need such as brake lines etc. But I need to know directly from the guys running this kit: do I need to have the driveshafts lengthened? I'll only be messing around with it offroad once in awhile, nothing severe.

I'm sure this has been asked before, but after some research I couldn't find a direct answer, only some guesses.

I just need some answers. Anyone who has installed this kit I'd like your input. Pictures also welcome. Thanks a bunch

 

i dont think so...I put a 4 inch on my highboy,rear ds remained the same,added d60 up front which changed ds lenghth,You should be fine .

 

my 76 HB i would have had to lengthen front and rear with a 6' but, i dropped the transfer case 2' so i was fine. Being you dont have a separate mount TC, im pretty sure you will have to, IM NOT POSITIVE though. So let us know either way,thanks and post pic's of your truck before and after.

 

I have the 6" skyjacker. Didn't put it on myself. When I bought it, the driveshafts were not installed. I have a pretty decent 460 so planned on upgrading the driveshaft anyways. Had a new beefier one built which matched the needed length. Pretty sure it was overall longer then the stock shaft. The front one I hooked up the stock shaft. It had a little travel left in it but think I need the extended yoke for it to really be right.

 

I knew there was a reason why I took these pics. lol. I looked at my order sheet and the new shaft was built to be 67.25" center to center when vehicle was level and unloaded. First pic is installed. Last one is fully extended compared to stock shaft.

 

Could I get away with using the OE front and rear driveshafts temporarily ? do you know? thanks and thank you for the pictures as well

 

I put a 6" Skyjacker all spring lift on my 79 F250. Still had to use the rear OEM block....And used the axle rotation shims that came with the rear springs.

I did NOT have to lengthen either d/s.

Yes on drop pit man arm (NO on a steering block), adjustable steering link, all 3 longer brake lines (went with the Skyjacker steel braided ones) and axle vent lines.

Need to relocate the emergency brake cross member mount bracket like this guy did. KIKKUP

Order new u bolts kits (front and rear from Skyjacker also) and OR might as well do a front u-bolt flip too.

www.sky-manufacturing.com - Dana44FrontUboltFlipKit

 

You can run without the front shaft and just have a 2WD. Don't think I would advise running with a too short rear ds. Think it would prematurely wear the bearings out on your transfer case and or rear pinion. Maybe could even pull out of the yoke and drop as you were going down the road. Just my thoughts. Others may have different opinions or experience.

 

Once it is installed it will be stiff as hog hair and not allow for much flex initially. Do a suspension compression and full droop ck.

Mark the d/s slip yoke position with the truck in a static position and then compress and ck then un-load or jack up to full droop and ck amount left in the slip yoke.

Having a fork lift or a skid steer makes for a easy job of it. With the lift installed I would say a full droop ck would be the most important ck, looking to make sure you have enough spline in the yoke. Make sense?

 

Thank you for the information. So, basically use everything that comes with the kit and use all of the additional parts they recommend like drop pitman etc, and I should be ok when it comes to driveshaft. I do understand what you mean. I really just want to put this lift on and get by with the oe driveshaft if I can without screwing anything up. My problem is that I have nowhere around me locally that could extend a driveshaft for me and I don't have the time to do it myself anymore

 

Yes drop pitman arm, longer brake lines and adjustable steering link, it is fast and easy. And NO on a steering block IMO.

Look at the e brake angle iron bracket, easy made and done. Separate the cables at the adjustment point and drop below the crossmember and just make the bracket. Make sure you drill the new holes small enough to let the cable lock in the bracket like it should. Do not brake the lock tabs removing the round cable guide part.

I personally had no d/s slip yoke issues, but I have read on here of other that have. Ck the clearance between the u joint cap and the flange. The lift can change the pinion angle and that can be a u joint killer. Use the rear shims you should be ok back there.

Also remember longer shocks?

What Ohio does not have any speed shops, 4 wheel offroad shops, tractor pull hot rod shops? Drag race places, welding shops?

 

Ok I understand. Thank you for clarifying. I suppose I'll find out when I actually put the kit on somewhere in the future.

Not really any places in my neck of the woods, might end up having to drive a little while out somewhere. we have a couple welding shops but they 'don't specialize' in things like that I guess.

I also find myself needing some odds and ends parts for my dents once in awhile. I understand you might be able to hook me up in the future. Don't got much to pick from on Craigslist or junkyards around here. I don't need anything in particular at the moment, but is it cool if I ask you in the future if need be?

thanks

 

By all means ask away...yes I do sale/ship a few parts...Trading Feedback - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

PM me what ever you need and I will get in my parts shed/parts lot or 3 parts trucks or hit my 5 mile away local JY with 70+ 73-79 trucks.

Any questions on the lift install, just ask. Like the mounting direction of the front springs matters. There is a length difference from the eyelet to the center pin.

 

right on. Thanks a bunch. Must be nice to have that giant dentside JY. My local yard has one 79 F250 thats beat to hell and one 79 Bronco. I'd love to visit that JY of yours.

 

Ask any and all questions on the install, biggest thing, SAFETY! I used a over head HD chain lift to hold ol red in place to do that lift install. Try to do it on cement and use GOOD jack stands right behind the front spring shackle attachment point.

And a back up at the trans cross member. That was my set up for ol blue's 4" lift install. Front frame section needs to be very secure because you will be pulling, tugging, pushing, wrestling on it, to get them front springs in.

Leave the rear tires on and chalk both rear wheels. With the frame and the suspension un loaded and the front tires maybe 1" off the gnd, remove tires and then use smaller jack stands and a good floor jack to lower the axle from the springs.

Pull the calipers off and hang for now with a piece of wire from the frame and disconnect and remove the shocks all together. Tie rod fork (hammering force on your steering box output shaft ) or better to use a actual pitman arm gear puller (rent-able tool). I left the d/s connected helped keep the axle from rotating around.

Leave the front springs rear shackles in place where they connect to the frame. Insp the bushings very well, might be a great time to replace? I did red's lift by myself, sure helps to have a friend or 2.

For the rear springs the front connection point is easy, but the rear with the spring shackle can be a PITA. If your lower bolt is froze you have to remove the upper the frame can be in the way because of the direction they installed the bolts at the factory (from the frame out), nut is on outside....also great time to replace the shackle bushing. No bed made it easy to rotate the complete spring and shackle to get the other bolt out.

Pick a end and do it start to finish spring wise, then do the front steering stuff, then the brake lines, then the shocks. Have fun, take pics (we all love pics on here. Make it a build thread. And after an initial and test drive your u bolts will settle in and then loosen up. So torque ck at 25, 50, 75, 100 miles, they will loosen up like crazy. Even at 250.

You do know that Atlas has rear springs that will let you eliminate the need to reuse the rear block all together? http://www.atlassuspension.com/ford-performance.html