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Easier way to install 2.5 inch leveling blocks

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Old 03-03-2015, 11:25 PM
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FX-4 Man FX-4 Man is offline
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Easier way to install 2.5 inch leveling blocks

Wanting to install 2.5 inch leveling blocks on my 2005 F-150, from all I've seen online, I'd need to take loose the top ball joint, et al, etc. just to slide the blocks into position.

Question I have is, would I be able to just disconnect the shock mount at the lower control arm and angle it away so I could slide the blocks in place?
Gonna have to wait for warmer weather anyway and would just rather not have to pay somebody to do so simple a job (my Dad checked a shop near him, they wanted $200 not including realignment).
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Doug
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:58 PM
Charlescuster6969 Charlescuster6969 is offline
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Call me 5126351342
I'll explain
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:17 PM
iamrfixit iamrfixit is offline
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Just put a 2.5 kit on my son's 2006.

Not disconnecting the upper ball joint will NOT make this job easier, more likely all but impossible. You need to get the top of the strut completely out because you need to bolt the spacer to the top of it. The only way to really accomplish this is to disconnect the upper ball joint, sway bar bracket and tie rod end. I prefer to just pull the lower strut bolt and completely remove the strut.

Getting the ball joint separated is easy, usually pops right apart with no special tools. Just loosen the nut until it is finger tight, this will catch the knuckle so it doesn't fall apart. Then strike the steering knuckle from the rear side, right on the joint. A couple hits is usually all it will take. You are hitting sideways, not downward.

If it's being exceptionally difficult; hold the head of a 3lb hammer against the back side of the knuckle, right at the ball joint and hit the opposite side of the knuckle, again right at the ball joint. This will cause the tapered joint to compress ever so slightly and the ball joint stud will literally pop right out of the knuckle. I have NEVER had this not work. You definitely don't want to use a pickle fork to separate it unless you plan to replace the ball joint.

The whole job is very easy, took me about 15 min per side, with the luxury of a warm shop, air tools and a good floor jack.
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:11 PM
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FX-4 Man FX-4 Man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
Just put a 2.5 kit on my son's 2006.

Not disconnecting the upper ball joint will NOT make this job easier, more likely all but impossible. You need to get the top of the strut completely out because you need to bolt the spacer to the top of it. The only way to really accomplish this is to disconnect the upper ball joint, sway bar bracket and tie rod end. I prefer to just pull the lower strut bolt and completely remove the strut.

Getting the ball joint separated is easy, usually pops right apart with no special tools. Just loosen the nut until it is finger tight, this will catch the knuckle so it doesn't fall apart. Then strike the steering knuckle from the rear side, right on the joint. A couple hits is usually all it will take. You are hitting sideways, not downward.

If it's being exceptionally difficult; hold the head of a 3lb hammer against the back side of the knuckle, right at the ball joint and hit the opposite side of the knuckle, again right at the ball joint. This will cause the tapered joint to compress ever so slightly and the ball joint stud will literally pop right out of the knuckle. I have NEVER had this not work. You definitely don't want to use a pickle fork to separate it unless you plan to replace the ball joint.

The whole job is very easy, took me about 15 min per side, with the luxury of a warm shop, air tools and a good floor jack.
Thank you sir, now all I have to do is wait for.........(next week apparently, in the DC metro area), highs are supposed to be in the low to mid 50's, (already have the floor jack), I think I can make do with hand tools.
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:11 PM
 
 
 
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