So, a typical cold weather topic. I did read a handful of threads concerning this trait. Let me tell you what's going on and what I've done and what I think it is..
So, the day I left for the Tug a couple weeks ago I had my truck parked in the driveway after running some errands that morning; the truck was essentially cold. I hopped in to put it in the garage and when I turned the ignition switch it did all its usual prestart whatnots but after the WTS light went out and I attempted to crank it and it just clicked... This was literally at the most inconvenient time.. This condition had never threatened before, always perfect cranking. My multimeter was dead and I had maybe 1/2 an hour to solve this or leave it out in the snow for two weeks... I grabbed my jump box and put it on the drivers side battery, still the same condition. Then the funny thing, or the thing that makes sense maybe. I went inside to watch a video on youtube about 7.3 no crank, I came back out and it fired up.. Batteries right!? I dunno... So, I took it for a quick ride then brought it back and put it in the garage, turned it off then fired it back up again no problem.


Now fast forward 14 days, I just got home today and went out plugged the truck in; left it for an hour and went to start it, no dice.....
This time I was a little more prepared and I had my multimeter, my charger w a start option and my jumpbox. First I opened both batteries and checked the acid level, good.. Then I removed all the terminals and put my meter on them, 12.5 and 12.5... Then I put the charger on one battery in the 15amp position for a couple minuets then switched it to the start option and no crank, just WTS then click. Battery volt gauge looked maybe a little lower than normal.. Mind you I didn't know where the click was coming from yet. BTW don't let my haphazard approach to trouble shooting be any sort of lesson to you...
Next, I put the jump box on the other battery and tried to start it, no dice, same thing.. These batteries are dated 12/12, Les Schwab 1000 cranking amps @ 32 degrees.
So now what.... Well, I came inside did a little more reading, then went back out tested the hot side of the solenoid on the passenger fender 12.5V, then I jumped the two big lugs and got a click at the starter, hmmmm, interesting... (truck is in neutral) Then, I grounded one side of my meter and put the other side on the "not always hot" side of the solenoid, got in the truck and attempted a normal start, after the WTS light went off and I turned the key I got 10.4V on my meter...
So, no I didn't load test the batteries but this was maybe a grass roots way? 10.4 isn't going to engage the starter will it? New batteries? Weird hugh..... Or maybe not... Its just strange how it progressed...
Thoughts, opinions, feedback?....

 

I wouldn't necessarily say it's bad batteries because of that test. Your starter could be bad or you could have a bad contact.

 

Find out where the clicking is coming from 10 volts should at least make the starter click I would think

The 10 volts seems like it would be the voltage drop from the draw on the starter maybe it's going out try tapping it with a hammer while someone cranks it of course take precautionary measures while under there

 

Well, 12.5 V is kinda low. I'd get the batteries load tested.
You could have a bad ground. I had the same thing happen once.

 

12.5 is normal battery voltage

 

I've never had a good battery test less than 12.8 on my voltmeter.

 

True true.. Before I pull the starter I'd like to make sure I've covered all my bases. At this point I don't think it's a connection.. The solenoid on the fender is pulling in and I think the click is the solenoid on the starter. Nowhere can I find the minimum voltage needed to spin the starter tho. As we know w/out a load that 12.5v is just a number possibly w/out any nut behind it... Anyone know what I need at the starter for volts in order to crank? I'll have my buddy come over and we'll run through as much as we can... I should see if someone has a load tester as well...

 

Batteries would be just too easy...
The only reason I don't think I have a ground issue is I'm getting power all the way down to the starter solenoid I believe. I realize anomalies happen where the ground is good enough to make a circuit but then when the load is applied it arcs but I doubt it in this case...

 

With the fender solenoid engaged? You can have a poor connection that seems to be OK until you put a high load to it, then it loses connection and can make a click sound when that happens.
To me pulling the batteries and having them tested is the easiest thing to do before I get more serious about it.

 

To me it sounds like a bad battery or connection... its not just volts you need to turn that starter...its the amperage and if you have one bad sell you can still see 12 volts...and just not have enought amperage to crank the starter while engaged to the fly wheel over...

I had a new battery in my f350 with a 460 in it...I had a bad motor ground (negative batter to block wire) its shielding was worn through where it was clamped to the frame and all corroded.

Took me 2 weeks to find it... +a starter by a mechanic... some days it would start some it wouldn't ... depended on temperature, humidity, etc

 

Um, have you tried turning the engine by hand?

Automatic or manual transmission? If manual, have you tried pull-starting it?

 

I agree with this. 12.5 volts is the minimum for a good battery. A load test on the batteries would be a good place to start IMO.

 

There are 6 cells in series at 2.1 volts per cell

Equals 12.6 volts fully charged

12.5 is not low on voltage

I agree it's the amps that needs checked but I doubt that is his problem

 

I'll have to disagree. A fully charged 12 volt battery should read 12.8 volts. a battery reading 12.5 volts is a little mor than75% charged, a little low. some readin for you.
Battery Basics: A Layman's Guide to Batte | BatteryStuff Articles

 

Interesting that that document ^^^^^ makes no mention of temperature. A fully charged battery could easily read lower than 12.7 at low ambient temperature. In any event, even at a 75% charge, two good 850CCA or better batteries should still crank the engine, even if slow. Of course, the voltage was taken at the junction point at the starter relay, so we don't know the voltage of each individual battery. And even more important, the batteries should be LOAD tested, in isolation, as suggested.

Still all moot, of course, until it's known that the engine will turn by hand.