have a 2001 with 158k miles and second gear went out in it, all other gears work fine, just no second gear. trans fluid is clean and full and the temp was at 140 when it happend. so after doing some reading on here and deciphering the build date(BD-0J06=Oct 6 2000) its falls into that category on the faulty diode. i was just wondering/hoping it could be something else wrong.any input would be greatly appreciated.

if it is the diode i plan on rebuilding it myself and want to somewhat bullet proof it. i dont plan on going over 400hp with the truck because of the connecting rods in it. i just want to change any other defective parts in it while its apart. again, any input would be greatly appreciated. i just dont want to miss anything and regret it afterwards.

here is a parts list i have come up with.
BOOK
REBUILD KIT (Mark recommends)
THRUST BEARINGS
4R100 Sure Cure Performance Pack
Torque converter
tool
tool
updated 2-3 shift valve
Center Support

 

If it isn't the mechanical diode then the intermediate clutch has failed. Either way it needs to be rebuilt.

 

thank you mark for your reply. do i need to replace the center support or can i reuse it? having trouble finding one.

 

If the center support is not damaged you shouldn't have to replace it. There are kits available to replace the mechanical diode without replacing a whole lot of other parts.

 

If it is your diode that failed OR even if it has not failed, just search for a used direct drum on Ebay, be way cheaper than converting your existing one. There are a bunch on there.

I'm not sure what the difference is (if any) between the 4clutch vs 5clutch or 1vs2 feed hole etc, but obviously the 5clutches is better if it fits in your trans. It fit in mine which had the mechanical diode.

Then make sure you get the 45 element sprag (stock is 34). The 45 is included in most 4r100 upgrade kits already.

 

thank you for that input. i will be getting one of those.

found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/171370745827?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT on ebay also and it comes with trust berings and not thrust washers. will that convert all my thrust washers to thrust bearings?

 

There are both thrust washers and torrington bearings in the transmission. The torrington bearings hardly ever wear out, and to a lesser extent the thrust washers. Essentially if they look ok you can re-use them, but if you had a hard part failure probably a couple need to be replaced.

 

The Torrington bearings can flushed in solvent, check for roughness, and then soaked in ATF before reusing. The thrust washers may, or not exhibit wear, but I recommend replacing them. A little wear, here and there, contributes to more looseness in already loose factory tolerances. I haven't seen any specs for the washers or bearings. It is more a visual observation as to their wear, unless you have new ones to compare. I prefer to err to the side of caution and would recommend getting the kit with those included. There are also a couple of snap rings that I recommend replacing that are not included in any kits I've seen.

 

thanks again for the input, i will order a thrust washer kit to be on the safe side.

i am interested in which snap rings you are referring to so i can get them ordered also,i ordered the one for the center support and the one updated for the overdrive. i hoping to do this right the first time so i wont have to worry about doing this again.

 

Did you order only the Center Support Snap Ring (spacer)? Are planning on having the Center Support face machined to accommodate the spacer? It will not fit with out this being done.
There are kits available that include a machined CS and Spacer as a set.

There are upgrades to the Coast Clutch that include a heavier snap ring. Also, I use a thicker, wider snap ring from a 5R110 in the L/R Drum, along with some "selective" steels, to prevent "blow out" and reduce clearance for quicker engagement. I check clearances and use the proper sized pressure plates, steels, and snap rings to get the desired results in all my clutch packs. It is more a "blueprinting" process than a standard "parts change" rebuild.

 

this is the center support that i ordered, i think its a direct replacement no machining required i hope
https://www.suncoastconverters.com/s...ort-1989-1997/

thank you for your time and input also

 

I had the dual load center support in my trans at one time. I do not recommend it. Due to a lack of pressurized lubrication in the area of the added bushing, the center shaft seized to it and spun inside the housing. I was not a happy camper.
I had a discussion with John Wood about this upgrade when I purchased a cryo'd replacement shaft. He said he'd seen the same failure with type of CS and does not recommend them for this reason.

 

thank you for the heads up on this, i will be sending it back and just ordering the snap ring. or see if i can find a machined kit somewhere. no machine shops are close to me

 

You can get the machined aluminum Center Support housing w/ Spacer (reusing your steel section with bearing; held on with 3 bolts) as a kit for a reasonable price here: https://www.wittrans.com Search for part# 36630. I have bought some my other hard parts from them, also. If you have any questions, contact me.

 

I'm doing a similar rebuild. While Doing my research I saw something about upgrading the pump and valve body using a sumac kit or a tugger kit. There is so much info out there just not sure what to believe. What do you use when you rebuild. My 4r100 is being rebuilt because i am changing it to a 4x4 for converting my van.