I have a 1997 Ford explorer I'm having trouple diagnosing why it's not starting. It has 4.0 v6 manual trans. I thought starter had went back but took it out and had it tested at advanced auto. They said it was good, so I replaced starter solenoid which was only $15 but that didn't help.. battery is good. When I try to start I can hear click and then it cranks and then whines. I think whine is coming from solenoid or starter.. I even tried to jump solenoid on fender which I replaced and same thing happened.. the only way I can get it running is by push starting it cause it's a manual trans.. when it's running it sounds great, no odd noises or check engine light.. Where do u think my problem is coming from? I don't know if it could be a crank sensor cause when it runs it won't die till I turn it off, and I'm not sure what fuses do what but they all seemed good by visual inspection.
I first noticed problem on cold morning I would turn key and not get anything.. just radio, lights worked. I would have to work key a few times b4 it would start. The problem soon got worse so I ran a togel switch from fender solenoid and would always try key first, but if that didn't work I would just jump it. Then after work one day I couldn't get it to start by jumping solenoid or key. I ended up push starting it to get it home. That's when I replaced solenoid, but still won't hardly ever start, and when it does start I can let it run and idle and drive with no problems, but once I kill engine it won't start again till it feels like it or till I push start it. Any ideas what could be causing this problem. If you think you can help I can e-mail a video of me attempting to start it so you can hear whine and other sounds. Ty in advance

 

Based on your description, it sounds like the starter Bendix is not staying engaged. Maybe you have a loose or dirty connection to the starter, the electromagnet of the solenoid is faulty that engages the Bendix, or the grease is tacky and provides too much strain on the Bendix to properly engage.

Since a toggle switch seemed to work reliably for awhile, I'm leaning a bit more toward a loose or dirty connection.

-Rod

 

I think I would start with the wiring going to the starter. Clean and check the wires and check the voltage as well.

 

How do I go about testing the cables? With red lead on positive end and black on negative end of cables going to the Starter I still read 12.4 with key on off. With ground lead on ground cable, and positive lead on other little wire that plugs into starter I ranged from 0.4-0.6 volts. With key on run position battery cables dropped to 11.8, other wire stayed the same.

 

How do I go about testing voltage with the cables? I had red lead on positive end and black on negative end of cables going to the Starter I still read 12.4 with key on off. With ground lead on ground cable, and positive lead on other little wire that plugs into starter I ranged from 0.4-0.6 volts. With key on run position battery cables dropped to 11.8, other wire stayed the same.

 

The little wire, the trigger, should have battery voltage when the ignition switch is in the Start position. That's what tells the starter motor to spin and engage. If you do not get voltage to that wire when the key is in the Start position, then you need to start tracing that circuit backwards toward the key.

If the starter motor is spinning though, that trigger wire is getting voltage. From how I interpreted your original post, the starter motor is spinning up (the "whines"), it's just not engaging the flywheel and turning the engine over. If this interpretation is correct, and because you can push start it, that says it's not the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or the trigger circuit to the starter motor. Monitoring to see how low the voltage on the fat wire to the starter motor drops to when the key is in the Start position and the black meter lead is on the starter ground/housing is about the only voltage measurement of interest. If that voltage drops below 10 Volts, then connect the black meter lead directly to battery negative and take the same measurement. If you have a significantly higher reading (better than 10.5VDC), then you probably have a loose or dirty ground connection. If the voltage is still low, your battery is either insufficiently charged or the battery is weak. If the voltage is higher than 10.5 even when using the ground at the starter, then the starter motor assembly is the likely culprit.

-Rod

 

I tested the two cables going to starter. I'm getting 12.4 volts with key off and 11.9 volts with key on run. is that to high? If not Could I have a cracked flywheel? I hear it's not uncommon for these trucks to break them. I seen some wear on teeth, none broke, but can only get it to turn so far b4 I can't turn it anymore.. (by crank pulley) I also tested trigger wire with red lead and black lead on thick/ grounded cable I was only reading low volts. Like 0.4 should I start by tracing trigger wire or pulling back bell housing to get a better look at flywheel?

 

The key in Run is different from the Start position. The starter is only engaged when the key is in the Start position. You need to make the voltage checks while the key is in the Start position. You should make these checks before worrying too much about a flywheel issue.

If you're really concerned about a damaged flywheel, pull all the spark plugs, then remove the starter and spin the engine by hand while watching the flywheel for damaged or missing teeth. You'll want to mark a tooth where you start so you know when you've completed one full revolution.

-Rod

 

I am really thinking this is a bendix issue.

 

Sorry shorod, I didn't know about run and start giving different readings. I'm working on this alone, so guess I'll need some help for someone to hold on start while I'm getting volt readings.. I will let you know on my Lunch break tmmrw. I'll get someone to ride home with me and help me test. If readings are good I guess I could buy a new starter and put it in to see if bendex is issue and return it after cleaning relay good if that don't fix either.. ;-)
With out spark plugs removed, but with starter off I did try to turn engine manually but could only only go so far b4 it seemed to lock up on me, so I could only turn it the other way.. until just passed mark I made with paint stick, then it would get stuck again.. I'm a welder fabricator, not a mechanic.. and electrical problems are my least favorite. I really do appreciate your patience and time given to help resolve this issue.

 

If your multimeter has a Min feature and alligator clips for the probes it would be possible to take the Start measurements by yourself, but having two people to take the readings is still a better situation.

As for trying to spin the engine with the spark plugs still installed - you're building compression with the plugs still in so that's why you're only able to turn the engine a short amount before it seems to lock up. It basically is locking up due to the compression. With the plugs out you won't be building that compression.

-Rod

 

You would need to put a large breaker bar with a socket on the end of the crank to turn it over by hand.

 

got the wiring test done. With key is start still had good battery cables because they'rd getting power. When I checked trigger wire I was still reading low.. between 0.2 -0.5. Also checked flywheel and didn't feel or see any broken teeth or cracks. Few worn spots on few teeth but nothing major..

Should I start tracing trigger wire? Or does that lead to a relay which could be bad? If I can't have this fixed by this weekend then Saturday going have to push start it and take it into Ford and see what they can find. Hopefully the won't kill me on a quote.. X-P

 

There is a starter relay that will feed that trigger wire. If the wire is good from the relay and the relay is not getting triggered, then you should check your clutch safety switch at the clutch pedal.

You could run a fused jumper lead to the starter solenoid in place of that trigger to confirm that the starter will engage and run that way. Be sure the truck is not in gear and tires are chocked.

In your original post you mentioned the starter will crank and then whines. That would not be explained by the (current) lack of voltage on the trigger.

-Rod

 

Just in case they need replaced, Where is starter relay located that feeds the trigger wire? And how hard is clutch saftry switch to change?