I have a 00 ranger XLT 3.0l flex that has been giving me issues lately. Now has 165k miles on it, had some bad luck last year sucked a valve and threw a piston. Had that rebuilt, haven't been getting mileage like I was (currently averaging 12-14mpg) and the truck is just a dog. I have 31" tires on it so I was expecting power loss but not this much. It had better power before the rebuild (which I'm assuming consisted of just replacing the damaged piston, valves, and they resurfaced the head supposedly). The rebuild has a 36k mile warranty. Also, it sounds like the lifters are ticking but the shop that did the rebuild said it wasn't anything bad and even tried telling me it was noisy U-joints on the driveshaft. Retards. I told them it was RPM dependent, I'm not stupid when it comes to mechanics and have a somewhat decent knowledge about cars.

Anyways on to the issue. I was drove 75 miles to Amargosa dunes to ride for the day, and on the way back the truck just shut off while doing 65mph. I had noticed power was a little weaker than usual but just thought it was the elevation or something. I didn't think much of it at the time. But, i wasn't pushing the truck hard at all, and it just shut off. My battery voltage is good, alternator is good, but the truck just shut down and won't start. When I turn the key past ignition to actually start the truck, it does absolutely nothing. No clicking, no light dimming, nothing. I don't think there was a CEL but I'll double check. I read somewhere that if theres no light dimming when trying to engage the starter that its a possible bad ignition switch so I replaced that and am having the same problem. Also my fuses checked out fine, none blown or burned. Starter is getting 12v constant, i haven't been able to check anything further on the starter as I've been working on the truck by myself and haven't had anybody to turn the key while I'm testing the starter. Also, normally when the key would be turned to ignition you can hear some noises that the truck makes. Possibly the fuel pump "priming" for lack of a better word, and some electrical "clicking" noises. These aren't there anymore, there are no noises at all.

What do you think could be the problem?

 

Start with the basics, i.e., fuel, spark and compression.

You say you don't hear any noises now when you turn the key to the "start" position, but that you used to hear something. This could be a sign that the fuel pump is not priming (that is the correct term) which might indicate that the fuel pump (or related circuitry) is on the blink.

Have you checked for fuel at the fuel rail? There is a test port on the fuel rail that looks like what you would see on a tire stem, it's called a Schrader valve.

It might be a good idea to rent a fuel pressure tester and do a thorough fuel pressure check.

After checking for fuel, you'll want to test for spark. Then compression.

 

I was definitely leaning towards this being an electrical problem. I tried turning headlights on then turning key from ignition to start the truck, no clicks or anything and headlights didn't dim one bit. Could this be a short in the wiring harness?

I will check the fuel rail.

And I have been wanting to check fuel pressure since the truck is old and is probably in need of a new pump or filter. Wouldn't be surprised if that filter is nearly clogged but the truck has never had any issues starting. Only thing recently that it had been doing was idling as if it had a sticky injector. I ran some lucas oil injector cleaner through it before I filled up and headed out to Amargosa. It did not seem to help the rough/somewhat choppy idle this time but has before.

 

^+1 on testing for fuel pressure & spark. Seeing as how you say its been down on power & with 145K on it without a fuel filter change that Ford has scheduled for 30K intervals, I'd consider moving the clogged fuel filter idea up to the top of your suspect list. Harbor Freight has one for about $20 that'll work ok if we apply ribbon dope to its threaded hose connections so they won't weep.
We can quickly & safely perform a spark test with our inductive timing light on any easy to get at spark plug wire.
Keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

How can I test for fuel pressure and spark when the truck won't even turn over? Kinda seems like I need to get the starter working before any of those come into play

 

Woops, I missed the it won't crank part back where you were talking about the lights not dimming when you try to crank the engine & having 12 volts to the starter.
Right now it kinda sounds like you may have more than one problem. The engine having wimpy power, it suddenly stopped running & the starter not wanting to crank the engine, but it has 12 volts to it.
On the no crank problem, seeing as how the engine has recently been worked on, make sure the battery cable connections are clean, bright & Tight.
If you've been having problems with it cranking, try thumping the starter motor with a piece of wood, or wiggle its electrical connections & see if it'll wake up & crank the engine. Also try cranking with the shifter in "N" in case you have a TRS problem.
Wimpy engine power can be caused by low battery voltage to the fuel pump, weak fuel pump motor, clogged pump pre-filter sock, clogged fuel filter, or maybe you kinked a fuel line in your off road foray.
When it stopped running, were the dash warning lights lit????
I agree its a good idea to scan for trouble codes & post All code clue Numbers found.

 

Another good, informative post paw paw.

