Does anyone know if the subwoofer from a 2011-2014 F250 will fit in a 2015 F250?

Anyone have an idea as to what the internal volume is on these?

I'm looking for a very clean subwoofer install on the right side behind the rear seat....and this looks like a pretty good option. I want to get a factory subwoofer box and put my own sub in it, but need to match the sub to the box. I'll install my own external amp too...

Not looking to blow out the neighbors windows, just get better bass for anyone inside the truck.

 

2008superduty
He claims they will fit a 2015. I know they fit '11's - 13's first hand.

 

The factory sub box sits behind passenger side. I'm doing the same mod. Ordered amp, installing this WE.

 

Hmm, I've seen people measure the volume using liter bottles of water...filling it up.

Don't think you'd be up for that?? <---Joking, sort of.

Let us know how it goes and what you find! Pics...lots of them!

Do you have a thread started on this already??

 

Getting enough low frequency output from a single (shallow mount) 8" driver in an enclosure as small as the factory unit will be tough. Being behind the rear seat significantly further limits usable output.

I understand your not looking to be heard a block away, but it may be hard to do much better (better as in more SPL and low bass) than the factory setup given that same box, regardless of how much power you feed the sub.

I would estimate the internal volume around 1/3ft^3 or less.

start with the sub that has the largest Xmax (cone travel, in the magnetic gap), that is the single most important parameter if you want to move air with a single small driver. Shallow mount subs will have a small Xmax...

Good luck

 

Hmm.....What about a small spacer (to make up for depth in the box) and adding a port to it?

CP108LG-W3v3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio

These have pretty good reviews and don't look to be that big in terms of box size...

 

Sure a spacer can be used to get a deeper driver to fit.

Adding a port is another story. Unfortunately, the port volume goes up when box volume does down. For example, a 0.3 cuft box tuned to 40 hz needs a 4" diameter x 67" long port, which is bigger than the box itself. Even a 3" port is still 37" long. Judging from the picture of the port on the CP108LG, the tuning frequency is likely above 60hz, and therefore has limited out below that frequency. Trying to play tones below the tuning frequency will beat the crap out of the driver, the cone will flop around as it is acoustically unloaded.

JL make great products and I image for what it is, the CP108LG is decent.

10TW3-D4 will fit in a 0.5 box and is a good option, but not cheap.

 

8W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

According to that (spec tab, ported enclosure) they're tuning to 35hz... Interesting.....

I really do appreciate all your help, I've always picked matched components, and am trying something different this time...never put THIS much thought into all of it.

 

I think that the 8w3 may fit in the factory box and work OK with a 250W amp. As for the ported alignment, note the box size of 0.35 ft doesn't include the driver itself or the volume of the port. The port in this case is only 2", which is OK for a 8" driver. The smaller the port diameter the higher the air velocity and whistling noises. I would guess gross volume of ported box at about 0.45 cuft. Sealed box would be about 0.33 total. The port doesn't have to actually be inside the box either.

not cheap at $200 but it has decent xmax, resulting in 24in^3 of displacement/swept volume.

For comparision purposes, the 10TW3-D4 can move 67in^3, roughly the equivalent of three, 8w3v3's. My rockford shallow P3SD2-10 can only do 33in^3. If I am forced to buy this sub it's your fault. just saying...

The point here is that diameter isn't the whole story. Note we don't call the the scorpion engine the 3.9" powerstroke, we refer to the swept cylinder volume, 6.7L.

 

LMAO....Hey I was just pointing some stuff out

Seriously though....here are the tabs I've had open for a while now on subs....

CS110-WXv2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - BassWedge? - JL Audio
CP108LG-W3v3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio
CP110LG-TW1 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio
CP208LG-W3v3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio
Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - PowerWedge? - Truck PowerWedge?
Sound Ordnance B-8PTD 125-watt compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

That CP208LG looks good, and according to the dimensions It'll run 3/4 the length of the cab behind the back seat, and will be just a few inches above the pivot point of the seat, so there's a lot more room in front of most of the driver since there's a cavity there, as opposed to a driver sitting higher up, firing directly into the seat.

The Sound Ordnance...well...that was just an idea....someone put 2 of these in an F150 CC and said it sounded amazing....

Looks like each of these enclosures use different drivers too....if I had more information on the internals of that CP208 box, I'd build it....I've built custom boxes before but it's been a while.

 

I was going to do this same mod. I took the box out and examined the radiator that sits attached to the back end of the OEM sub...pretty cool. I was about to install a MB Quart sub until I heard how the factory sub and OEM speakers sounded with my new Pioneer head unit. Wow. The sound quality and lack of bass is definitely attributed to the crappy OEM head unit. You will definitely want an amp with anything aftermarket you install.

I was one of the few Best Buy MECP Master Installers back in the day and know how to build a great SQ and DB vehicle. I can honestly tell you that the factory sub pounds for its size and really sounds great when coupled with some more power.

 

I've already done my upgrade. Polk DB6501 up front, DB571 in back....being run by a RF R600x5 amp...using high level inputs from factory radio. It actually sounds on par with an aftermarket head unit. I'm adding a JL 10" Microsub next....

 

With decent quality speakers the factory head unit sounds very good. I always replace the tweeters with Polk 1" tweets and the difference with just these is remarkable.

DO NOT judge your upgrades/head unit quality based on the sat radio, the frequency range and audio quality in general is horrible from the sat. HD FM and your Bluetooth feed from your devices is where you get nice audio source, CD player too.

For my 2015 truck I have to say that the factory sub is ok enough for me to seriously consider leaving it alone but it only sounds good when I'm getting audio from my phone. The sat radio signal is horrible. The Polk tweeters have been all I've needed so far.

In my 2011 truck I made my own sub enclosure to fit behind the rear passenger seat. You can measure the available space, make a box that has enough volume to drive a 10' sub as a sealed unit, no port. Ports work well when you have more volume which we can't do.

 

Yup. Got my sub and installed it this Saturday...went with the 8" JL Microsub. HOLY **** this thing hits!!

So up front.... Polk DB6501s, DB571s in the rear, and that sub all run by a RF R600x5 amp using high level inputs from the factory radio. I'm OK with this setup...it'll hold me over for a LONG time. Last thing will be to design my infotainment system.

 

I hooked up my factory sub to this amp;
BOSS Audio R1002 Riot 200-watts Full Range Class A/B 2 Channel 2-8 Ohm Stable Amplifier

It sounds terrible. I have it turned way down, on the head unit, Clarion, and on the amp and it sounds over modulated or something. I was wondering if the speakers are blown??? I'll post a video tomorrow.