Never got around to converting to electrical brake light switch with the Front Disc. upgrade and now the brakes lights are not working and suspect the hydraulic brake switch is the problem. The least labor intensive solution would be to just replace the hydraulic switch but I have been giving some thought to converting to an electrical switch. It's the 65 with the T18 and I assume I am going to have to come up with, or makes a bracket regardless and thought I would check w/ member's who have some experience with the swap to determine if I am on the right track. I am giving the 1st link consideration since the leads are similar/same as the current connectors? Comments, suggestions appreciated.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...yL._SS100_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...ZL._SS100_.jpg

 

I don't remember whether it was this site or another Slick site that had a sticky on this conversion.

The article had a decent set of instructions and dimensions to build the bracket you refer to. As I remember, the conversion used a brake light switch from a Dent.

The "new" bracket and switch mounted to the swing pedal assembly and was activated by the brake pedal, similar to what Ford did on the Dents.

Hope this helps.

 

Roger, thank you for the info it does help. Giving it some thought, and took a look yesterday and decided to do some 'brain storming' with very little to work with. Seems opposite of how a brake switch operates but considering removing the rubber bumper, where the pedal rest against the brake pedal assembly, and insert the switch; although, not sure a switch can be set where the circuit is off when the switch plunger is seated, and on when extended, that's to say it completes the brake light circuit and operates the taillights when I apply the brake?? Anyhow, intend getting under the dash and check it out further, and as you mentioned, should not be difficult salvaging or fabricating a bracket that would mount to the pedal assembly and activated by the pedal. Again that you for the input,

 

D2TZ-13480-B (replaced C8TZ-13480-A) .. Brake Lamp Switch (Motorcraft SW-691-A).

1968/77 F100/350 (except 1975/77 F100/350 460 with Speed Control).

1967 F100/350 switch is one year only.

 

Dave,

As I remember, the switch I used had a rather long, round body that was threaded and came with a couple of nuts. This allowed for adequate adjustment.
It's been a number of years since I did one of there conversions and I don't recall all the specifics.

 

1968/79: Switch uses a special threaded nut (13A629-lower left in pic) that clips to the brake pedal.

 

Roger and Bill, thanks for info. Went cyber shopping and came across both items; don't come cheap but I can be had, the $30 difference in price is enough to where the item in Mac's catalog is looking better. Thank U's for the information.

Ford - Ford Pickup Truck Brake Light Switch - F100 Thru F350 | D2TZ-13480-B - Macs Auto Parts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1973-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-Ford-F100-Brake-Light-Switch-D2TZ-13480-B-/371037265717?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56638b5f35&vxp=mtr

 

Dave, the 2nd is what is in my truck and this is a photo of it installed.




John

 

Thank U's all for the input; John, can't thank you enough, the pic's worth a thousand words. Checked w/ local auto parts store who carries same, or matching switch for considerably less; if understand correctly, all I need to do is remove the bolt that secures the brake pedal assembly to the actuating arm, remove the rubber bumper, install the switch and re-drill pedal lever arm as needed, then reattach arm. Again, I thank U's!!

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ht-switch.html

 

Good topic, I plan to do this soon

 

Dave, Pull the wires back inside of the cab, mount the switch and reconnect the wires. or make it complicated.


John

 

John, thank you for the tip, from pic's appears determining where to drill the holes on the brake and actuator arm is possibly the most labor intensive part of the project. Having said that, went and purchased the male spade connectors and switch yesterday but in the process of disconnecting the brake pedal from the actuating rod I shifted the brake wiring circuit and inadvertently corrected what ever caused the hydraulic switch to malfunction, just a matter of figuring out what I had done and now faced with a dilemma as to how long I intend to set on my backside before making the switch (no pun intended)???

 

I didn't have to drill any holes in mine, I believe it just mounted to the bumper hole already there. Really pretty simple.

 

I may be mistaken but it appears, other than the original holes, John drilled a couple extra holes in the pedal arm, in addition to a couple in the brake actuator arm/rod I suspect so the pedal assembly would be aligned; otherwise, clutch pedal would be at 1 level and brake pedal at another which for me could be annoying??