Turn key, WTS light, click, no crank....
#16
02-26-2015, 08:41 PM
I'll have to disagree. A fully charged 12 volt battery should read 12.8 volts. a battery reading 12.5 volts is a little mor than75% charged, a little low. some readin for you.
Battery Basics: A Layman's Guide to Batte | BatteryStuff Articles
Battery Basics: A Layman's Guide to Batte | BatteryStuff Articles
Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell
Wiki says this
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery
#17
02-26-2015, 08:50 PM
Logistics Pro
#18
02-27-2015, 05:52 AM
The starter isn't even engaging, I'd know it if it was locked up...
The two batteries were individually tested with leeds off as well, 12.5 on one 12.5 on the other.
#19
02-27-2015, 05:53 AM
#20
02-27-2015, 06:47 AM
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harbor freight: 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester
or amazon.com:
these testers are worth their weight in gold if it means you do not have to lug a set of batteries around to get the tested only to find they are good.
or amazon.com:
these testers are worth their weight in gold if it means you do not have to lug a set of batteries around to get the tested only to find they are good.
#21
02-27-2015, 06:55 AM
Post Fiend
It's not the batteries. If the batteries were weak, the truck would crank but do so slowly. I've drained batteries on these trucks and they cranks lower and slower and slower until they just don't crank any more. With 12.5V it should crank. The fact that it doesn't crank at all, but you show voltage at the batteries indicates to me that it's not the batteries.
I think you either have a bad starter, a bad connection somewhere or (most likely) a bad starter relay. The next time this happens, just the two big posts on the starter relay (mounted on the inside of the passenger side fender) with a big screwdriver. If the truck cranks, the relay is the culprit.
Upon what do you base the opinion that the click you're hearing is the starter solenoid and not the fender relay? Are you 100% sure you're getting voltage to the starter? Jumping that relay is a free and easy place to start, and a cheap fix if that ends up being the issue.
I think you either have a bad starter, a bad connection somewhere or (most likely) a bad starter relay. The next time this happens, just the two big posts on the starter relay (mounted on the inside of the passenger side fender) with a big screwdriver. If the truck cranks, the relay is the culprit.
Upon what do you base the opinion that the click you're hearing is the starter solenoid and not the fender relay? Are you 100% sure you're getting voltage to the starter? Jumping that relay is a free and easy place to start, and a cheap fix if that ends up being the issue.
#22
02-27-2015, 08:04 AM
It's not the batteries. If the batteries were weak, the truck would crank but do so slowly. I've drained batteries on these trucks and they cranks lower and slower and slower until they just don't crank any more. With 12.5V it should crank. The fact that it doesn't crank at all, but you show voltage at the batteries indicates to me that it's not the batteries.
I think you either have a bad starter, a bad connection somewhere or (most likely) a bad starter relay. The next time this happens, just the two big posts on the starter relay (mounted on the inside of the passenger side fender) with a big screwdriver. If the truck cranks, the relay is the culprit.
Upon what do you base the opinion that the click you're hearing is the starter solenoid and not the fender relay? Are you 100% sure you're getting voltage to the starter? Jumping that relay is a free and easy place to start, and a cheap fix if that ends up being the issue.
I think you either have a bad starter, a bad connection somewhere or (most likely) a bad starter relay. The next time this happens, just the two big posts on the starter relay (mounted on the inside of the passenger side fender) with a big screwdriver. If the truck cranks, the relay is the culprit.
Upon what do you base the opinion that the click you're hearing is the starter solenoid and not the fender relay? Are you 100% sure you're getting voltage to the starter? Jumping that relay is a free and easy place to start, and a cheap fix if that ends up being the issue.
#23
02-27-2015, 08:45 AM
Here's another HF load tester, more bucks but more appropriate to our size batteries - 500 Amp Carbon Pile Load Tester
#24
02-27-2015, 09:34 AM
So, a typical cold weather topic. I did read a handful of threads concerning this trait. Let me tell you what's going on and what I've done and what I think it is..
