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4x4 Wiring Diagram and Now Troubleshooting Complete ESOF 4x4 Failure

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Old 03-10-2015, 08:55 AM
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4x4 Wiring Diagram and Now Troubleshooting Complete ESOF 4x4 Failure

Is there anyone out there that happens to have the wiring diagram for the 4x4 system on an 01 f250? I am having some issues chasing a problem and I am in need of the wiring diagrams. I've tried to Google it, but about all I'm getting is glow plug wiring diagrams and '02 f150 wiring diagrams.

Thanks in advance,

Baatzy
 
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:47 PM
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Old 03-10-2015, 04:55 PM
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Thanks, do you know where a guy could find the troubleshooting manual for the 4x4 system? I have tried everything I can think of to get this thing working and no joy. I haven't been able to find a thread that contains my problem yet either, so it seems to be very uncommon.

Thanks,

Baatzy
 
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Baatzy
Thanks, do you know where a guy could find the troubleshooting manual for the 4x4 system? I have tried everything I can think of to get this thing working and no joy. I haven't been able to find a thread that contains my problem yet either, so it seems to be very uncommon.

Thanks,

Baatzy
What codes are you getting? (you'll need a real scan tool for these DTC's)

What is the complaint?
 
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:37 PM
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My complaint is nothing works! Haha, um background, I was troubleshooting my vacuum leak yesterday, took a break for dinner, went out 30-45 minutes later turned the key on and went to flip the switch to check my pulse solenoid, and nothing, no pulse solenoid, no transfer case whir, no lights on the dash, nothing.

I pulled codes again today, and got, from the GEM, P1865 (transfer case contact plate power short to ground) P1828 (Transfer case counter clockwise shift relay coil circuit failure) P1820 (Transfer case clockwise shift relay coil circuit failure). I also got P0603 (internal control module keep alive memory (KAM) error) from the "enhanced powertrain". I have checked every fuse in both boxes, under hood and under dash, all fuses are good. I have put my dash switch in my dad's 02 with known working 4x4, no issues. I did the same with the transfer case shift relays, and the transfer case shift motor, no issues there either. I have pulled every electrical connection I can think of, associated with the 4x4 system, cleaned it and sprayed it with electrical connector cleaner and put them back together. I have even pulled the GEM out, it is nice and dry and clean, no signs of moisture or corrosion anywhere.

I am now lost. Any help would be AMAZING!

Thanks,

Baatzy
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:48 AM
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Hmmm, those 18xx codes often point to shift motor...

I'll put my thinking cap on and let ya know if anything develops as I get some caffeine in me.

Meanwhile, I hope I'm going to see the machine shop today to get one of the parts made for my adapter that will convert auto t-case to manual shift with OE shifter.
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:20 AM
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I may try to switch my dad's working shift motor on to mine, I figure something may be goofy with mine even though it worked fine on his. I am open to any other thoughts, cause I really like my 4x4 when it works.

Trust me, it is getting harder to justify this whole ESOF system, it all started out by trying to troubleshoot a vacuum leak for the hubs, now its the whole system....

Edit, Update, whatever: I also tried disconnecting the batteries for 10 minutes as suggested elsewhere, still nothing.

Thanks,

Baatzy
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:27 PM
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Any more guesses or anything? I am looking for a cliff on google maps as I type............


Just kidding, but really, she's pushing my buttons.

Baatzy
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:54 PM
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Disconnect the Shift Motor. Check Ground Wire AND system voltage. If you have both, it's the Shift Motor. You "may" be able to clean it, lube it, etc.
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:02 PM
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I have removed the shift motor and tested it on my dads truck, works fine on there.

Also, I am not sure what you mean by checking power and ground. From what I understand the circuit polarity is changed depending on which way the motor has to shift the tcase. I will hook a light between the two wires and see if anything happens when I flip the switch.

Thanks

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Old 03-11-2015, 10:02 PM
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I didn't do the light between the wires thing tonight, discovered a down calf in the middle of chores, went from 45 minutes to 2.5 hours. I will try it in the morning.

When I clear the codes and cycle the key I now get P1876 (transfer case 2-Wheel drive solenoid circuit failure), P1832 (transfer case differential lockup solenoid circuit failure), and once again, P1865 (transfer case plate power short to ground).

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  #12  
Old 03-11-2015, 10:11 PM
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Just in case:

"Mechanics look to the component. Electricians look to the wiring."

As I mentioned in this thread I had 5 bad PCM's (from a bad radiator electric auxiliary fan relay open circuit to a downstream O2 sensor open circuit, to "no can bus" to code reader unable to link with the vehicle) in my wife's Dakota -- that is until I determined it was corrosion and hardened dielectric grease in the wiring connection at the PCM. Your ESOF is no doubt controlled by the PCM too. Just a thought:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cro-files.html
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:19 PM
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Tim, when I had the PCM out last april to install my chip, everything was good there in the connector and internally and I am experiencing no other issues, currently. My GEM looks like I just pulled it off a dealership shelf, pristine with a fine layer of dust. If it is corrosion or anything bad like that in the electronic modules it is doing a great job of hiding. I've read through the thread you linked, its great info, but I haven't found any kind of anything in the electrical connectors anywhere on this truck. I've also sprayed every 4x4 system connector I can find with contact cleaner.

I am beginning to think the 4x4 harness is chafed somewhere.

I will be swapping in a guaranteed good shift motor tomorrow morning, and see if that helps. If not I don't know what else it could be, except for chafed wires somewhere...

Thanks for the input,

Baatzy
 
  #14  
Old 03-12-2015, 11:09 AM
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Well I've my dad's switch, shift relays, and shift motor in my pickup, individually and all together. No joy. Put my switch, shift relays and shift motor in my dad's pickup, works great. For the hell of it I even checked the bulbs in the dash, tested them by putting them in the SES spot, guess what, they're good as well.

I hooked a light between the two wires that power the shift motor, and got nothing. It seems to not even be sending the signal to shift, or, if it is, its not getting to the shift motor. Hmmm......

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Old 03-12-2015, 11:33 AM
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Baatzy: Here is my thread on a similar trouble shooting experience:

Basics: Is it the Elec. Motor, Wiring, Fuse, Relay or PCM?

Sportsmobileforum.com ? View topic - Basics: Is it the Elec. Motor, Wiring, Fuse, Relay or PCM?

Bottom line is that if you remove the motor relay and if you can jump the hot terminal to the motor terminal (don't do this unless you are absolutely positively sure that you are not jumping to the PCM terminal because you will fry it!) and the jump activates the motor, then it is not the fuse or wiring from the relay to the motor. Then it will be the wiring (or more likely the connector) from the PCM to the coil in the relay or the PCM itself.

I didn't read your entire thread carefully, so my thread may be off-base. But I have had to recently diagnose a no power to the fuel pump motor in my Bronco and a no power to the aux radiator fan motor in my wife's Dakota. In the Bronco, it was a defective fuel pump motor. In the Dakota, it was the female bullet connector in the PCM for the terminal which activates the coil in the aux radiator fan relay.

As I stated in a recent thread on contact cleaners and enhancers, it was not the PCM after all. It was the fan relay terminal in the 32-pin female receptical which plugs into the PCM which was corroded and had crystalized di-electric grease in it preventing it from making a good enough connection for the PCM to activate the coil in the fan relay such that the fan relay wouldn't close and energize the aux radiator fan motor.
 


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