I wasn't getting heat from the heater so I popped the hood and felt the hoses for the heater core, both were cold with the engine at operating temp and the heater on (fan on full). So I opened this little cap that is on the hose from the water pump to the heater core and it was bone dry inside.

I thought nothing of it and buttoned everything up because I had to get to class. I did not notice anything wrong with it last night on the way home.

Today I drove it 8 miles and was surprised to faintly smell coolant and seeing my temp gauge around the "L" in normal. Much higher than it is usually. I checked the radiator and overflow and both were bone dry. So I topped up with water and went to my destination 4 miles further.

Let it sit for a few hours and checked the rad and overflow, both bone dry. Topped it off with water again and drove it home. Again bone dry when I got home temp gauge stayed around the "L".

So I let it cool, filled it up, and burped it by squeezing the top radiator hose. Did this a couple of times adding water each time the level dropped enough. Took it for a half hour ride around town and a little on the freeway. Temp gauge stayed around the "N" in normal where it usually is on cool days.

Took it to O'Reiles (sp?) and talked with the guy there with a 89 bronco. He couldn't find any leaks and was a little concerned that with the engine running and at operating temps, he could squeeze the top radiator hose. He says there should be enough pressure to prevent that.

I've never squeezed the hose with it running before so I don't know. He seems to think there isn't any water pressure in the system.

Heater works now, truck temp seems stable. Floor is dry so the heater core isn't leaking. No leaks to be found anywhere. Found a small puddle of coolant on top of the water pump directly below the thermostat, no telling how long that puddle has been there. However the thermostat was dry all the way around. The oil looks good (needs to be changed), no water in the oil.

So here are my questions:

#1 is the most likely explanation for the high temps air in the system?
#2 would a bad thermostat cause this issue? (if it wasn't the air in the system)
#3 would this issue cause a thermostat to go bad?
#4 what about the water pump?
#5 should I be able to squeeze the top radiator hose with the engine running at normal operating temps?
#6 should I be concerned about water pressure given the scenario?
#7 should I replace the thermostat and/or water pump?
#8 where did all of the coolant and later on the water go if I can't find any leaks?

 

Well I turned off the computer before going to bed last night before I checked on the coolant level When I looked last night it was at the normal level and it was tinted green (I'm assuming there was some coolant mix in the block). I found that a little odd though as I had to refill the radiator 3 times with water. Unless that water never made it to through the block?

 

I believe I found the source of the leak after some further dabbing up of the puddles of coolant that I thought were old. I lighted up the area of the leak compared to the rest of the photo. It's a very slow leak.

I don't know what this part is called, I know it's not the water pump as the water pump is in front of this piece .... right? Any insight is appreciated.



Full size (or you can click the thumbnail) ...

http://s28.postimg.org/pllcg9g5p/coolant_leak.png

Could I put some type of RTV as a temp fix for a couple of weeks until spring break?

 

Ok so that's the timing cover gasket that's leaking...I think Guess I'll take it to a shop and get a quote.

 

Ok more questions and hopefully I'll get an answer or two

#1 How do I know if my timing cover has reverse flow?
#2 How can I tell which timing chain I need (single tooth vs double tooth)? Going to replace it since I have no idea if it's original or not and I'll have the cover off anyways.
#3 Should I go for a newer water pump that providers more water at lower rpms or stick with a stock setup?

I'm assuming that most people upgrade to the 195F thermostat when they replace the stock one right?

 

hey zombie before you take it too a shop check that small 90 degree hose that connects from the water pump to that thermostat housing. (atleast im pretty sure it connects to the water pump to dark outside for me to check) often times that will leak just a little and pool up on the spot you pictured, let it warm up to build pressure and check that. Atleast it did that on mine. If not it probably is your timing cover leaking.

you might just need a radiator cap to fix the pressure bit.


195F should be your stock temp you want to use whatever is stock, the ultra thermostats from oreilly auto parts are good lets more flow through.

Putting so much water in your lucky you saved it, so good job. i would go to oreilly and rent a coolant pressure check tool to see where you really are leaking from. if you've never rented there they make it really easy.

checking oreilly website they only show standard flow. dont get a reverse flow **** ends badly. stock should be a double chain but check a manual to make sure.

i also recommend buying local just in case you need to return something or there is a warranty issue. and dont forget if you do removing the timing cover you will have to do an oil change because the coolant will fall into your oil pan.

 

I took it to a shop and was quoted between 5 and 13 hundred dollars depending on how many bolts break The mechanic said I could drive it around and not worry too much as long as I keep it topped off, so that's probably what I'll do for awhile.

Once spring break gets here (a week or two ... I forget when ) I'm definitely doing a coolant flush and replacing the thermostat and radiator cap. The hoses are all good and the only leak found was on the timing cover.

Definitely buying local, don't want to hassle with wrong parts or lost parts

 

Replacing the water pump is quite a bit of work, the whole AC, power steering bracket has to be taken off and of course the radiator, fan etc.


I like the idea of just keeping an eye on the water level, and planning out the work in the meantime. its not an impossible job, but it is a job. Keep the replacement parts new, not rebuilt, and Ford new if you want to splurge.


It might help to run with a lower radiator cap pressure, or maybe no pressure, that will keep the pressure from pushing out the coolant.

 

yea I have this issue when I went to a 15lb cap. I will be going back to a 13lb cap

 

Turns out I have a 13lb cap on it now with a pressure relief valve. Probably stick with that pressure but find one that "fails open."

 

You might consider installing a mechanical water temp gauge. I got an aftermarket Tstat housing to allow a mechanical gauge to be installed. This way I have a more accurate idea of whats going on.

 

Hmmm, I might just do that

 

any updates?

 

I wound up taking it in to do the work. I was too afraid of breaking off one or more bolts through the pump/timing cover Turns out I didn't have to worry about that, they all came out nice and easy While it was at the shop I had other work done since it was there.

Replaced timing cover because the leak was due to a gouge in the cover itself. No idea how or why that gouge was there. It looked like someone tried to pry it off with a screwdriver or something.

Replaced timing gear and chain.

Flushed the transmission fluid and had them fix a leak. A line from the transmission cooler had rotted out (I thought it might have been an oil leak because it was all black )

Replaced a small portion of heater hose from the flush fill thingy to the water pump.

Found out the MAF sensor was bad (holy hell are those expensive). They tried to clean it but the wire was broken like something hard had hit it

All total it cost me $1510.09 But no more leaks! Had I known that the bolts would've come off as easy as they had, I probably would've attempted to do the work myself this summer. Oh well, no use bitching about it now.

Now the somewhat surprising news (at least it didn't occur to me until I noticed it), I'm getting way better gas mileage. The truck idles at a lower rpm (550-600 vs 750ish) and has a lower cruise idle @ 60 mph (1550ish vs 1700ish).

One draw back however, sometimes if I start the truck and then turn on the hid headlights ... the motor stalls out. Fire it up again and all is well.

I had the work done about two weeks ago and the tank was just over 1/4 full. I only filled it up last night because I was getting concerned that the gauge wasn't working. Turns out it's working just fine. So I noted the miles and the gallons and will run it almost dry to get a mpg with city/highway use and post when those numbers are in

 

if you start the truck and don't turn the headlights on right away does it still stall?