i know this subject is beat and ive posted about it more than once but i really dont want to take my truck to a shop when i can do it for 1/4 of the cost.
My truck will start perfectly fine cold/the first time i start it that day, but as soon as its warmed up at all it will crank and crank without starting. rpms flutter while cranking, white smoke out the pipe, batterys are both fine, ive tried bypassing the gpr...i have replaced the injector o-rings, IPR, ICP, ICP pigtail, fuel bowl harness, and i now have efuel. it will start with ether, i know, i know bad for the glow plugs but i had no choice at the gas station. i do not have a good scanner to show live data or an android to get the torque app. i have tried unplugging the icp and that doesnt work. ive tried my extra idm with no luck, and also put a new cps in... i think thats all but it is late.

 

When is the last time you changed your oil

 

When I pulled my engine about 1.5k ago, level is good

 

Maybe the new IPR came with bad O rings, they are usually the cause of a no start when the motor is hot.

 

Even if I got it from ford for a rediculous price btw everything I got was from ford

 

I purchase from ford anytime I cant wait a couple of days other wise riff raff is your best friend.
1994-1997 'OBS' 7.3L Powerstroke

 

this was the case, i wanted to spend less money and help out clay but i just wanted my truck fixed, and now it isnt and ive spent top dollar on everything

 

Need to be able to see ICP while cranking when it won't start.
At that point if it is less than the 500 required to start then you need to first plug one hpop line to one head and crank to monitor ICP. If it is still low then check the other...if neither yields the pressure rising then block off both hosses. That's where you have eliminated both banks.with a new IPR and not enough pressure you will need a block off fitting capable of a mechanical gauge to see if the hpop is capable of making enough pressure.all the time making sure hpop resivour does not go low.
That is the correct method of diag straight out of the ford handbook.otherwise you are just guessing. Hoping the orings just installed are sealing and the pump is actually working.

 

What kind of oil did you use? Not likely it's the problem but sometimes you never know.

 

i will get to doing that test fordman as soon as i have the time hopefully that shows something, and i use Rotella 15-40 every time with a motorcraft filter, changed from 4k-5k since I've owned it

 

The biggest issue is there were a few block offs etc that ford had. A -6 jic plug for the hpop lines. You also may need a mech gauge . its all about eliminating possible leak points IF you aren't building enough pressure.

 

im still at work so im just running everything through my head, when i did my o-rings i only did two because all the other ones looked good. is there a possibility one of the " good looking ones" went bad and tore or broke down and now is letting oil come through the top into the vc? i feel stupid for doing it half assed in the first place.

 

um did you remove them or just hope for the best and not remove?

They are really only single use...

 

... Um **** ... I thought if you lubed them up with vasoline and they looked good it was alright

 

for the work involved it would only make sense to do the all regardless of how they look. Plus if two already look bad odds are the rest are not far behind. Sorry for the bad news