So, the day I left for the Tug a couple weeks ago I had my truck parked in the driveway after running some errands that morning; the truck was essentially cold. I hopped in to put it in the garage and when I turned the ignition switch it did all its usual prestart whatnots but after the WTS light went out and I attempted to crank it and it just clicked... This was literally at the most inconvenient time.. This condition had never threatened before, always perfect cranking. My multimeter was dead and I had maybe 1/2 an hour to solve this or leave it out in the snow for two weeks... I grabbed my jump box and put it on the drivers side battery, still the same condition. Then the funny thing, or the thing that makes sense maybe. I went inside to watch a video on youtube about 7.3 no crank, I came back out and it fired up.. Batteries right!? I dunno... So, I took it for a quick ride then brought it back and put it in the garage, turned it off then fired it back up again no problem.
Now fast forward 14 days, I just got home today and went out plugged the truck in; left it for an hour and went to start it, no dice.....
This time I was a little more prepared and I had my multimeter, my charger w a start option and my jumpbox. First I opened both batteries and checked the acid level, good.. Then I removed all the terminals and put my meter on them, 12.5 and 12.5... Then I put the charger on one battery in the 15amp position for a couple minuets then switched it to the start option and no crank, just WTS then click. Battery volt gauge looked maybe a little lower than normal.. Mind you I didn't know where the click was coming from yet. BTW don't let my haphazard approach to trouble shooting be any sort of lesson to you...
Next, I put the jump box on the other battery and tried to start it, no dice, same thing.. These batteries are dated 12/12, Les Schwab 1000 cranking amps @ 32 degrees.
So now what.... Well, I came inside did a little more reading, then went back out tested the hot side of the solenoid on the passenger fender 12.5V, then I jumped the two big lugs and got a click at the starter, hmmmm, interesting... (truck is in neutral) Then, I grounded one side of my meter and put the other side on the "not always hot" side of the solenoid, got in the truck and attempted a normal start, after the WTS light went off and I turned the key I got 10.4V on my meter...
So, no I didn't load test the batteries but this was maybe a grass roots way? 10.4 isn't going to engage the starter will it? New batteries? Weird hugh..... Or maybe not... Its just strange how it progressed...
Thoughts, opinions, feedback?....
So, the day I left for the Tug a couple weeks ago I had my truck parked in the driveway after running some errands that morning; the truck was essentially cold. I hopped in to put it in the garage and when I turned the ignition switch it did all its usual prestart whatnots but after the WTS light went out and I attempted to crank it and it just clicked... This was literally at the most inconvenient time.. This condition had never threatened before, always perfect cranking. My multimeter was dead and I had maybe 1/2 an hour to solve this or leave it out in the snow for two weeks... I grabbed my jump box and put it on the drivers side battery, still the same condition. Then the funny thing, or the thing that makes sense maybe. I went inside to watch a video on youtube about 7.3 no crank, I came back out and it fired up.. Batteries right!? I dunno... So, I took it for a quick ride then brought it back and put it in the garage, turned it off then fired it back up again no problem.
Now fast forward 14 days, I just got home today and went out plugged the truck in; left it for an hour and went to start it, no dice.....
This time I was a little more prepared and I had my multimeter, my charger w a start option and my jumpbox. First I opened both batteries and checked the acid level, good.. Then I removed all the terminals and put my meter on them, 12.5 and 12.5... Then I put the charger on one battery in the 15amp position for a couple minuets then switched it to the start option and no crank, just WTS then click. Battery volt gauge looked maybe a little lower than normal.. Mind you I didn't know where the click was coming from yet. BTW don't let my haphazard approach to trouble shooting be any sort of lesson to you...
Next, I put the jump box on the other battery and tried to start it, no dice, same thing.. These batteries are dated 12/12, Les Schwab 1000 cranking amps @ 32 degrees.
So now what.... Well, I came inside did a little more reading, then went back out tested the hot side of the solenoid on the passenger fender 12.5V, then I jumped the two big lugs and got a click at the starter, hmmmm, interesting... (truck is in neutral) Then, I grounded one side of my meter and put the other side on the "not always hot" side of the solenoid, got in the truck and attempted a normal start, after the WTS light went off and I turned the key I got 10.4V on my meter...
So, no I didn't load test the batteries but this was maybe a grass roots way? 10.4 isn't going to engage the starter will it? New batteries? Weird hugh..... Or maybe not... Its just strange how it progressed...
Thoughts, opinions, feedback?....
