hey guys. looking at a 2003 6.0 on a lot near my base. its an XLT, 4x4, extended cab with 8 ft bed. kicker is it has 322k on it. unable to get service history on it. they are asking 7500 for it. looking for a diesel for when i ets outta the army to haul my mustang home and all my crap. i hear mix reviews on the 6.0. hear of bad, with this and that breaking on it. then also read if ya replace the studs, egr delete, and fix the sensor that causes it to crank no start....forget the name...and keep up on maint they are good. looking at it tomorrow to look at the basics, tires brakes, engine, etc. was woundering what your guys opinion on price and all was. KBB puts a fair dealer price at 11k but i was thinking no way. i am mechanically incline....was a mechanic before the army. just seeing if everything checks out if i should move forward or pass. not alot of cash in the bank....enough for a small deposit. so trying to finance but finding and older 7.3 on a lot is slim to none around me.

thanks guys

 

First, buy some digital gauges
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html
Read this^^

Then go shopping.

 

thank you for the link jswartz84. very very helpful. after i look at it tomorrow ill post what i find.

 

Def. What jswartz84 posted. My only comment on then one you posted (without looking at the truck) is that it seems kinda high on the price for that year and mileage. IMO. I suppose I may have gotten lucky on mine but it's a 06 had less than 140k miles and I got it for 7k ( it did need a bed though) but until you put a gauge to it and do a proper shake down you never know. Good luck with your search. Do what these guys tell you and you'll get in a fine truck. I know if it wasn't for these guys I'm sure I would have gotten screwed.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Thanks kdavid1. I thought it was high as well. Like i said gonna look at it tomorrow see what happens

 

http://ksu.craigslist.org/ctd/4874732657.html

Heres the link to the truck

 

Might just be the pic but looks like green coolant bad sign but fixable.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Im assuming uses gold or orange coolant? And whats the proper process to change it...normal flush with a hose thru the coolant lines? And what damage might be caused with it

 

In the tech folder there is a good procedure for doing a proper flush but first things first of course. Making sure the truck and engine are sound. If green coolant you can deal with it after. Main thing iirc is the fact it has lots of silica that drops out and clogs the oil cooler, which blows the egr cooler which pops the head gaskets. Main thing is if the normal maint. has been done. Quite honestly if that puppy has 300+k on if I would assume maint has been done regularly. You may have already read up on what to look for and a real must is having the scangauge or obdii and app. If not you are flying blind. Be the first to start the truck in the morning and do a proper temp split test, check for blowby, icp pressure, ficm volt, alt volt, degas puke, check degas for oil and fuel, check oil for fuel, and make sure you have coolant flow ( a guy posted where the over flow tube was rtv to stop degas puke). Basically spend a good 2 hours min going over it and taking the test drive.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Don't go by color. There is no required standard based on color.

Get an EC-1 rated ELC coolant, Just be careful, there are ELC coolants that are Dexcool type coolants, that is NOT what you want.

 

Appreciate the info guys.....was worried all i would get was screw 6.0s haha. Appreciate everything....due to my schedule i had to push back looking at it till tonight instead of during lunch.....so will update after i look at it

 

Good idea. In my op. lunch isn't enough time. At least a couple of hours.

 

$7,500 is to much for that truck, I don't care what options it has in it....

 

well little update. looked at it quickly tonight, got outta work late and they guy stayed just so i could look at it after they closed, so didnt get into it to much. but so far it seems like a decent truck. i agree with 2006powerstroke. def isnt worth asking price. so far what i found:

Powersteering is dry and has a whine....so needs a pump. steered ok but noisey

valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. both leaking by the firewall a decent amount. nothing but changing them out.

ABS light was on, couldnt give me a code yet, but guy said he will look into it and get a print out for me.

transmission appears to be replaced.....just looked less old then rest of drivetrain. i could be wrong. fluid appeared to be normal no burnt smells or dark color. but def wasnt new so wasnt like they were trying to cover it.

transfer case, difs, and trans were all dry. minimal dampness around pan, couldnt tell if it was the pan or rear main. but was minimal.

new tires and brakes all around.

it DOES have the green coolant as mentioned before by Kdavid.

interior is about 7 or 8 outta 10. no stains or anything, but 3 cig burns in seat. everything worked as it should....pw/pl etc.

only drove it roughly 5 miles. when i first started it very minimal white smoke came out of the exhaust, and quicky faded. couldnt smell any fuel/coolant from the exhaust. was 35 degrees outside and started right up. had a rough idle for roughly 30 secs then cleared up. guy said truck hasnt moved in 2 weeks. i wouldnt assume that shouldnt matter, should start up and idle fine from start, but not sure?

Driving it it drove fine. no whobble or anything in steering wheel or truck itself. got on it hard and no smoke out of exhaust. no shutter or hesitation. brakes did feel a little weird. maybe a very slight shake in the peddle. possible rotors or something....or maybe part of being a hydroboost set up or whatever it is.

no white residue around the coolant bottle. however engine compartment was detailed....so may have been there. but bottle appeared to be clean.

as i said, saturday ill go into detail when i dont have to worry bout work. will jack up the front end, check everything out. take it for a good 30 to 45 min drive and check coolant and oil temps. go into more detail on the drivetrain and all.

just curious. IF, and ofcourse its an if, with what i mentioned above, if everything else is 100 percent, where should i start on price haggling. was thinking of starting low round 5500 and try and go no higher then 6200. clean retail is 11k which is way over i think. average trade in is 7350. this is according to NADA.

 

Good job so far--just make sure to get the scangauge or whatever on it when you do the full run down.
One thing with the green coolant it could be the ford add pack but I still wouldn't trust it. On the oil it may or may not be valve covers but all are pretty easy fixes. Also on the rear doubt it is the rear main as they rarely leak-but it's possible. Again it's probably draining from the valley somewhere. On the smoke that more than likely was condensation so no biggy. Which ever way you go it's best (money and confidence wise) if you wrench yourself.

2006 F350 4X4