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77 Ford F250 Ranger Camper Special Purchase Advice

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Old 03-12-2015, 11:33 PM
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77 Ford F250 Ranger Camper Special Purchase Advice

Hello,

I'm looking to purchase a classic ford truck. I don't know much about classic trucks and I'm seeking some advice. What questions should I ask? What should I look for? What should I be aware of? Thanks for you help. I have put the text from the ad below along with some pictures. He has agree to lower the price to $3,90 from $4,500.


I am the second owner of this truck it is very clean and very true no major damage only minor scratches original paint it has a 460 v8 mileage is 130,000 interior is near perfect condition no rips or tears in the bench seat no cracks in the dash headliner in perfect condition windows roll up and down no glass is cracked






























 
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:56 AM
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Looks very nice. But how does it run, drive and stop?? How does the engine look?? Is it fairly clean?? Pull the dipstick and look at the oil. Is it clean? Does the transmission shift good? Any puddles under it? Take radiator cap off and look at the antifreeze. Is it a nice green color? Body looks good in the pics but is there rust in the lower corners of the cab? Or along the rear qtr panels? $3900 doesn't sound too bad....but assuming all checks out, is it what you want to pay? THis should get you started.....others might chime in with more info. Write it down if you have to....take a buddy!! Im digging those wheels and tires btw. Oh, and dont expect any decent mileage from a 460. 8-10mpg all day long depending on how its tuned.
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:13 PM
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Took a Look...

The tailgate had some rust in it. The blinker had a short in it. The main thing was the engine was knocking and I need to drive it home which was two hours away. Also the drum brakes needed to be replaced. Looked good in the pictures but wasn't the one for me. Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:23 PM
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No prob. That's too bad.....truck looked really nice.
 
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:38 PM
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where is this guy located??
 
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:15 PM
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Read read read!!! There are lots of posts on here of things to look for. Don't every believe the mileage number they tell you, no way to document it unless it has all service records ever and the mileage matches up. You made the right decision to walk away. My biggest thing in these old trucks is mechanical. I have had 3 of the 4 I own towed home, but i also paid in the $600 to $700 range for them. All of them have run with little effort. I myself would not pay that money with out it being almost perfect mechanically. Don't know where you live, but getting under the truck is a must. Check floors and cab mounts, frame, rockers. Passenger side in most areas of the country will rust worse than driver side. Your not gonna find anything perfect, but at least knowing what you have is best and gives you grounds to haggle.
 
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:39 PM
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THIS Is A COMPILATION Of LOTS OF FTE FOLKS. Thank you guys.

New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed.
BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.

Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around. 2wd or F150 4x4 how do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 transfer case operation. 4Hi and 4low in gravel ordirt. Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work? Insp the front cab mounts behind the slpashguard very wekk rust prone. Ck body lines for missalighment. Roof drip rails, cab floor pans rust?

Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.

Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge? Turn it all off.

Then Start Engine. See if elec choke works. Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.

Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work? Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift (manual or auto) ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?

CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.

Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ? Shoe me some receipts if lots of new parts are advertised.

Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what YOU might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the 1st offer, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)
 
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