Hello everyone, first off I want to say that I have already read these links on this forum;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tech-info.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...dana-60-a.html
I found them to be helpful. I do, still have a few questions. First off, I just bought an 89 F350 (salted winters suck) and it has everything there. My 90 F250 has the sticker that states it was built in Sept of 89. I know that it is the king pin axle in the 89 350. My first question was that a few years ago I read that the F250 TTB has the pumpkin mounting plate that must be removed. I didn't see any of that in the reading of these two links. From what I read back then, if the plate is removed it weakens the front end and can cause damage to the frame. The fix for that is to either cut off the part that mounts to the pumpkin and just leave the rest there for the structural support. The second was to remove it and have another piece manufactured and the re-install it. Is this all accurate?
Second question:
This is a quote from the link provided above; "The driver side u-bolt plate is a cast piece of metal shaped to go around the drivers axle tube and part of the pumpkin. Without it you have to have the u-bolts come up from the bottom. If the u-bolts come up from the bottom, you will need to cut notches into the cast webbing of the pumpkin to locate the ubolt, you will also need to make a top spring plate/ shock mount." I am taking everything from the 350 that pertains to the axle, so does this step matter?
Third Question: My 250 has 4:10s, and my 350 has 3:55s. My 250 has not seen salted winters, but the 350 has and my rear axle is clean. Would it be worth swapping just the gear sets and leave the axle. I have the heavy duty rear axle already, the full floating 10.25" spicer. Has anyone done this change out and if so did the fuel economy change much? I am going to take the speedometer piece from my 350 and install it on the 250 so that should take care of my speed being accurate.
Fourth Question: I want to rebuild the steering components as well as changing out the king pin bushings to reduce any possible issues. Other than changing out the lube in the axle, should I be concerned with rebuilding any internal parts; axle shafts, bearings, seals, etc?
FWIW; my F250 had the Ford locking hubs changed out to the higher quality Warn hubs, I know they will fit right in.
The fifth question: This was a quote from one of the above links; "i wouldn't esp on a a DD truck like he is going for! what I would do is go for a shackle reversal. it will add lift and smooth out the ride at the same time, plus then you can ditch your trac-bar. it'll run ya about $300 or so and then shipping but you are killing 3 birds in one stone! plus you can paint it your own colors and be really unique!
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/"
Sort of confused on this one, can someone please clarify?

For now, my last question for this post deals with the rear brakes. I am contemplating converting the rear brakes to disc, is there a kit available, or has anyone ever done this?

BTW, I actually saved the article on installing a Dana 60 on an F250 in a word document, if any one wants to see it please let me know.

 

They are referring to a RSK(reverse Shackle Kit) You can do it to gain about 2.5" of lift and it helps the ride out but it is not necessary. Also the sky kit does NOT come with the piece you need to box the frame ORU makes the same RSK but it comes with the pieces to box the frame

 

the only thing needed to make the speedometer read correctly is the proper toothed gear on the end of the cable going into the transfer case tail shaft.

 

Diesel Brad, thank you for the answers. To be frank, when I read that from an online "how to" the person doing the work made the comment: "Once the old IFS axle is removed you'll have to remove the cross member to axle brackets to make room for the Dana 60. There were two brackets which unbolted and came off with no problems. A third, on the drivers side, is riveted and bolted to the frame near the engine mount. It also appears to provide structural support to the engine mount. You may wish to grind down the rivets and remove the bracket altogether, however we felt it best to leave it in place and grind down the part that would interfere with the Dana 60, see the following pictures. But if you do this you can't go back, so understand the consequences before getting out the grinder."


I looked at the cross member and it is not a flimsy piece of metal that is under there. But, because I have not done this before, I figured it is best to ask a dumb question then to not and then have to deal with the results if it was good information.


I see your point about just cleaning up the axle. If I do not like the 3:55 gear set it would be easier to just swap out the axle again rather than changing the gear set. Though I have not swapped a gear set, I am mechanically inclined, and as long as I have the manual I am not afraid to tackle almost anything. As far as tools go, I have a lot and if I am missing a puller or something, I figure I can pick up another tool, and more than likely I will use it again in the future... I appreciate your help in answering my questions. Now is the time to get the parts I want to get to replace the seals and the steering components.

 

setting up gears is not something a backyard mechanic can do. most gas station mechanics can not do it because it takes special knowledge to set the backlash and bearing preloads properly. plus you need some rarely used speciality tools like dial indicators.

 

Setting up gears isn't voodoo. You absolutely can do it yourself, if you're willing to learn. Yea you need a dial indicator, and either have to have have access to a press or pay someone to do that part.

It's not any more difficult than rebuilding an engine or transmission. Buy a book, read the specs, hit the specs. Done.

 

... but like rebuilding an engine, if you are on an internet forum asking if you can, you probably can't. But DRD is right, if you know what you're doing (or are willing to do the research and buy the tools necessary) it ain't rocket science.

 

true. but it is easier and cheaper to just pay someone and get it done properly and faster than learning how to do it.
i can do it, and have set up a few without problems.
but i have found it is also easier to just pay the $150 and pick it up the next day.

 

You may run into a clearance problem with the F350 CV drive shaft on the transfer case yoke. I did the D60 conversion on my Rustoleum truck, but didn't have the F350 CV drive shaft. Shortening the F250 shaft 1.5" worked just fine. Here is what firewood truck said during my conversion...

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</td></tr></tbody></table><!-- / user info --> </td></tr><tr><td class="alt1" id="td_post_11038618"><!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- message --> When I did the D60 conversion on my '90 F250, I ended up having to shorten the front drive shaft 1.5". I have the same amount of cross member clearance that you show in your pic. I wanted to use the CV driveshaft that came w/ the D60 but it wouldn't fit the yoke on the TC so I had to use the original driveshaft that on the truck. I haven't had a single vibration issue or anything else, it works like it's supposed to.
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, but only slightly. [Transponder squawking "7500"]


Can anyone find a picture of the filler piece to box the frame? I already bought the Sky RSK, and I'm waffling between three options for boxing the frame, as follow:
1. See if ORU will sell the part separately. (I understand why they might not, and wouldn't blame them at all.)
2. Salvage whatever I need off of a 4WD F350 donor frame to be able to weld it to my 2WD F350 frame.
3. Design my own and weld it onto my 2WD F350 frame.


Pictures of what other folks have done would also be greatly appreciated. I have found a few, but more is better in this case.


[Reset transponder, now squawking "1200"]

 

A simple plate welded to the frame is all you need, you can see it in the ORU kit. But, more importantly, what year is your truck? The 92 and up frames are already boxed. You only need to mod the frame on 91 and down trucks. There are a few pictures floating around on the web and here on FTE showing the boxing required. I had the same questions as I am doing the RSK to my 88 soon.
Another question, did you get the RSK kit for stock springs or SD springs. I don't know if the ORU boxing plate would be in the correct spot for SD springs.

 

I got the stock spring version. To be honest, I haven't looked at the frame on my truck. It is a stock 2WD 1997 F350 CCLB SRW.