96' Cab Removal
#1
96' Cab Removal
My name is Grant. I've always looked at this forum for some how-to's on certain things but joined today to try & receive some input from some of you that may be more knowledgeable in this area.
I'm wanting to do a ground up restoration on 96' Single Cab 7.3. This is all started with my twin I beam being bent from running off the road in this last snow storm here in Kentucky. I'm buying a 4:10 straight axle next week to swap in. But I want to remove the cab to sandblast the frame & paint it. Also want to go over the motor really well. New injectors & O-Rings & what not.
I have all the equipment necessary to lift the cab off the frame. I'm just looking for some tips & tricks that some of you all might know that has done this before. Any input will be greatly appreciated!
I'm wanting to do a ground up restoration on 96' Single Cab 7.3. This is all started with my twin I beam being bent from running off the road in this last snow storm here in Kentucky. I'm buying a 4:10 straight axle next week to swap in. But I want to remove the cab to sandblast the frame & paint it. Also want to go over the motor really well. New injectors & O-Rings & what not.
I have all the equipment necessary to lift the cab off the frame. I'm just looking for some tips & tricks that some of you all might know that has done this before. Any input will be greatly appreciated!
#3
4 cab an 2 front clip bolts, I took mastercyl off at booster an steering loose at gearbox. pull radiator just to make sure you don't hit an damage it. parking brake cable right under driver floor, ground off cab above map sensor shift cable at trans if auto, harness for motor right by the air box, rear lights an trans auto or 5 speed harness's just to the side of PCM. front bumper. I used a piece of angle an rags layed across fenders an tied the AC compressor to it so I didn't have to drain system. power steering pump stays on motor. I feel like I'm forgetting something but its not that bad of a job. working slow it took about 2 hours to get mine off.
#4
4 cab an 2 front clip bolts, I took mastercyl off at booster an steering loose at gearbox. pull radiator just to make sure you don't hit an damage it. parking brake cable right under driver floor, ground off cab above map sensor shift cable at trans if auto, harness for motor right by the air box, rear lights an trans auto or 5 speed harness's just to the side of PCM. front bumper. I used a piece of angle an rags layed across fenders an tied the AC compressor to it so I didn't have to drain system. power steering pump stays on motor. I feel like I'm forgetting something but its not that bad of a job. working slow it took about 2 hours to get mine off.
#5
Yes 4 door crew cab. If yours is a single cab you have to watch it being front heavy. My sons truck cab was harder to keep on the lift than mine. I did it to make my truck 4x4 I swapped it over from a truck I got to use the frame. Did motor trans cab an bed an love it so far. Nothing like a 4door 4x4 dually
Huh Bill! I took front truck an swapped over to the truck on trailer.
#6
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#8
Quesey
I got everything done today & now I just need to take the cab bolts out. I noticed the two very front cab bolts by the radiator support were pretty bad rusted. Hell the bracket on the driver side isn't even attached anymore it rusted through so bad. I won't even have to loosen that bolt. It's already broke free. Did you come across the same thing with yours?
I got everything done today & now I just need to take the cab bolts out. I noticed the two very front cab bolts by the radiator support were pretty bad rusted. Hell the bracket on the driver side isn't even attached anymore it rusted through so bad. I won't even have to loosen that bolt. It's already broke free. Did you come across the same thing with yours?
#9
If your front bolts are rusted that bad, they likely all are.
I just took my truck apart completely a few months ago and cab and rad support bolts were one of the worst jobs in the whole project. I think only 2 of 6 unscrewed properly. I had to cut everything else out, which wasn't easy. It's tough to get access to get a grinder wheel where you want. A sawzall and lots of patience may have been better in hindsight.
If you do cut any off you'll need new boots and hardware, though It's a pretty crazy setup of specialty bolts, mating threaded washers and other specialty hardware ford used on these. I wound up using long 7/16" bolts and fabbing a bunch of collars and big washers at work as the urethane bushing kits don't come with anything but rubber parts.
I just took my truck apart completely a few months ago and cab and rad support bolts were one of the worst jobs in the whole project. I think only 2 of 6 unscrewed properly. I had to cut everything else out, which wasn't easy. It's tough to get access to get a grinder wheel where you want. A sawzall and lots of patience may have been better in hindsight.
If you do cut any off you'll need new boots and hardware, though It's a pretty crazy setup of specialty bolts, mating threaded washers and other specialty hardware ford used on these. I wound up using long 7/16" bolts and fabbing a bunch of collars and big washers at work as the urethane bushing kits don't come with anything but rubber parts.
#10
Quesey
I got everything done today & now I just need to take the cab bolts out. I noticed the two very front cab bolts by the radiator support were pretty bad rusted. Hell the bracket on the driver side isn't even attached anymore it rusted through so bad. I won't even have to loosen that bolt. It's already broke free. Did you come across the same thing with yours?
I got everything done today & now I just need to take the cab bolts out. I noticed the two very front cab bolts by the radiator support were pretty bad rusted. Hell the bracket on the driver side isn't even attached anymore it rusted through so bad. I won't even have to loosen that bolt. It's already broke free. Did you come across the same thing with yours?
No not on mine they were both pretty much rust free.
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