1987 F150 4X4 problems: locking hubs, duel tanks, sending units
Topic: 1987 F150 4X4 problems, locking hubs, fuel sending unit, dual tank switch.
I am the original owner of a 1987 F150 4X4 with manual locking hubs, they are the flange style hubs. The hub is all one peice and has a flange that goes over the lug bolts, the wheel goes up against the flange to hold it on. The locking hub **** has a screw in the center to hold it on.
I noticed the plastic **** has been hot and melted. I took the hub apart and it is well greased and there is no bad parts except for the melted ****. The internal parts work fine. This is the first time this hub has ever been apart, I have not had it locked in for several months. I used a bar to try and move the short outer axle up and down, it only has a small amount of movement, so I assume the inner bearing is fine.
This is a Spicer/Dana 44 IFS, the tag number is: 3:54 E7TA GB, the Dana Bill of Material number is: 610267-3.
What would cause this **** to get hot and melt?
I need the plastic **** only, I called my local Ford dealer and they say they only sell the complete hub, part # E7TZ3B396A, $263.38.
Does anyone know if the **** can be bought seperately and what the part number is?
I am a retired driveshaft specialist, I owned a shop that specialized in drivetrain parts and repair. We were Spicer/Dana and Warn distributors, along with many other manufactures. When in the business I ordered parts for these type hubs thru Spicer/Dana and Warn.
This hub came on the truck as original equipment, but it is made by Warn, the Warn hub model is M236. Warn says they do not sell any parts for it and you have to go through Ford. Does anyone know if there is a Warn part number for the **** only?
Does anyone out there have a new or used one of these *****, or know where I can get one?
My gas gauge is eratic, I have dual tanks. I took the sending unit out of the tank and the wireing coil on the sending unit "chip" is worn, causeing the gauge to be eratic. I have checked with Ford and they say the only way to get the sending unit is I have to buy the complete fuel pump, which has the sending unit on it.
Does anyone out there know of someone that sells the sending unit or "chip" only?
Is there other sources besides Ford that sell the complete pump and sending unit? ( if I have to go that route)
I am having trouble switching from one tank to the other. When I switch to the rear tank the gauge indicates that it is useing the rear tank, but really it is useing from the front tank. I know this because I can switch to the front tank and see it going down, and the rear tank stays full. I go to the gas station and put gas in the front tank, but the rear tank is full and will not take any gas.
Is my switch bad?
Is the switch on the dash causeing this, or is there one located somewhere else?
I have rebuilt the power window motors and gear box on the power window motors, if anyone would like to know how to do this and where to get the parts, I would be glad to email them the info.
I appreciate your help with these problems, I am a new member, and do not know how often I will be able to check this forum, please email me at: us6jxd(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Thank you, Marion.
If you are looking for good 4x4 parts check out MudPuddle in So.Holland Ill,,Or GodMudders in Midlothian Ill..They have always been helpful..They are fabricating a 10 inch suspention lift for me..Alog with supplying triple shock towers,and costom rims...and if you are looking for someone to do any body work check out Broadway auto Glass in Merrilliville in..They do alot of Glass and body work and Grafics...All these guys all had part in my 4x4 and I wouldnt give it up for nothin now...If you need any #'s e-mail me.Wfordrox@yahoo .com
I think I have the plastic **** for the for your lockout I have to check I have one from a prevously owned truck Ill check tonite.
As far as the fuel sending chip don't know
For the switching problem look at the diverter it should be right in front of the second tank with wires going to it,I am not sure how they work but I think you should be able to look at it and figure it out. they need to be switched often to keep them working properly.The truck I have the lockout from had the same problem and the previous owner bypassed it and I left it.
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