1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rusted Bed Rail Bottoms, what's best

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Old 03-13-2015, 02:30 PM
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Rusted Bed Rail Bottoms, what's best



so I'm replacing the wood bed surface, and removed the 1st rail and the bottom is rusted. Not to the point they can't be re-used though. Since I'll have to do 7 of these, what's the best way to go about it? Chemical? Power tool? Both?
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 03:39 PM
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If your budget allows, they are readily available in Stainless, and steel (zinc plated?) from most of the F1 suppliers. Is it just the underside that is rusted? If so and you want to reuse them , I would use a wire wheel followed by a rust converter, b4 paint. I'm sure others with more experience will add there suggestion's. Whatever you do don't forget eye protection, Ive had steel and brass removed from my eyes B4 and it's not fun. Good luck, looking forward to pics.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RJNRJN


so I'm replacing the wood bed surface, and removed the 1st rail and the bottom is rusted. Not to the point they can't be re-used though. Since I'll have to do 7 of these, what's the best way to go about it? Chemical? Power tool? Both?
That pic looks like it's pretty rusty. I would agree with Jimmy about a wire wheel (and the face mask). That way you can see how deep the rust is, and if they are actually salvageable.

I've removed rust using electrolysis too, but can't picture any vat long enough to clean those strips. Same scenario for vinegar, which would work if you had a long enough tub.

Will you be painting them?
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 04:26 PM
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I was planning on painting them, but what Jim said looks good, about stainless. The 1st place I checked has them for $150, $100 if I polish them. I'm surprised they're so low. Kind of makes re-painting my existing ones pointless.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RJNRJN
I was planning on painting them, but what Jim said looks good, about stainless. The 1st place I checked has them for $150, $100 if I polish them. I'm surprised they're so low. Kind of makes re-painting my existing ones pointless.
That's what I would do. If you're putting in new wood or refinishing the old wood, new strips will just add to the look.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:03 PM
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When I got the truck, the wood was bad, so new wood. Do y'all have any experience with the stainless steel strips? I'm wondering about durability. At such a low price, I'm wondering about what gauge, thickness they use. Wouldn't want something flimsy, I use my bed.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:07 PM
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Are you going for a stock look or do you want bling?

If stock, get the steel and paint them your body color. Truth be told, from the factory the bed boards were painted body color, too.

If going bling get the shiny stainless.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:22 PM
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Here is a pic of my bed, sorry for the poor quality, taken in 1999 shortly after I got the truck painted. The Red Oak boards have blackened and the sealer is peeling off now, so in the near future I plan on sanding them and getting house paint to match Meadow Green and painting the bed green.

 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:26 PM
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The guy i got it from put a lot of nice chrome. Front bumper, grill, this V thing on front of the hood,etc. I painted it 11:30 blue and it looks kind of cool. I wasn't going use chrome strips or stainless till i saw the price. If i add a chrome rear bumper and some trim around the lights, etc it think the rear will on par with the front. The big problem is my running boards are rusted about half the whole surface. I think they held water.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:34 PM
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That looks awesome. Would you use the same wood today?
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:58 PM
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If you want to save those strips and get all the rust off you'll have to get creative and use electrolysis. With seven strips, it will take a while, days. Get a section of PVC, install end caps and split the assembly. Use the assembly as a tank or if you like, use two tanks. You'll need several electrodes placed along the length. For what replacements cost are, you would be as well off to buy replacement strips.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:30 PM
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The SS strips are quite durable and hold up to usage. No point IMO to get the Polished SS, unless it's a show truck. Steel strips aren't going to hold paint, top or bottom, and will look like what you have soon.

You could do electrolysis half at a time, although Ray's idea of PVC is a good one.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:41 PM
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By new ones! Your time is probably worth more than the 150 or so you would spend, I have 3 trucks 2 with stainless both beautiful and one with painted black again very nice my originals weren't even as bad as your photos, it was just quicker and easier to buy new ones
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:47 PM
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Just an FYI, when it comes to the wood, there are volumes of past information on the subject.. Spending some time doing an advanced thread search will be well worth the time. Coatings and different wood types along with what to expect from each one has been discussed in depth. A must read. If your not familiar with the search feature, click on the FAQ button on the blue banner (top of main page) and a drop down menu with how to search will appear. (Searching under AXs name may be productive.)
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:53 PM
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Needed the search tip for sure. I'm convinced: stainless for sure. I just measured for thickness of the wood I'll need. Nothing thicker than 1/2", 5/8" MAX is gonna fit into the slot at the back of the bed. Everything I've read says 3/4" or 7/8'" is the standard. What's up with that?
 
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