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02 f150 scab 4x4 brake fluid flush

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Old 03-01-2015, 06:31 PM
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02 f150 scab 4x4 brake fluid flush

I was wondering how much fluid and what type for my flush ?
 
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:07 PM
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truck came with DOT 3 brake fluid. The manufacturer is not important. You can use DOT 4 if you wish, but more expensive .. better heat protection.
You can get a couple size bottles. The small one is about 8 oz and the larger one is about 16 oz. I would get the bigger one.
Use a straw or vacuum plunger to suck out as much of the old oil from the master cylinder as possible. refill with new fluid. Go to the back wheel on the passenger side and loosen the bleeder screw 1 turn. Retighen lightly. Have someone push the pedal to the floor then open the bleeder under pressure and drain out a few CCs. Do that several times until you think your getting new fluid. The passenger rear is the furthest from the master cyl. Do each corner in this manner. Remember to add 2-3 oz to the master, each time you crack a bleeder 4-5 times. Don't let the master go low.
 
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:48 AM
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Thanks , maybe the snow will stop eventually and I can get to it LOL ! I have about 14 " this morning
 
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:11 AM
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...I'm not sure why, but when I did my flush this way 2 years ago, I ended up with a fading pedal. I thought I was my my master cylinder, so I replaced it....Twice!...Still had the same issue....supposedly its inside the abs unit.....Which I also replaced with a used one....Still have the same issue..I brought it to Ford and they said there is no issue with it...But there defintely is.....Ive just learned to drive it that way ....Like i said...it fades a bit when you first step on them, but if you release and reapply..there is no fade....Odd I know, but cant put a finger on it.....keep in mind this all happened after a flush with a vacumn bleeder.
 
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 96f150
...I'm not sure why, but when I did my flush this way 2 years ago, I ended up with a fading pedal. I thought I was my my master cylinder, so I replaced it....Twice!...Still had the same issue....supposedly its inside the abs unit.....Which I also replaced with a used one....Still have the same issue..I brought it to Ford and they said there is no issue with it...But there defintely is.....Ive just learned to drive it that way ....Like i said...it fades a bit when you first step on them, but if you release and reapply..there is no fade....Odd I know, but cant put a finger on it.....keep in mind this all happened after a flush with a vacumn bleeder.

Try gravity bleeding all 4 at the same time. Just make sure you keep the master full. You may need to very very lightly tap the pedal after you open all 4 bleeders and use your hand. This has cured 99℅ of the ones I've had do the same thing. Some late 80's and early 90's can't be power bleed because they will trap and lock air in places. My suburban couldn't be power bled at all. On jack stands with the master cap off and all 4 bleeders open and a coffee can under each one. Took doing this 3 days in a row without touching it between and a gallon of flud but it did it. Thing would stop on a dime after that. But trying the pump n holler the pedal went most of the way to the floor with the bleeders closed.

Friend of mine recently had this problem on a 1 ton and this procedure did the trick. Took him 2 days and lots of fluid. Like I said, some can't be power bled for some odd reason. Pop the cap and open the bleeders, gravity is something we can count on.
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:08 PM
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Kellyblue That's the first I've ever heard that suggested. Hmm.
 
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by iamvandemon
Kellyblue That's the first I've ever heard that suggested. Hmm.
20 Something years ago when I was first got into the field after graduating Lincoln tech this old cat that had been twisting wrenches for years turned me on to this one when I was getting my shorts eaten by one that wouldn't power bleed. I tried everything but this. Vacuum, pump n hollar with engine off and with engine running. Got nothing but fluid every single time but with the bleeders closed the pedal went half way to the floor every time. On the morning of the third day of letting it sit over night he started to feel sorry for me I guess. I had been on this thing non stop and wasn't bugging other guys to help or fix it for me. Sure I had asked if anyone had any ideas but everyone was a stumped as I was. That day he said he would tell me what I needed to do as long as I wouldn't argue with him like the other young guys my age. When he told me what to do I didn't think it had a chance in the world of working but I didn't argue with him one bit. Boy was I wrong. Made up a cap with a hose fitting on it and attached a hose in the bottom of a pail with a bunch a fluid in it and raised it up. Opened all 4 bleeders and let it go for a good long while. After I closed the bleederes and put the cap back on it it had all kinds of pedal. I was shocked, and very thankful. Everyone looked at him a little different after that but I was the only one he was remotely nice to. He was a grumpy fella. Ive probably had to do this a dozen times in 20+ years and its worked all but once. The one time it didn't I found the body of a proportioning valve had cracked and would not leak out but suck air in. I found that by draining the system and using smoke. With my Burb I replaced every hose and valve and it didn't change a thing, wouldn't power or vacuum bleed. I have no reasonable explanation of why or how this works , but I know it will on many that have this issue.
 
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Old 03-12-2015, 08:38 PM
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....we'll have to give it a shot....got nothing to lose...so you opened all 4 bleeders at the same time and had a bucket/cup under each one?
 
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:03 PM
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Yes. Open all 4 and take the cap off. If nothing starts to flow you may have to tap the pedal and use your hand. If you can't get flow after that try one at a time starting with the farthest from the master. However, after opening them and taking the cap off and giving the pedal a tap give a full hour for them to flow.
 
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