With all that grease if you cut someone off, at least they can't see your plates.

Bummer about your truck breaking down.

I drove to San Fransisco with 75 gallons of grease in my 300d and blew out my rear differential in Utah. LOL



It is going to be cold this weekend but I am going to do the wiring anyway.

I am going to throw caution to the wind, clamp the crap of the aux coolant pump, and run it.

Will let you know how it goes.

 

"They sell filters! Lol."

Isn't that how the world works. I meant to say the housing manufacturer had some good reasons for having three filters. They don't sell filters, it is a small local outfit. The filters are parallel so all three filters plug up at an equal rate.

Don't take this as gospel. As I understand it, the design provides more filtering surface area for real good flow. The heat transfer to WVO is good because of the large housing. The internal ports where the WVO goes in and out of the filter are huge so it will never clog internally. Also, if one filter rips there are others to filter.

Bottom line. I went a bit overboard. I bought the filter housing first and built the system around it. It is totally over kill. Looking back, I think the filter is designed for someone who dumps crappy unfiltered grease into their tank straight from the dumpster. I use a centrifuge so I won't have to change the filters for a long time. LOL. The insides of the filter will rust before I have to change them. That has happened a couple times on my car.

****Big Endorsement for Veggie Garage to Follow****

Veggie garage sells very good quality products. Daves customer service is very good too. I have to give him a plug. His Efuel kit for the OBS powerstroke is really top notch quality and is a great value for the price. The stainless steel lines on the engine are perfect, the wiring borders on over engineered, it is an all around great kit. His efuel kit was a perfect start for me to build my own WVO side.

***back to original post***

There is a lot of hearsay to sift through when building a WVO system from scratch. On each of my projects I have had something I would have done something different. In hindsight I would have put one of the two filter housings in the truck. In fact a have one sitting unused in my basement! Ohhh well, I like the guy I bought the housing from, I had experience with his products, and I knew it would work good. Like you helping me with my truck, he helped me a ton building my system for the benz.

Anywhoooo! I need to drink coffee and and watch the turkey day parade.

I will be in touch after I freeze my a** off putting the wiring in.

 

Well, with 400hp in the X - they'd have to step it up to catch me if I did cut them off!!

I use offset conduit hangers (size 3.5??) to secure the coolant pumps.

I build my wiring harnesses on the bench and install them in the trucks in no time.



The relays and fuse block end up near the firewall on the drivers-side fenderwell - near the OE fuse block on '01 and older trucks. I use the power supply to that fuse box for power to the relays. (10mm nut on stud) The newer trucks also have a stud on the top off inner fender that is ideal for getting 12v from. Both of these go directly to the battery. Putting wires on the battery terminals is so GHETTO... It also increases corrosion at the battery terminals.

Then, small gauge wires run into the cab for the switches.

I also get 12v for the switches from the OE fuel pump on SuperDuty trucks. For the OBS with Wvo and svo diesel to vegetable oil conversion kit | Veggie Garage e-fuel kit, I would consider using the power from oil pressure switch - this way the pump(s) will shut off if the engine is not running.

Here's an idea that will help offset the heatsink - I mean your filters. I've had these covers made to go over the coolant wraps, but anything that helps separate 70mph frigid air from your warm fuel will help. Some of my customers just use the foil bubble wrap insulation and duct tape.



And yes, my suggestions are the result of doing conversions for 10yrs. If you dig around enough, you can probably find a few examples of 'where I came from'. Lol. I see nothing WRONG with anything you've done - you do beautiful work!! Can't wait to see it in person.

 

That loom looks really nice. Remind me not to take a picture of my relays!

I spliced my power for the WVO pump from the Efuel pump to utilize the shut off switch.

I added the tee for the fuel pressure gauge before the check valve as well.

 

Triumphant Victory.

Got everything hooked up. Ran for an hour on diesel in WVO tank. Had a few small leaks because I didn't want to over tighten the aluminum, JIC, or compression fittings. Got them tight and everything is working great. Aux coolant pump works, gauges work great, constant 65 pounds of pressure, purge valve opens right. Everything got real hot (40 degrees outside). I have 15 gallons of diesel in the WVO tank to burn this week and then its time for WVO!!!!!!! and I have two weeks to test run it before we head to MI.

