I have not tried to tune it, honestly I wouldnt know where to begin to do it. Yeah Gruesome that is why I am worried to do it myself I dont want to mess it up and then it cost me alot more.

 

I'm more worried about making myself look stupid for screwing up a carb rebuild. Been there once. I can afford a new carb but I like the older Carter.

 

Carter AFB is an Edelbrock Performer, just saying.

May as well start with tuning, may not even need a rebuild.

I can meet up with you and tune it in all of about 5 minutes usually. Also try and find a Hw-to I wrote on carb tuning a little bit ago and post it in here.

 

This set of instructions is for not having a Tach or Vacuum Gauge, having either of these makes it easier and a Vacuum Gauge is the Best way to tune short of O2 Sensors/Gauges and/or Dyno Tuning.
Identify where your Idle Set screw is, your Idle Mixture screws and your Distributor Hold-Down bolt.
Get the vehicle to running temperature (when choke is fully off). Lower the idle just to where it's no longer smooth. Turn one Idle Mixture screw in/out 1/2 turn to see which direction the idle the idle lowers and which direction it increases, you will then turn it the direction it Increases and it will increase- steady- decrease, when it starts to decrease turn it back until you have it at the Highest RPM. Turn the Idle Set screw down so the engine is back at the RPM you started with then repeat the process for your other Idle Mixture screw. After both are set and the idle lowered then Remove/Plug the Vacuum Advance line for the Distributor. Loosen the Distributor Hold Down bolt just enough that the Distributor will turn with your hand, slowly and slightly rotate the distributor so the engine Gains RPM. Similar as the Carb you will rotate it until you are at the highest RPM and then turn it back roughly an 1/8th of a turn and retighten the Hold-Down bolt and reconnect the vacuum advance line. Adjust your idle so the vehicle is running smoothly, if you have an Automatic then turn it up a little more. If you shut the vehicle off and upon restarting it cranks Very slow then you have the timing a little too far advanced. Take the vehicle for a test drive and carefully listen for any Pinging/Spark-Knock etc, you will most likely have to turn Distributor back more as doing in this method will usually have you a touch too far Advanced and will need to back it off in very small increments until the Pinging is gone.

 

That's a very good and easy to understand write up. I need to reseal my intake first but the timing thing will help me soon. I had it set enough to run with my huge vacuum leaks, then screwed with it cause I thought it was causing my no start problem. Now wherever its set isn't even enough to run without pushing the pedal. Small issue. I figure after the brakes I'll tackle the engine.

I thought Carter was before Edlebrocks time?

 

Carter was before, Edelbrock bought the rights to the design.

If you look at an Edelbrock it has a few stamping on it, Webber being one of them.

Re-sealing the intake is less of a headache than trying to drive with Vacuum Leaks, just saying. You can also improve things with Porting the Manifold while it's off, there's a lot of small improvements to be made even in the Water Ports, I went all out on mine and have 10 hours of porting but it was worth the results.

 

I've actually got a friend in the biz who ports and polishes heads and intakes. He's wiling to do work for cheap for friends. I planned to have him do his thing on my intake. However, my water ports don't really matter, they don't have anything going through them, the 351m has dry heads.

Resealing it is a good plan and its something I want to do but I figured you have been waiting to get that master and booster out of the shop so if I can limp it there, do that and limp it home, I can work on the intake myself. Its easier now that I know how to do it.
In speaking of the brakes, I was gonna ask about a supply list. I wanted to wait on the lines and everything else, and just get the master and booster done.

 

Welcome aboard! I sure like your '66

 

Dylan, the Master/Booster doesn't take up much space and the sho looks like a warzone anyways so may as well do the intake first. That way you can also collect your parts for the rest of the brake system and we can do it all in one shot.

 

I'm not entire sure what other parts I need aside from calipers and pads. My other concern is time, I'll likely be trying for Wednesdays when I have the night off. Otherwise I'll have to take a day off. I'm not sure how long something like this can take but I'm hoping it wouldn't be all day.

As for the intake, that wouldn't be too hard to do. I had planned on talking to a friend about polishing it. He does headwork for a living, valves, port/polish, etc. He can give me a good deal for side work.

 

You ever tune your carb?

Dylan- we could always leave your Bronco here and you can come out on a couple Wednesdays or something to get it done. On week nights I'm available at 6pm usually but in a couple weeks my schedule will be wide open as Rebecca's Session job is about over. I am booked up solid for a weekends for a bit with the Pressure Washing and that's also created a lot of other work.

 

My carb? I've toyed with it. Not recently though. I just got the gaskets and in the morning I'll be swapping that out. I don't have a vacuum gauge, ment to buy one and I forgot... But, I can set the base tuning I think. Plus, the write up you did will help. I've got a timing light so that's covered, and with the vacuum leaks fixed, I should be able to tune it better.

 

I was referring to Fezzick and his carb, his thread kinda got hijacked so trying to at least mention what he has going on in my comments. haha-sorry

Ya, there's no point in Tuning with vacuum leaks. If you take your time and do it by ear there is no need for a vacuum gauge, can usually get it very close without one. Which is what you could do then we can use the vacuum gauge and engine analyzer to tune it in more when you bring it over for the brakes, unless you want to own a vacuum gauge. Timing light is a complete waste of time unless you're working on a computer controlled vehicle that needs the base timing set to an exact number.

 

Ah gotcha, yeah sorry Fezzick

As for timing, the only thing I've been taught is to set the timing to factory marks. BruteFord had tried to teach me about pinging and hard starts but I'm not so smart and didn't really get it.
I did pick up a gauge, and I'd like to learn tune using it. I watched a YouTube video and it seems pretty straight forward but I'm not real sure what in-lbs I'm aiming for. I've tried tuning by ear and I think I can get it close. If I've cured my vacuum leak problem then I should be able to get it close.

 

You're trying to get the highest Vacuum reading you can, simply put, simple as that.

The Write-up I posted and what you'll be doing with the Vacuum Gauge is just he Idle Mixture, full blown tuning of a carb/distributor is a lot more in depth and time consuming but for the most part the average person will be pleased if just the initial tune is correct. Unless you're using a carb that has been jetted for a motor that's is a lot bigger/smaller or has been tuned for a performance engine then the jets should be close enough to run just fine.