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  #16  
Old 03-28-2015, 08:18 PM
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Started pulling the electcal parts I think that I will need found the inertia switch working on getting the harness then fuel pump harness and pipes just wonder about the fuel tank and pump, I going to ck them out
Going to see how hard it is to get the brake peddal out
 
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:27 PM
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. You would need the Chevy pump for TPI (Tuned Port Injection/multiport injection) for 45 psi... the TBI (Throttle Body Injection) system works at about 15 psi... all rubber hoses need to be fuel injection grade for high pressure and resistance to 10% ethanol gasolines... standard fuel line hose can't take the pressure for long and some get eaten by ethanol fuel in a couple of years...
 
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BuzzLOL
. You would need the Chevy pump for TPI (Tuned Port Injection/multiport injection) for 45 psi... the TBI (Throttle Body Injection) system works at about 15 psi... all rubber hoses need to be fuel injection grade for high pressure and resistance to 10% ethanol gasolines... standard fuel line hose can't take the pressure for long and some get eaten by ethanol fuel in a couple of years...
Thank you buzz it going take me awhile trying to work out some motor mounts at this time
 
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Old 04-11-2015, 04:40 PM
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Need a little more 302 info
Is there a point that I can use for centering the front of the engine in the frame
I have it in the frame and got the tran mounted, the front I'm using the water pump as a

center how close is this to actual center
 
  #20  
Old 04-11-2015, 05:41 PM
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. I'd use the center of the crankshaft as the center of the engine... I'd look at the differential in the rear... the center of it's shaft isn't always centered between the frame rails...
 
  #21  
Old 04-11-2015, 06:43 PM
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It's hard to get a handle on the center of the crank it's about 3" deep in the pulley just thought that there was another place I could use did want to pull the serpentine apart
 
  #22  
Old 05-13-2015, 03:30 PM
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ok I got the engine in my 49' F1 and have a question on the fuel lines
the E250 had two fuel tanks and a junction cylinder where 4 lines come in and 2 go to the engine so is their a way the take the junction out of the line say a male/male fitting for the ford fuel lines. I have been looking at my local orielly /napa no luck
 
  #23  
Old 05-13-2015, 05:56 PM
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That '89 had a giant disaster of a fuel system on it, dual tanks with low pressure pumps in each one, and then a frame mounted high pressure pump and something called a dual function resovoir that switches fuel delivery/return between tanks and also provides a buffer between low and high pressure pumps. You need most of this to have a functional system with a single tank, but a single function resovoir has to be substituted and the fuel lines to the second tank capped or... maybe a better idea would just be to get a tank and fuel lines from a '90+ truck, those later trucks have a much simpler system with a high pressure pump and resovoir inside the tank and lines straight to the engine for single tank trucks.
 
  #24  
Old 05-13-2015, 06:19 PM
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Is their a single function reservoir I could buy or can I just plug up the other lines to the second tank

I took the pic the wrong way
 
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:18 PM
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Ok I found it thanks Conan
Pn fotz9k044a. $49.00
 
  #26  
Old 08-06-2015, 04:48 PM
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I have the engine in place now where to place the pcm. Is the engine bay/fire wall to hot? That would be easy, I could use the side kick space with some fab work
 
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:43 AM
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It's been a year and got the engine to run in its new home but the air pump is frozen won't turn at all is there some thing I did or ideas
 
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:45 AM
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Another pic of engine
 
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:10 PM
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Is there a replacement other than a pump like ac comp or ??
I could put an ac unit in but didn't want to spend a lot right now
 
  #30  
Old 03-25-2016, 12:52 PM
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You can delete the pump completely, I have done this in the past on this vintage motor with nothing but a shorter serpentine belt. You could cut down the original belt to the necessary length and take that to the parts store to help find a new belt to match. Be sure to set the tensioner somewhere in the middle of it's range when measuring belt length otherwise you won't get any preload on the new belt and it'll slip.
 


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