I couldn't have done it without your help. I want to thank you again for all the time and effort you put into helping me.

 

Congratulations!!! I promise that kinda whole body 'smirk' feeling ya get when burning WVO on a long trip NEVER GETS OLD!!

I run my VO pressure at 75psi, the max rating for the filters I use. The engine doesn't care about a little higher pressure and it provides a higher delta over the D2 pressure (if both pumps are on at the same time, the one with most pressure goes to the injectors).

It's not a great idea to heat diesel. I think HOT diesel loses enough of its lubricity to cause damage.

 

Cleaned 50 gallons of WVO yesterday. I can't wait to pump the whole thing directly into my tank right from the barrel.

I have heard the same thing about hot diesel. I didn't have the ***** to test the system with WVO. LOL. All the air bubbles are out of the system and it is heating up real nice now. I will turn the heat off to the wvo system this week.

 

Spoke too soon!!!

The WVO system was working perfectly. Started it up after work on the WVO side and the pressure dropped steadily from 65 to 15-20 pounds and stayed there. I figured it was out of fuel or there needed to be a vent in the tank. I drove it home and put some wvo in the tank. No luck. I did some quick testing on the pump. It is runnnig and gets 14volts. Disconnected the fitting to the motor it is getting some fuel but not much. Pre filter is clean. Disconnected the fitting on the pump and there is not much fuel coming out. So it is either the pump, a clog between the tank and the pump, or something simple and dumb.

My next plan is to hook the pump directly up to a bucket of diesel to test and then look for a clog from the tank to the pump. My money is on the pump. The way it happened suddenly doesn't point to a clog. Now the system has a bunch of WVO it in it. Either way there is going to be a hell of a mess in the new driveway. LOL.

 

I also checked the setting on the FPR. It is not the problem. There is a chance the FPR is sending too much fuel back to the tank. Before I get too crazy I am going to clamp the return line and see it that helps.

 

update, got in there today. ran the fuel pump from a container, changed the hose that connects the TIH to the pre filter and wha la things are good. i am a little nervous because i don't know exactly what happened, but there are worse things than having the truck run good. ran it for two hours today on WVO. it was awesome.

 

Probably an air pocket on the suction side. Yes, your tank needs to be vented.


The FPR is about the most bulletproof component in the system. No need to 2nd guess it until all else fails. The only failure mode for FPR is a torn diaphragm and that will leak out of the adjustment screw area.

Are you returning fuel all the way to the tank or did you loop the return into the suction line at the tank??

If I think I'm having an issue getting pump to prime, first I unscrew the filter so there is no pressure on the discharge side of the pump - then if that doesn't help, I will apply some air pressure to the fuel tank. (shop vac on 'blow' is a pretty safe way to do this)

Since I mount my filters horizontally, cracking them open like this doesn't make a mess. Just put a cup or drain pan under it and unscrew.

 

I am starting to think it was air as well. Thats good news.

The return from the FPR is tee'd into the suction line. The purge line goes back directly to the tank. There is an extra port on the tank I can use as a vent. Duh!!!

 

Good deal. You want to tee the return into the suction - right at the tank is best. This greatly reduces the load on the pump and adds a tremendous amount of heat to the fuel.

 

Update:

Truck was running great on WVO....then it was stolen from in front of my house a few months ago. I was really mad for a month. It turns out the F series trucks are the third most stolen car in Denver.

I haggled with the insurance and got close to what the new truck cost me. It could have been a lot worse if I didn't have pics. I would encourage anyone with an older truck with modifications too take detailed pics and save the receipts.

The new truck is a crew cab dually in better shape with lower miles. So I am the cost of a few mods, what the system cost, and my time. I will be able to design the new system a bit better. The new truck is in storage until I can get a garage built. I will post up some pics of the new system when I do it, but it will be a while.

Bill

 

That SUCKS! Sounds like take 2 is a nicer truck and the 2nd time around will always be better!!

Look up SpringerPop's write-up for security system. I've installed this design on a few trucks.