Lower ECT, lost heat, and puked!!!
#31
A simple way to spcheck hot water flow is to pull the grey vacuum hose to the actuator under the hood. No vacuum means the valve will default open. Now run the truck to heat it up and you should slowly get water temp equivalent to the ECT over time. In colder temps with no winter front, you will see fluctuation in coolant temp, as the thermostat opens, it will pull cooler water from the radiator, then the temp will go down a bit until the engine heats up and opens up thermostat again. Check the water temp in the coolant line to the heater with a IR gun at the metal pipe. The closer to the ECT temp the better the pump is working. I think your issues are kind of unrelated. What is your percentage of coolant to water? Boil over if coolant not better than 40% antifreeze. 200 degree water at the sensor means somewhere it's hotter and at 212 it will boil with straight water. 22 degree air will cause the fluctuation in water temps because the thermostat is opening and closing off, as it pulls cold water from the rad. I think some other good things in this post to check, cracked tank, leaking down only, bad cap, all potential culprits. I also think a thorough check of the hose under the tank as a potential to leak down. Anyways, hope you have fun resolving this, and I hope it's simple!
#33
After sleeping on things last night I am leaning toward water pump (at the moment)
2006 F350 4X4
#34
I got a feeling you got the same problem I have. I haven't done the tests yet but I think my EGR cooler is slightly cracked and lets in gases when it gets really cold forming a gas pocket in the system.......I just ordered a IPR EGR delete kit and a oil cooler plus some other goodies. I doubt it's the head gaskets but we shall see after the delete is in
Prob haven't gotten it yet tho huh???
#35
#36
#37
#38
Flow meter
The most accurate way is with a calibrated flow thru meter.
The problem is most people are not gonna have access to one.
I have one because I used to do a lot of hyraulics. It measures flow of any liquid and it really doesn't matter the input or output size because it is calibrated to the flow thru the orifice. The one I have is about 1 1/4 in. in dia
6 in long and tapped for 3/4 NPT but can be adapted to any size. Rated for 10,000 PSI and 300 GPM. A bit more than you would need but is calibrated for as little a 5 GPM. up to 300 GPM.
About $300 tho from ww grainger used to have them. Mine is 20 years old or better so they last. Made out of lexan.
The problem is most people are not gonna have access to one.
I have one because I used to do a lot of hyraulics. It measures flow of any liquid and it really doesn't matter the input or output size because it is calibrated to the flow thru the orifice. The one I have is about 1 1/4 in. in dia
6 in long and tapped for 3/4 NPT but can be adapted to any size. Rated for 10,000 PSI and 300 GPM. A bit more than you would need but is calibrated for as little a 5 GPM. up to 300 GPM.
About $300 tho from ww grainger used to have them. Mine is 20 years old or better so they last. Made out of lexan.
#39
#40
Yeah you can due thd bubble test in degas to check for egr cooler or hg but I'm looking at water pump. I'm not overheating, egr is dry, no smoke. I did look today and when it puked I lost more than I thought. Refilled took a drive to temp and all was well except it seemed the heat cooled a tad when at idle. I checked for leaks at the degas bottle and couldn't find any.
2006 F350 4X4
2006 F350 4X4
#41
Subscribed,
Gonna follow this one with you David.
I also have a coolant issue. I am leaking coolant somewhere in the front. I can't see it leak when it's warmed up and running and it doesn't leak if relieve all the pressure after I park it. Going from 200 deg down to 10 deg seems to be taking it's toll on it.
I was also thinking possibly water pump but really not sure.
.
Gonna follow this one with you David.
I also have a coolant issue. I am leaking coolant somewhere in the front. I can't see it leak when it's warmed up and running and it doesn't leak if relieve all the pressure after I park it. Going from 200 deg down to 10 deg seems to be taking it's toll on it.
I was also thinking possibly water pump but really not sure.
.
#42
One more thing,
If you need to remove the radiator, which I believe you do to change the water pump, you will need the special tool for the trans cooler lines.
Thanks goes to Rusty
.
If you need to remove the radiator, which I believe you do to change the water pump, you will need the special tool for the trans cooler lines.
Thanks goes to Rusty
.
#43
One more thing,
If you need to remove the radiator, which I believe you do to change the water pump, you will need the special tool for the trans cooler lines.
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39660-Transmission-Cooler-Scissor/dp/B005MVBENO/ref=pd_sim_auto_3/186-2540224-8206368?ie=UTF8&refRID=0W3YRJDKTZHQ55BHVTQJ
Thanks goes to Rusty
.
If you need to remove the radiator, which I believe you do to change the water pump, you will need the special tool for the trans cooler lines.
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39660-Transmission-Cooler-Scissor/dp/B005MVBENO/ref=pd_sim_auto_3/186-2540224-8206368?ie=UTF8&refRID=0W3YRJDKTZHQ55BHVTQJ
Thanks goes to Rusty
.
2006 F350 4X4
#44
A simple way to spcheck hot water flow is to pull the grey vacuum hose to the actuator under the hood. No vacuum means the valve will default open. Now run the truck to heat it up and you should slowly get water temp equivalent to the ECT over time. In colder temps with no winter front, you will see fluctuation in coolant temp, as the thermostat opens, it will pull cooler water from the radiator, then the temp will go down a bit until the engine heats up and opens up thermostat again. Check the water temp in the coolant line to the heater with a IR gun at the metal pipe. The closer to the ECT temp the better the pump is working. I think your issues are kind of unrelated. What is your percentage of coolant to water? Boil over if coolant not better than 40% antifreeze. 200 degree water at the sensor means somewhere it's hotter and at 212 it will boil with straight water. 22 degree air will cause the fluctuation in water temps because the thermostat is opening and closing off, as it pulls cold water from the rad. I think some other good things in this post to check, cracked tank, leaking down only, bad cap, all potential culprits. I also think a thorough check of the hose under the tank as a potential to leak down. Anyways, hope you have fun resolving this, and I hope it's simple!
#45