I have had this exact same thing happen on mine in the past as well. I have had this happen on the 7.5 gasser too. Both were one of three issues. First inspect your leeds and clean the crap out of the terminals and inner ring of the lead. The 7.3 appeared very clean, but a bit of water or moisture from a snow would sometime cause the issue, or any corrosion on the inner leed surface that touched the post.
Second I would go over to your fender mounted relay and check for corrosion and make sure the connections are tight. If you jump the terminals and you can hear the starter solenoid click, then your hot wire to the starter itself is either making a poor connection or completely corroded. There is a chance the started could go bad, but usually when they crap the bed, they don't uncrap the bed and work intermittently....usually...
. The least you can do is test the voltage at the starter and see what you are getting there when shorting out the relay.The last one is the ignition wire that is at the 12 o clock position on the fender relay that runs down to the starter solenoid. Ford actually had a recall on the 7.5s for it I believe, but the blade connector on the starter solenoid and about 2 inches of the wire would become severely corroded under the insulation. Using an insulated connector and replacing the wire solved the problem. I know this is not a 7.3, but I just fixed another 7.3 SD with this exact problem. The no start had me stumped at first... He had two 650 CCA Wal Mart crap batteries in that truck and it still started fine.
I have this happen a few times a year...and yes the timing is impeccable for the situation. If its not one of the three or a bad starter I am curious to what it may be. I might be fighting sometimes and not even know it.
I hope that helps a bit. I highly doubt its the batteries. The only time I have seen that was on a new battery with a dead cell on a gasser, but with two in our trucks even a dead cell would not prevent it from cranking.
I agree even with low voltage the truck will still turn over...
#25
02-27-2015, 09:48 AM
So, the load tester at napa showed both batteries had 12.5v and were flat as a pancake, wouldnt support any amp load.. Therefor, i bought two new ones even tho these may not have been the problem; it was time anyway.. I got them installed, same click.. The fender solenoid is pulling in and i again measured 10.9v on the starter side while turning the key.. Now i guess ill use my bump button on the fender solenoid measure viltage at the starter and check those connections again..
#26
02-27-2015, 09:50 AM
Post Fiend
I hear ya, i dunno if you read the 1st post but i jumped the fender relay and the starter solenoid clicked, then i measured the voltage across the fender relay when attempting to crank and got 10.5v.. Sounded low to me but someone mentioned what i was seeing the voltage drop from the starter attempting to engage. At this point I think the batteries are ok not awesome but ok. There at napa now on the load tester. Next is checking connections and voltage at the starter...
If you've eliminated the relay, then this sounds to me like a dirty connection somewhere. I agree that it's likely not the starter, as when they quit, that's usually it and there's no coming back. Check battery cable connections at both batteries, the connections at the starter, and the ground connection on the block.
#27
02-27-2015, 09:50 AM
That voltage loss is the load of the starter. If you did this while it was actually cranking, you'd see the same thing. Esp. if you cranked it using the key, you were also energizing the GPs, lowering the voltage further. Did you happen to measure that voltage at the starter relay with key on, but not cranking?
Here's another HF load tester, more bucks but more appropriate to our size batteries - 500 Amp Carbon Pile Load Tester
Here's another HF load tester, more bucks but more appropriate to our size batteries - 500 Amp Carbon Pile Load Tester
#28
02-27-2015, 09:51 AM
Laughing Gas
So, the load tester at napa showed both batteries had 12.5v and were flat as a pancake, wouldnt support any amp load.. Therefor, i bought two new ones even tho these may not have been the problem; it was time anyway.. I got them installed, same click.. The fender solenoid is pulling in and i again measured 10.9v on the starter side while turning the key.. Now i guess ill use my bump button on the fender solenoid measure viltage at the starter and check those connections again..
#29
02-27-2015, 09:56 AM
Hhmm, good to know.. The loud click i hear when turning the key after the wts light goes out is the relay on the starter. As I said ill look there next.. All connections top side are fresh and clean..
#30
02-27-2015, 09:59 AM
Logistics Pro
So, the load tester at napa showed both batteries had 12.5v and were flat as a pancake, wouldnt support any amp load.. Therefor, i bought two new ones even tho these may not have been the problem; it was time anyway.. I got them installed, same click.. The fender solenoid is pulling in and i again measured 10.9v on the starter side while turning the key.. Now i guess ill use my bump button on the fender solenoid measure viltage at the starter and check those connections again..