my son's 77 F250 4x4, body and paint
#16
03-11-2015, 05:33 PM
You sure could. I used to use a 3/8" pilot point bit in a regular drill for spot welds. Just try to be careful with the depth. Try to pop the bedside flange loose with a channel lock pliers before attempting splitting with chissles. The long seam on the top of the bedside is a lot of spot welds but its the most accessible portion of what you will have to split. The rest are up front (behind cab), the wheel arch to wheel house (wheel house might need replacing or repair also) and the tail light portion.
None of it is fun.
Lol.
None of it is fun.
Lol.
#17
03-11-2015, 10:56 PM
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#18
03-12-2015, 12:47 PM
Hey, nice job so far. Question on the bed side R&R, is it feasible for a "non-body work" guy to drill off his own bed side and take it to a shop to have them install the new one? Would this be worth it to save some $? One thing I do have is more time than $. I have lots of experience with riveted boats which would seem somewhat similar (as far as the drilling out).
It's a 78 LB, passenger side, with the tool box. Tore up fairly bad on the part after the wheel wheel to the tail light., including some "open wounds" (i.e. would need welding there).
Thanks and good luck with the project.
BB
It's a 78 LB, passenger side, with the tool box. Tore up fairly bad on the part after the wheel wheel to the tail light., including some "open wounds" (i.e. would need welding there).
Thanks and good luck with the project.
BB
#19
03-12-2015, 01:20 PM
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Thanks,
BB
#20
03-12-2015, 01:42 PM
#21
03-15-2015, 09:06 AM
#22
03-15-2015, 10:22 AM
#23
03-15-2015, 10:44 AM
Office door on the left, bathroom on the right.
The bed sides and other parts are supposed to arrive tomorrow so we will likely work more on the bed today, get it ready to hang the new sides.
(Coming from LMC)
#25
03-15-2015, 12:45 PM
#26
03-15-2015, 03:04 PM
Elder User
#28
03-15-2015, 04:37 PM
#29
03-16-2015, 03:22 PM
