Hydro booster
#1
Hydro booster
I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L
here's the question, I was quoted $1000 to replace this, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat. Thanks
here's the question, I was quoted $1000 to replace this, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat. Thanks
#2
That does sound like a high quote but may be right. That's a pretty important part and I would at least want a kit with the proper parts to try a repair, trying to match up Orings and seals could be dangerous.
I'd give Ed a call at FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts and get a price on a replacement unit. Even if you plan on using a shop, knowing the price of the part could be helpful in determining what the labor charges are. Or even save a few bucks if you pick up the part and take it in with the truck.
I'd give Ed a call at FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts and get a price on a replacement unit. Even if you plan on using a shop, knowing the price of the part could be helpful in determining what the labor charges are. Or even save a few bucks if you pick up the part and take it in with the truck.
#4
Not an unusual problem.
Some shops will not do work with brought in parts.
There are rebuild kits but they tend to be available to commercial rebuilders only. The failure of a home repaired unit is not a liability you would care to have, especially if you already have thought about having a shop do this work.
Replacing the M/C at the same time is not a bad idea at the same time. There have been situations of people having a four wheel brake hang up that turned out to be the M/C leaking into the hydrobooster and rust forming, pushing the M/C to slightly apply.
Some shops will not do work with brought in parts.
There are rebuild kits but they tend to be available to commercial rebuilders only. The failure of a home repaired unit is not a liability you would care to have, especially if you already have thought about having a shop do this work.
Replacing the M/C at the same time is not a bad idea at the same time. There have been situations of people having a four wheel brake hang up that turned out to be the M/C leaking into the hydrobooster and rust forming, pushing the M/C to slightly apply.
#6
Yep. And why you see the trend towards buying pre-rebuilt calipers, master cylinders and the like rather then shops rebuilding with repair kits. It's not only labor rate, but the larger repair chains and manufacturers service divisions see the issue from the risk management side.
If the vehicle has an accident after a shop rebuild, the plaintiffs attorney (and that can include not only the innocent, but the vehicle owner who had the repairs due to his expectation of service) has every right to investigate and question the entities doing the work: extent of training for the repair, training updates, certifications, management's training program and certification of the employee, etc. If tests like ASE, what certs, test scores, any retests due to failure, etc.
Much easier to say I bought the rebuilt parts and installed them per the service instructions.
If the vehicle has an accident after a shop rebuild, the plaintiffs attorney (and that can include not only the innocent, but the vehicle owner who had the repairs due to his expectation of service) has every right to investigate and question the entities doing the work: extent of training for the repair, training updates, certifications, management's training program and certification of the employee, etc. If tests like ASE, what certs, test scores, any retests due to failure, etc.
Much easier to say I bought the rebuilt parts and installed them per the service instructions.
#7
I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L
here's the question, I was quoted $1000 to replace this, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat. Thanks
here's the question, I was quoted $1000 to replace this, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat. Thanks
Two nuts hold the master cylinder to the boost unit and 4 nuts hold the boost unit to firewall. I didn't replace the master cylinder when I did the boost unit. They are separate from each other, so if your leak is in the cab more than likely the master cylinder is fine. You would need to inspect the interface between the boost unit and MC for brake fluid. If brake fluid is present, then MC Has a leak.
I'm sure that quote includes parts, but stills seems a bit high to me. There's no way I'd pay a grand for that job.
Now I'm gonna crack open another beer and wait for 69CJ to respond, giving me the what-for and a good brow beating. LOL
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#9
#10
Just replace the whole boost unit. I installed a Cardone reman several years and its a pretty straightforward job. Maybe 1.5-2 hrs from start to finish.
Two nuts hold the master cylinder to the boost unit and 4 nuts hold the boost unit to firewall. I didn't replace the master cylinder when I did the boost unit. They are separate from each other, so if your leak is in the cab more than likely the master cylinder is fine. You would need to inspect the interface between the boost unit and MC for brake fluid. If brake fluid is present, then MC Has a leak.
I'm sure that quote includes parts, but stills seems a bit high to me. There's no way I'd pay a grand for that job.
Now I'm gonna crack open another beer and wait for 69CJ to respond, giving me the what-for and a good brow beating. LOL
Two nuts hold the master cylinder to the boost unit and 4 nuts hold the boost unit to firewall. I didn't replace the master cylinder when I did the boost unit. They are separate from each other, so if your leak is in the cab more than likely the master cylinder is fine. You would need to inspect the interface between the boost unit and MC for brake fluid. If brake fluid is present, then MC Has a leak.
I'm sure that quote includes parts, but stills seems a bit high to me. There's no way I'd pay a grand for that job.
Now I'm gonna crack open another beer and wait for 69CJ to respond, giving me the what-for and a good brow beating. LOL
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