1981 302 crank but no start
#1
1981 302 crank but no start
Hey guys, I have the 81 f150 and I'm stumped on it. It has the 302. The truck will crank one time and that is it. It doesn't click or anything. I can turn the key back and turn it forward and it'll crank once and that is it. I have replaced the battery, the starter relay, the starter, and all the cables. I'm stumped. Any advice or anything I would appreciate!
#2
For completeness, here's what I said in a PM:
A slow crank and then nothing says that everything is connected and working, to some extent. Here, are my thoughts, but you should really be doing this in a thread so you can get everyone's input as I may overlook something.
A slow crank and then nothing says that everything is connected and working, to some extent. Here, are my thoughts, but you should really be doing this in a thread so you can get everyone's input as I may overlook something.
- Battery: One slow crank and then rather nothing or a clicking solenoid is a classic battery problem. Even though you have a new battery it may not be charged, so put it on a slow charger for several hours.
- Cables: Don't overlook the ground cable(s) as they are as important as the positive one. And, sometimes a cable goes bad on the inside but looks good on the outside. To find that, take a volt meter on the 2 volt scale and put it across each connection and each cable, one at a time, and have someone try to start it. A bad connection or cable will show up as a high voltage.
- Starter: Many guys on here have gotten a bad starter right out of the box. Take it back and have it tested.
- Solenoid: maybe the solenoid is bad. Do the voltage check across it when cranking.
- Engine: If the initial timing is too far advanced it'll kick back. But that will usually let the engine crank some. But a cylinder full of water or gasoline won't. So pull the plugs and crank it. Does anything come out? Does it crank well?
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#9
Its a C6 transmission. I bought the truck not running. When I first got it home, it had nothing at all and now it just cranks once. The transmission has been installed the entire time I've owned it (3 months)
#10
I would put a voltmeter on the small red/light-blue wire on the solenoid, other voltmeter lead to ground... have somebody turn the key to START - do you get battery voltage there?
#11
If it were mine, I'd be focused here... if you can't hear the solenoid click with the key in START... the noise is usually overcome by the starter motor...
I would put a voltmeter on the small red/light-blue wire on the solenoid, other voltmeter lead to ground... have somebody turn the key to START - do you get battery voltage there?
I would put a voltmeter on the small red/light-blue wire on the solenoid, other voltmeter lead to ground... have somebody turn the key to START - do you get battery voltage there?
#12
Here are some tests:
- Between the red/light-blue wire on the solenoid and ground you should have battery voltage when cranking
- The battery's positive post to ground should show ~12.4 volts when the battery is fully charged, and probably about 10 - 11 volts when cranking
- Across the solenoid's big posts you should see well less than a volt when cranking