1982 inline 6 300 I had the Carb rebuilt but when i put it back on the truck it was off timing in the distributor. So when I tried to crank it it back popped through the Carb and I thought it ruptured the diaphram in the Carb be cause I would have to prime it to start it. So I replaced it and to be on the. Safe side put a new fuel pump on it. It's still doing it it idles up and down and sometimes I have to hols the gas and it still pops back up through the Carb but only when it's cold when it's hot it runs great doesn't have a skip nothing seems to be wrong I would drive it up and down the road and it would do great it was just a pain to get started and if I tried to use the choke it would make it worse. So yesterday I was going to get some gas in it hit forth gear and it backfired and started running terrible So I got it back home and if I wasn't on the gas it would cut off but when I started it back up it would idle just fine. I really don't no what to do? Also problem #2 I put a new voltage regulator and alternator and battery and if I turn my headlights on my voltage Gage drops and if I turn the fan on to it really drops nothing goes dim but I just think it's normal and my battery just doesn't seem to last any help on these problems would be great

 

There are a couple things to check. First is that the timing is correct.
If you have a slipped harmonic balancer (which is common on an older vehicle), your timing marks won't line up and your timing won't be what you think it is.
To test your harmonic balancer, pull the #1 spark plug and then rotate the engine until you can see the piston raise up as high as it will go.
Now look at your timing mark. It should be lined up with 0. A couple degrees off is fine (like 2 - 3, since you may not have perfectly nailed the piston at its highest point), but if the mark is way off, or no where to be seen, your harmonic balancer has slipped and it will need to be replaced very soon.

You can also time your engine with a vacuum gauge to be sure it's timed properly.


However, it sounds like you probably have some really bad vacuum leaks. Do you still have all of the color coded plastic vacuum lines? If so, I would recommend replacing every vacuum line in your engine with fresh, new rubber lines. I imagine you'll notice a huge difference. I used to have popping, backfiring, and driving problems until I did. It made a huge difference in how my engine ran.

Once you've done that, and all your vacuum lines are good and fresh, get your engine running, and spray around the base of the carburetor and the intake-to-head surfaces with carburetor cleaner and listen for stumbles or changes in RPM. If you do, you've found another vacuum leak and will need to deal with that. The long intake/exhaust of the 300 have a way of warping after lots of years of use and will need to be resurfaced.


As for your battery, that's a whole different subject. I'd recommend posting that in the forum for the body of the truck instead of the engine. Although, I'm sure plenty here could help you with that too. You'd just get better answers in a forum about your body of truck (since it's not an engine issue).


1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

thank you for replying my timing issue is in my distributor and ive been tinkering with it and have gotten the engine running alot better and as far as vacuum lines go ive got one color vacuum line that goes from the carb. all the other ones where very brittle and broke years ago the only other vacuum lines i have are the ones coming from the pcv and the brake booster do you no where i could find a vacuum diagram and also could a lack of vacuum lines cause blow by because my engine has got it all of a sudden.

 

Just for future reference, posts like that are extremely difficult to read and are very likely to discourage people who may be able to help you from reading your posts. The easier you make it for people to read your posts, the more help you'll get. I guarantee it.


How do you know your timing issue is in the distributor?
What does the one color coded vacuum line go to? I'd simply recommend replacing it as well. Even if it hasn't broken yet, it can still get hairline cracks in it that will leak.

There should be a vacuum diagram on the radiator support up by the hood latch.

A lack of vacuum lines wouldn't cause blow-by "all of the sudden". Blow by is a gradual thing that happens from the rings wearing out and allowing pressure to move past the rings and into the valve cover. However, you may have symptoms of blow-by from a faulty PCV system.

 

The last color code vacuum line goes from my Carb to my distributor. And Yes it does have blow by all of a sudden this is the second straight six in this truck it dropped a valve one day lost a ton if power and started the blow by issue my old motor had the same problem. It had all the rings stuck in the first cylinder. This just came out of no where I replaced the head and the blow by continued replaced the pcv too didn't fix it. i run a compression test all cylinders where good. It was running fine when I threw the other motor in I've just been having problems since I dropped the valve
. The harmonic timing is dead on because I thought it may have jumped a timing gear. I have to time my distributor by ear by losening and turning it and it has gotten alot better since I fooled around with it today. I don't have a vacuum diagram,.the sticker is long gone and I don't no if it's a Carb or a vacuum problem

 

The line from the carb to the distributor is your vacuum advance. If there's leaks in that, your advance isn't going to be working right, which will affect performance. However, there shouldn't be any vacuum in that line at idle since it doesn't come in until the throttle opens.

As far as the blow by, I have no idea, unless your PCV hose is bad. I had that issue, with the hose having rotted and would pinch shut under high vacuum.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? Hook it up to direct manifold vacuum. Disconnect your vacuum advance (cap it), and then advance your distributor until the vacuum no longer increases. Now retard the timing until the vacuum drops to around 1 - 1 1/2 hg below the max you were able to get. That'll set your timing pretty much perfect.

 

if you are going to keep this truck , do yourself a favor and get rid of the computer controlled carb and convert to a duraspark 2 ignition.
I have a 1979 carb on mine idles great,
used to run up and down like it had a cam...now it runs like it should.

 

The '82 wouldn't have a computer controlled carb unless someone modified it. They didn't add that until '84.