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Are you using the existing linkage, or changing to something different?
I am hoping to use existing linkage plus the two kits shown here because it has an Edlebrock 1405 carb.
I found that the arm shown is a Lokar part, so I assume one can use the existing arm with the new TV arm from the Lokar kit.
I just bought a 1984 F150 with a 302 and an AOD.
He told me it had a C6 tranny and needed adjustment when I bought it.
Only drive it a bit and noticed it shifts three times....
I look under and see "automatic overdrive" and "METRIC" on tranny pan, TV rod
hooked up like old C4/C6.
This thread tells me most of what I need to know except this:
The truck has this type of linkage
but the manual for the cable install shows an arm straight up or straight down.
Does that arm come with the kit?
How can I use the kit with my setup?
It is not at all clear...
That "kickdown" in the diagram is also called a "dogleg" and is used only with the stock AOD TV rod.
If you are using an Edlebrock carburetor, you need the Lokar AOD "kickdown" kit which has a "TV lever" that replaces it to use with the TV cable.
From reading the instructions, it looks as if Lokar has solved the need to use the geometry corrector bracket I mentioned earlier. The newer kits (Lokar Hi-Tech Kickdown Kit, KD-2AODU) supply a modified TV lever that addresses the geometry issue on the transmission end. This newer design TV lever has two holes in the end in which the TV cable routes through. If you have a Holley carburetor, you simply route the TV cable through the outside hole. If you have an Edelbrock carburetor, you route the TV cable through the inside hole.
The older Lokar kits like mine supplied a TV lever, but it was shaped differently and only had one hole. With this "universal" style TV lever, the geometry corrector bracket is used to correct the geometry issue on the carburetor end. The aftermarket provided two different styles of geometry correct brackets: one for a Holley (or Autolite/Miotorcraft) carburetor, and a different one for an Edelbrock.
The older Lokar kits like mine didn't supply a "TV lever" and so you used the stock one. When you use the stock lever, the geometry corrector bracket is used to correct the geometry issue on the carburetor end.
Ok, got the TV lever installed, now if you look at the kit instructions on the tranny end there is a 3/8" spacer above the mount.
As seen in the diagram I posted there is a stock bracket there that about 1/16" or so thick that I need to keep for the shifter.
Should I shorten the kit's 3/8" spacer?
Is the geometry so critical that essentially raising the bracket end on the tranny will make a difference?
Hmm....., let me see if I can make a new spacer fast....
UPDATE!
New spacer made on lathe, old was 3/8", new one was 1/4" plus the 1/8" for the bracket....
Waiting for carb bracket and throttle cable I didn't know I needed now....
Last edited by djmartins; 06-25-2016 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: update
This video is the best I have ever seen regarding how the carburetor geometry must be correct for the AOD to function correctly with a TV cable. I wish I had found this when I trying to figure all this out on my own. The mechanic is describing an aftermarket carburetor mated to a GM 700R4, but the exact same principles apply to the Ford AOD with an aftermarket carburetor:
This is a great thread Lariat thank you for the info but I have EFI and am using the bracket the came with the 89 e250 5.0 AOD van is this going to cause problems later and any instructions that you could give. This engine and tranny are in my 49 F1
Bracket for 5.0 EFI AOD I welded in the square hole for the stock tv cable and drilled a hole for the Lokar tv cable
Sorry, I don't know much about the geometry of the EFI throttle body. The concept is the same. The pull of the TV cable MUST match the travel of the throttle lever on the throttle body.
Does anyone have a measurement from the centre of the accelerator stud to the centre of the TV cable stud on the original 5.0 EFi with AOD throttle lever? I am asking because I am fabricating a geometry corrector for carb and I am assuming that ford calculated the precise distance for the placement of the accelerator and and TV cable studs to provide the correct Arc 1:1 movement. I also want this number to check the aftermarket brackets for aod carb applications and determine if this distance is the same. Caveat from memory the accelerator stud and TV Cable stud are on different horizontal planes on the original EFi aod bracket , so one has to make sure the measurement taken is not an incline measurement from centre to centre. I’m not an engineer or anything like that so if this is an incorrect sentiment let me know. Thanks Y’all
New to fords and carbs and aods. If I read this right swapping my ford throttle arm and linkage to a amc 2150 should have no negitive impact to the aod right? assuming that the position of the rod connection is the same?
New to fords and carbs and aods. If I read this right swapping my ford throttle arm and linkage to a amc 2150 should have no negitive impact to the aod right? assuming that the position of the rod connection is the same?
That should work fine. The AMC 2150 carburetor is the the same as a Ford 2150, just different throttle arms and linkages. Make sure you also swap the accelerator pump assembly along with the throttle lever.
You could also swap the Ford AOD throttle lever to an older Autolite 2100, or even an Autolite 4100.
That should work fine. The AMC 2150 carburetor is the the same as a Ford 2150, just different throttle arms and linkages. Make sure you also swap the accelerator pump assembly along with the throttle lever.
You could also swap the Ford AOD throttle lever to an older Autolite 2100, or even an Autolite 4100.
Thank you. I had already swapped the entire throttle arm/linkage/lever assembly, the accelerator pump, the choke and everything else that bolted to the carb I couldn't get it to start yesterday which is part of why I posted.. After a little fine tuning with some help from the father in-law she was starting and running pretty good by the end of the night.
Hi, so i decided to install the lokar kit on my AOD cause i changed to a Holley carb.
This is an awesome instruction.
Thank you very much!!!
But i have one question:
In the lokar manual, there is described, the Trans manual lever is either in up or down position and the lokar lever is in opposite.
In which gear ( P R N D) is this position?
Cause my original lever is only in D ( not Overdrive) in straight up position.
i have a similar linkage as djmartins picture shows
III. - The AOD TV Rod is NOT a Kickdown Rod!
The C4 and C6 transmissions are controlled by engine vacuum and a modulator, and it uses a kickdown rod to make the transmission "kick down" to a lower gear. If it is not hooked up, the transmission simply will not downshift on it's own, but nothing bad will happen.
This information is Awesome... Here is my current situation, my Teen boys bough a 1984 F150 it has an edlebrock and the only thing conected to the carb is the Gas Throthel cable. Whoever installed the carb left the Rod just hanging in the engine. Dashboard speeds are the following: P R N D 2 1. We have been driving it a few weeks as is (Hopefully we have not damaged anything). should I connect the rod or a lokar cable to the carb and trany, or am I safe leaving it as is?
This information is Awesome... Here is my current situation, my Teen boys bough a 1984 F150 it has an edlebrock and the only thing conected to the carb is the Gas Throthel cable. Whoever installed the carb left the Rod just hanging in the engine. Dashboard speeds are the following: P R N D 2 1. We have been driving it a few weeks as is (Hopefully we have not damaged anything). should I connect the rod or a lokar cable to the carb and trany, or am I safe leaving it as is?
after some research I found out my tranny is C6 and as stated on this post I do not need the kick down rod. Thank you
06-21-2016, 06:45 PM
