1952 F6 "Virginia" build thread
#1
1952 F6 "Virginia" build thread
I am thoroughly impressed and somewhat overwhelmed by some of the build threads I have been reading. This is my first restoration, I took an auto body class as a kid for fun but have no idea what I am doing overall. i also am not a good welder. But, with the help of this forum and over the course of this restoration I hope to get better at all of it. I don't expect to make the fast progress many make - slow and steady.
I had a 1952 Ford F1 that I bought in Austin Texas in the 1990's. I moved to Phoenix Az and decided I needed a truck with air conditioning so I sold it. Regretted it ever since. Been kinda looking the last few years just to see what was out there. Then this 1952 F6 showed up on Craigslist around the corner from me.
Took me three weeks to get it home - had to borrow a truck and trailer to get it.
The truck is the long wheel base. I think it is in very good condition - not so bad that I can't handle it. I bought it before hearing it run but when I went to pick it up the owner had gotten it running. The fuel pump wasn't working so he gravity fed fuel from a bottle. Run good considering. Also there was no radiator in it so we only ran it for short bursts. Not sure I can get these videos to work. If not I included a link.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vP9A_nqzjwQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Video loading it on the trailer
<iframe width="854" height="510" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ja_2Sp0EWkk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Another video lining it up with the trailer.
loaded on the trailer
Loaded
Unloading
Unloaded
I had a 1952 Ford F1 that I bought in Austin Texas in the 1990's. I moved to Phoenix Az and decided I needed a truck with air conditioning so I sold it. Regretted it ever since. Been kinda looking the last few years just to see what was out there. Then this 1952 F6 showed up on Craigslist around the corner from me.
Took me three weeks to get it home - had to borrow a truck and trailer to get it.
The truck is the long wheel base. I think it is in very good condition - not so bad that I can't handle it. I bought it before hearing it run but when I went to pick it up the owner had gotten it running. The fuel pump wasn't working so he gravity fed fuel from a bottle. Run good considering. Also there was no radiator in it so we only ran it for short bursts. Not sure I can get these videos to work. If not I included a link.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vP9A_nqzjwQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Video loading it on the trailer
<iframe width="854" height="510" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ja_2Sp0EWkk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Another video lining it up with the trailer.
loaded on the trailer
Loaded
Unloading
Unloaded
#3
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#8
The fuel problem may not be the fuel pump. You may have crud in the tank and/or fuel lines blocking the fuel from the pump. I'd check that before trying to start it with other than the gravity feed.
However, when trying to start it initially, we were using a small gas can as the "tank" and a new piece of hose between the tank and fuel pump. So while the tank and / or fuel lines may have issues, it wasn't what was stopping the fuel pumping to the carb in this case.
#9
#11
I'm between Richmond and Williamsburg just off I64. Looks like your North. Probably less than 2 hrs. Maybe as I get into it we can meet up.
#12
Mine's a F-1 so I don't have any experience with the drive train, but I rewired my truck, and did lots of body work. Certain areas will typically be rusted before others. Where the lower and upper fender pieces come together is a prime area for rust. I had to put in some patch panels there on mine. Welding skills required. I don't know how much experience you have for this project, but I'd be happy to help. Good luck with it.
#13
Question: The frame on my F6 has a double wall - a channel inside the channel. At least it is like that until the rear axle. It looks like there is some rust between the channels. what is the best way to treat that rust - in others words what is the best way to get in that gap between the channels. See pictures below.
#14
Well, the only way to get rid of the rust would be to take them apart, but that is not at all practical. Because the steel is very thick, a good sandblast and then a rust inhibitor like Por 50, or Eastwood sells a rust inhibitor in spray or apply with a brush. It's never going to look like new, just get rid of what you can and coat over it with product of your choice. It may need re coating at some point, but it should last a long time. I'm sure others will chime in about which product they prefer, but that is the gist of it.
#15