I know someone posted the name and phone number of a guy who makes a custom wrench to take the oil pressure sender off on the 8BA block. Does anyone have that information. I remember seeing a picture of it and it was nicely made. I tried to make one but it didn't work. I am still fighting with an oil leak at the block and need to remove the sender.

Thanks

 

I don't recall seeing a current production wrench, is this the thread you're thinking of?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-wrench.html

 

Ross,

No, That's the wrench I made. It didn't work very well, and I finally broke it at one of the brazed joints. The wrench I remember seeing was not a one-off, but was a production piece by someone else, and he was selling them for $25.00 each.

Maybe it was on another forum.

Thanks,

Joe W

 

I found it. It was posted some time ago on the EarlyfordV8.org forum. They said it was available from a guy named Bill Wzorek in Mass. For $25, it would work for me, I know that one could be made that doesn't look as pretty, but I don't have an oxy-acetylene torch so that would be tedious for me to make. Pic is attached.



Flathead Oil ressure sender wrench

 

Thats an easy one. Torch, vise and wrench; heat wrench again and throw it in a bucket
of oil.. We made a couple in high school. The school cadavers was two 59AB's that was
operated on for years by the kids. Interestingly, the school bought a brand new engine and
one fairly worn out engine. The teacher raced 59ABs in the local oval tracks, class A
division, so we learned alot (and the teacher got free labor from us kids) bet they don't
do that today if they even have a shop class now. I still have that tool I made 58 yrs
ago, infact used it the other day. Note; this truck we just bought as per gauge read low,
used my tool, screwed in mechanical gauge and it read a little over 45# I went into my
collection and found a sender from maybe a 360 Dodge V8 (for kicks) now my
dash gauge reads between the 30 to 80 = good enough for me....

 

Joe don't need ac/ox= plain ole propane with in time will do it. No need
to be fancy may use it one time. Also don't use tape or sealant ,these
work on being grounded don't worry threads NPT (tapered)

 

You can also pull the trans cover plate off the floor, the sender will be right at hand. If you only need to tighten it a bit, you can get at it thru there or just reaching up from below. Not fun, but do-able.

 

Not to hi-jack this thread....
I've been watching this conversation about the special wrench because the sending unit is hard to get at with a regular wrench. Now I have a question about where the oil pressure sending unit should be mounted. On my old 239 v8 engine my oil sending unit was mounted on the back of the oil filter canister in conjunction with a tee fitting. Is this correct or not? I've looked in my shop manual for a picture and cannot find one with the sending unit in place.
Thanks,
Scott in Texas

 

48 - 50 trucks had them down on the block where the oil filter tubing connects. In 51 they moved it up where yours is.

 

Thanks Ross......You came through again!


Scott

 

We one of the POs of my truck obviously had the same problem and moved the sender to a location on the oil filter (see white circle in picture below).

What is the correct location please?



I assume that it is one of these ports?

 

Holy crap! With those three ports, you are ready to run a full-flow filter system. Is your block a Canadian piece? Look in the "A" port; is there an obstruction in there, like a pipe plug?

Your OP sender as-is is correct for a '51- '52. Change it to the early style and you'll regret it!

 

Finally, with a 5/8" open end wrench, working on my back under the the
truck. I was able to unscrew it. It was not leaking oil around the threads, it was leaking around the seam where the top hat meets the base. I could hold the threaded part with a wrench, I could turn the top part 360 degrees easily. So that seam was where most of the leaking was coming from. It was also leaking a little at the solder joint between the metal base and the threaded brass piece.

My knuckles should heal up in a month or so.

BTW- The thread on the bottom where it screws into the block is actually called 1/4" pipe thread. It's a tapered thread. I bought a plug to plug the hole in the block temporarily at True Value hardware, and it fits perfectly. I have seen people put a pipe nipple and a coupling between the block and the sender to make it easier to get to. I decided not to do that as my truck is very original and it wouldn't look right. I ordered the neew 80 Lb. sender from C&G Ford parts.

I also know about the mod in 51 that put the sender up near the oil filter canister. That was probably an engineering change brought on by lots of hate mail from mechanics.

Here's a couple of pics. You cant see oil around that seam because it has mostly drained out. But trust me that is where the leak was. I probably won't use the 36 inch wrench to put the new one in. With tapered threads it probably just needs to be fairly snug.

 

 

If you peel the crimped seam up and open the sender, I think you'll find that the hole in the case where the square fitting comes out, and the crimped seam, are not meant to be tightly sealed. They are just a cover. The diaphragm inside must be cracked and it just comes out at those points. See the drain hole in the bottom? It is interesting to see how they're made, if you have nothing else to do...

That's interesting that it has an "UP" arrow. I wonder how that works when installed vertically?!