I was seeing low FICM voltages so a couple weeks ago I got a new FICM, DC Power alternator and FICM relay from FICM repair.com. Had the batteries checked, checked all the cables. Haven't had a DTC code since then.

I have the Edge Insight CTS monitoring FICM voltage and when I started the truck this morning the alarm went off because it dipped to 45 volts for a second.

It is normally between 47.5 - 48.5, I have seen it dip below 47 a couple times while driving.

Battery voltages are always above 12.5.

Am I worrying about nothing?

 

It should hold steady 48.5 / 49 with a healthy system.

 

what brand of FICM?

 

I got it from FICMrepair.com Atlas 40 tune with the "Ultra Repair Service"

 

have you checked all the grounds , may need to give Ed a call and pick his Brain cell what's FICM VP and LP reading?

 

I checked the cables and grounds when I bought the truck a couple weeks ago, and Im under the hood every other day familiarizing myself.

VP and LP?

Forgive my ignorance.

Is that a parameter I can check with the Insight? Otherwise I need to go buy a meter, I am on the road for work right now and don't have my tools.

Everything I have done this far I have done in the hotel parking lot.

 

Volts dipping to 45 even for a second or so is not good. I wouldn't be so concerned about things as to necessitate parking lot at a hotel work, but it's still not good.

Start out by cleaning up all of your grounds and battery connections if you haven't already. Just make sure to disconnect the negatives off of both batteries before dinking with any positive side connections.

Had you load tested the batteries Prior to installing the module (I know you said you had them checked, but how is the question)? What CCA rating did they come back at?

What battery voltage are you seeing on your gauge key on engine off, during cranking, immediately after the engine starts, and then at just idle at full operating temperature? If you press and hold your thumb onto the CTS screen with the key not even in the ignition, it will power up. When it says 'trying Ford CAN', just put the key in the ON position. After all your readings are displaying, then you can crank the motor over and watch the readings.

Hope this helps!

Ed

 

Thanks for Chiming in Ed that's what we were waiting for VP vehicle power LP Logic power then what your reading is MP Main power that side of the board with the 6.0 vibration could do it . double check the Grounds and as what Ed has Explained. OK

 

Ed! Wow, I feel like I'm meeting a celebrity

Ok, before I answer all those questions I gotta say, the lady that answered the phone and helped me was awesome, she had all that stuff sent to the hotel ASAP.
Great service. You've got another salesperson now lol

I just went out and took all those readings, and thank you for telling me about the CTS thing, I didn't know I could turn it on before hand.

Ok, key on-engine off batt volt was 11.7, but this is with the DRL's on and the vacuum pump and the glow plugs right?

When I cranked it voltage dropped to 10.5

Immediately after it starts (and it starts IMMEDIATELY after putting this stuff in)
I have 13.5 volts

Once its hot its usually above 14 volts.

I pulled the batteries out and brought them to AutoZone to have them checked.
(Well the hotel shuttle took me there lol) I have never had this done before, so I didn't really know what to look for. the guy looked at them and said "Ok these are size XYZ, I think those are 750 CCA" So I am assuming that he tested them to "that level"?

He tested them and said they passed, printed a receipt for each test, which I included with the info I sent back with the FICM last week.

Thank you for taking the time to do this, a rare thing this is. I really appreciate being able to communicate with you about this.

 

You need a better load tester. The ones they use at the auto parts stores don't apply enough load to get a real reading on a large battery.
I've seen them pass batterys that have a dead cell.

 

Subscribed... Having the same issue.

 

IF you monitor the FLV and FLP voltages along with the FMP you should be able to tell if the problem is on the INPUT voltages to the FICM or within the FICM itself..
My FLV/FLP remains 12.5-14.5 now and my FMP is 48+ pretty solid as well with my latest alternator and wire upgrade from Ed.

I've had a bad cell(s) in batteries that only showed themselves when hitting bumps - or in one case, as soon as I began to move from a stop.. sounds like that for you (or a loose connection after all your repairs..)

 

Celebrity. Now *that's* funny! I promise you that I'm just a regular guy that cares. Feel free to reach out to us anytime at all. Everyone here wants nothing more than to ensure our customers are taken care of.

Weak batteries nearly always cause issues and loads of them.

I've had amazingly good luck with the AGM batteries from Odyssey (the re-branded Sears Die Hard Platinum 950CCA jobs) and have heard really great things about the NorthStar Battery options.

Trouble is that in most cases once the damage is done it is done. Not always, but lots of times.

Your 11.7 volts KOEO isn't incredible, but passable. You still may have a dead cell as was indicated, however. Technically, batteries need to be tested under proper load as was indicated, but then also only after having been disconnected from everything for not less than 12 hours.

On my truck (after seeing my key engine on engine off [KOEO, don't ya know] numbers down at 11.4), I took my batteries in to get warranted and was told that they wouldn't honor a warranty as they tested out at 746CCA or some such on 850CCA rated batteries. Ultimately, I threw in the towel after getting nowhere with the supplier and picked up a pair of the Die Hard Platinums and now see dips only to 12.2-12.3 KOEO. Of course, the starter sounds like it's going to pull the motor right off of its mounts, too!

Your group size 65 batteries should be rated at 850CCA and not 750CCA considering that you live in the tundra with us. If they passed a test at 750CCA, they may well fail at 850CCA. I'd have them tested again.

It sounds like the alternator is doing awesome, though.

I am happy to spend as much time as necessary to ensure that you are 100% in good shape. If we have to get you a replacement unit, so be it. We don't leave people hanging - not ever.

 

Thank you Ed.

I am wondering if it was just a glitch? Wouldn't there be a DTC if the voltage dropped that low? I checked this morning, no codes, and just like it has every morning since I changed the FICM it starts immediately. Its like it doesn't even turn over all the way lol, it just snaps to life.

I am just gonna put new batteries in it, the sticker on them says they are two years old but they are an unknown. It'll give me something to do while I am stuck in Seattle.

I think I might try out those AGM batteries you mentioned.

 

There really are no glitches, just responses to events. My suspicion is that the FICM saw something it didn't like and reacted. Hopefully the new batteries prevent a recurrence. DTC's typically take longer than that momentary dip to register.