I missed the part about it not cranking, too. (I hope that doesn't mean we're getting old )

What's got me puzzled is the sudden and complete shut-down of the motor, immediately followed by the no-crank situation. If it were just one thing or the other that would be more straightforward to diagnosis, I have to think. But both the shut-down and the no-crank together has me scratching my head. I know that, on the older DIS ignition systems, loss of the crankshaft signal would shut the system down and cause a no-start. But you could still crank the engine...it just wouldn't start in the absence of the crank signal. As you know, the EDIS ignition system (like what the OP's '00 Ranger has) uses a different kind of crank sensor, and I'm not sure if the same thing applies, or if the PCM prohibits the system from even cranking.

 

I checked the terminals and everything looks good. As for voltage, I have a decent stereo in the truck and am running two Optima Blue tops, and all cells check out. Connections are good and strong.

Where should I check after the battery for good connections? Possible engine wiring harness is damaged/dirty?

If the key is turned to ignition, should the fuel pump be seeing 12v? Where could I test voltage to pump without having to pull the bed off?

As for dash lights, nothing came on or flashed. Same lights when it shut down as when the truck is just sitting and I have ignition on. I had already tried starting it in neutral and nothing changed from trying in park.
The truck has really never been beaten up off road. I've always taken care of it. Truck has never been air borne, bottomed out, over revved, over heated or ran low on oil. I have a guy coming out either today or tomorrow to hook his computer stuff up to it to see if he can find anything wrong.

Anything else I could check or diagnose?

 

This has really got me stumped; the sudden shut down kinda made me lean towards the ignition switch going bad so I changed that, is it a possibility that was bad and from rain/wet roads the starter solenoid went out as well just in coincidental timing?
On the way out to Amargosa it was raining pretty hard and the roads were wet. I didn't go through any mud puddles or even rain puddles for that matter.

 

Regarding possible water intrusion, there have been some reported issues with a large electrical connector that is associated with a multitude of different circuits which is located under the driver's seat on your 2000.

See: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - 2000 Ford Ranger Overdrive light flashing

It might be worth taking a look at it.

 

OK good feedback on the stall conditions & your trouble shooting.
When I said dash lights I should have said dash warning lights & if I read your reply correctly you say they were lit when the stall happened & if that's so, look for a fuel delivery interruption problem.


When checking fuel pump operating voltage, it & most of the fuel pump wiring can be checked for goodness at the in cabin inertia/fuel pump cutoff switch, located in the passenger side footwell on the firewall at the carpet line.
Make sure its not tripped, its little red post atop the switch will pop up & show its self if its been kicked by a size 12 & tripped!!!! It has one B+ wire in from the under hood power distribution box located power relay (good idea to put this relay on your suspect list as they often cause problems). If your inertia switch voltage check doesn't pan out, maybe swap it for a known good like one not needed to run the engine, like the AC power relay). The other wire out of the inertia switch goes to the fuel pump. Check for B+ on both wires to a good ground for a couple of seconds until the computer pump priming circuit times out & turns the pump power relay B+ to the inertia switch off.


Make sure the B- ground cable connections to the engine & body are sound, clean, bright & tight. Make sure the B+ connection to the under hood power distribution box is clean & tight.


Right now the engine stall looks to me like a fuel delivery interruption problem, so a fuel pressure check needs to be done.


Not so sure about the no crank problem just yet. We need a couple more clues & you need a helper to turn the ignition to start while you see if you have B+ to the starter solenoid as you mentioned earlier.
Good idea to scan for trouble codes, post All code Numbers found.
Stay with it & you'll run it down.

 

Since it wont even crank try this simple test. Find the location of the starter relay in your owners manual . Put your finger on it and have someone turn the key to start. Do you feel & hear the relay click?

If not check your owners manual for the location of the "central junction box" and check fuse 24 it's a 7.5 amp fuse & it sends voltage thru the transmission range sensor to the coil side of the starter relay.

 

If the relay does click check fuse 5 in the battery junction box it's a 50 amp fuse and is spliced to the switch side of the starter relay and to most everything else on the truck but not the headlights or horn.

When all is working as it should the starter relay closes and sends voltage to the starter solenoid. The solenoid shoves the starter gear into the flywheel and connects the 12 volts you're seeing from the battery and the engine cranks.

 

Forgot to mention that fuse 5 is hot at all times. Fuse 24 is only hot when the key is turned to start

 

Had a friend come over and figured out what it was. Fuse 19 kept popping. Clearly there was a short, but took a little to track it down. Turns out who did the engine work didn't put the back engine wiring harness where it needed to be and it was resting on the exhaust, which obviously melted through the plastic and was shorting on the black wire with white stripe mostly, and one of the other wires was uncovered as well.

What do you think my odds are of getting the company that did the work to pay for my tow ticket ($120) and the price of a new harness for that location?