all cylinders are over 100 but this one is very low, number 2 cylinder.
I was told it's the valves.
Can I just do one cylinder valve?
or one engine side?

I have no money to speak of
What will happen if I do nothing?
crack the block from overheating?

thanks guys

I don't want to spend 2 grand on an engine when I could get another
with lots more horses...
Advice?

 

Is this a V8 or a 6? Pull the spark plug on #2; can you see the valve? (On a V8 you should) If so use a bent screwdriver or similar to press down on the valve, as close to center as possible. Don't over-do it. If that isn't working, pull the intake manifold off (V8) or tappet cover (6-cyl) and see if it's the lifter that's stuck or the valve. If the lifter moves freely (or can be pushed down when the cam is right), work on pulling the valve down. Liberal application of your favorite weasel **** on the valve stem, from top and bottom, will help.

 

Thanks Ross, it's a flathead V8, that sounds like an amazing fix. I also hear I can take one side off and repair, what a relief [I hope]. This truck engine deserves to live longer!

 

You shouldn't have to pull a head unless a valve is bent or really stuck bad. Pulling the intake will tell you a lot about your engine's condition, for not much pain. You don't even have to drain the coolant.

 

Thanks Ross, I am keeping my fingers crossed this works! I'll let you know.

 

The only conditions that Ross's approach won't fix are a burnt valve or something terrible with your piston / cylinder wall. I highly doubt the cylinder / wall has problems or you would hear it. If you have a burnt valve you can replace just one valve. You just have to be careful with grinding the seat and setting the valve clearance.

Hopefully Ross has you good to go.

 

38 coupe - Outstanding addition to what's been offered. Thanks. I can't wait to get my fingers dirty this weekend. I had no idea this MIGHT be an easy fix... well short of pulling the old flathead out anyway... fingers and toes crossed...

 

Have you done a wet compression test with oil in the cylinder?
This will tell us if it is in the valve train or piston/ring seal area.
If it looks like a sticky valve or lifter thing than Marvel Mystery
in the oil won't hurt any. Be sure to change the oil after a couple
hundred miles or so. I have been known to pour ATF or MM down
the carb at a fast idle or what it takes to keep the engine running
while pouring in the oil. This loosens the carbon and cleans the
combustion chambers out. Pulling the intake will show you how bad
the gunk may be built up in your engine also. Note than when doing
this a big piece off carbon can come loose and get under a valve and
bend it. But this is rare.

 

Thanks for the tips, I will try that also...

 

 

 

Hulaman has not posted in over a year. If your problem is similar, the tips above should work for you, too. Welcome to the forum!