Good work! Keep it up! Making my hand twitch just thinking about turning a wrench again!

On the note of the quoted text, I called USAA about any discounts I could get for upgrades to my truck. The DRM is one of those! Find a DRM and wire it in, you could get a discount for having them, it's not a lot, but it would save you a couple bucks on your premium! I found a couple on ebay for pretty cheap, something I might think of looking into.

 

Well guys I have been looking at what I want to order. I just need to get some advice on what else will need to be done while I am in there. Rosewood stage three injectors. Strictly diesel dual bosch race fuel setup, adrenaline or terminator Hpop, d66 turbo, 6.0 intercooler, arp headstuds, ts informant, gasket kit, bellowed up pipes. As of right now that is what I have on my shopping cart. Id like to get most of my stuff via Clay but I know some of the mentioned things he doesn't carry. What other supporting mods will I need to withstand the upgrades. I am torn between the stage three and stage two. I want to have a good reliable truck that can pull my 30 ft gooseneck loaded to 28k with little issues. If you guys think of anything else that I will need please tell me. The truck is going to also get new core support, front fenders and cab corners. (going to try and save the body)

 

the more I get into this I never realized that stage three's were that far out there.... Im looking at replacing everything from the fan to the rear bumper.. maybe stage ones are where I should be at. what are your guys thoughts. I want something that can pull my trailers and be reliable. that's all I want out of this truck, id rather spend 10k on this engine and drivetrain, then go and buy a new 60k truck that gets worse fuel mileage. Don't get me wrong I am thinking of putting it back together and selling it as the new 6.7 come stock with the Hp im looking for. I guess I am asking to be steered away or further into this adventure. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

 

Id highly suggest ditching the d66, and sticking with a more moderate injector setup. 2s with supporting mods will put down more to the rear wheels than a 2015 6.7. Remember they are 440/880 at the crank out of the box.

If you are planning on regularly and reliably towing a goose with 28k in it or 28k total with trailer you need a different truck. You will be grossing out to close to 40k. Well over the 26 your is rated for.Good luck stopping 28k behind an OBS without significant brake upgrades.

 

Wow, this project got big in a hurry! I'm here to watch it go!

Is that 28k GCVW or 28k plus the truck? There's a big difference.

I would stay away from the stage 3's for a work truck and go with nothing bigger than 2's. If you're going to work it hard, I would personally stick with the 1s or 1.5s. That's just my personal opinion, but to each his own. The thing is the more fuel you add, the more air you have to push with the turbo to keep it cool. Unless you're looking at grossing 28k on a regular basis and towing it up mountain passes, I'd settle on stage 1s or 2s, go with a T4 kit instead of the D66 (a TON more options as far as turbos go, and cheaper to boot) and go with that. Don't forget you'll need a better clutch to put that power to the ground too. Add another $1k to that bill, lol.

It's fun watching other people spend their money building these things!

 

Just go buy a semi for Pete sake.

 

That's 28k not GCVW. Fordman67... Was thinking about it but still want something that I can pull a boat or a 4 place snowmobile trailer without being as big a douche as dodge owners pulling ghost trailers all the time.

 

Well there ya go.

 

If you don't want to be smoking out the intersections, go smaller on the injectors. Stage 1 or 1.5 and then do a mild turbo upgrade (s366 is a popular choice, as is s467). Until the turbo gets spooled, stage 3 injectors will make smoke. Lots of smoke.

Unless we're talking about the Titanic here, you won't have any issue pulling a boat or a 4 place sled hauler with stage 1's. It's easier in my opinion to build a solid, reliable work truck that can tow well and put all that power to the ground with stage 1 or 1.5 injectors than it is with stage 2 or bigger. You can do it, but you're going to have a harder time keeping the EGT's low enough so that you can stay in the skinny pedal.

 

What if you are building for " because race truck?"

Stage 2's aren't that much more than 1.5's and you can always run them detuned until you have the supporting mods for full stage 2's.

 

I just know I have talked to a couple people who have built rigs to tow heavy and used stage 2's and wished later that they had used stage 1's. I know it seems odd, but with that much fuel and working it hard, it's just hard to make it all work like you want it to. Glenn has about the closest to a properly running tow rig with stage 2's and he can't keep it cool enough with an IC, WM injection, and a S366. Darin tows about the same size rig and does it just fine with Stage 1's, with less trouble keeping the EGTs down. Go stage 2's and tow with the fuel of Stage 1's, if you want, just know that to tow heavy with 2s you'll have to keep them turned back to about the same level as stage 1's anyhow. The juice is there, but you can't use it anyway.

 

How do guys that build them for race trucks even keep it cool enough to support hybrids then?!

Well that has changed my minds on getting stage 2's then. I'll just go 1's or 1.5's and then use that extra money for some other upgrades.

 

The difference is that a race truck doesn't go WOT for more than 15 second at a time. When you're talking about towing you're looking at how long you can keep it going before it gets so hot that you have to get out of it. Talk to anybody that tows with anything bigger than stage 1's and they will tell you that you drive by the EGT gauge. You watch it constantly, and it tells you when you have to get out of the throttle.

Don't get me wrong, stage 2's are great injectors and work great in these trucks, but for something that is being built with towing in mind, you're not going to be able to use all the fuel they can spray and you have to drive around the power. If you're building it for towing you don't need 500 HP anyway. It will be more reliable, more durable, and more usable at 350 or 400 HP. Stage 2's are a great way to build a fun truck that also tows occasionally, but if you're building a tow rig and you want reliable, usable power, my opinion is that you either need to go bigger on the turbo to keep it cool or go smaller on the injectors.

That's just my .02.

 

I don't completely agree with you Nate. You can't really compare Darin and Glenn's Riggs because your basing it on weight alone. Wind plays a massive part in towing. I haven't paid much attention but Glenn's setup seems to sit above the truck a lot more than Darin's which will need a considerable amount of more fuel to keep I going. As well as that most people get there injectors from rosewood and if you look the only difference is the nozzle size between 1's, 1.5's, and 2's. So the only way your getting the extra power is by having a faster injection time as opposed to the fuel chasing after the piston. I think it would be cool to put both Darin and glens trucks on a dyno and see who actually has the better power at say 1200*'s

 

Thanks for the .02C Nate! I'm not building for towing all the time. Don't get me wrong, I'll probably tow when it comes time to PCS, or haul my car, but for now it's a fun truck, not a work horse like all of you build for.. Keeping in mind I'm only 25, and don't have a camper, or a family yet. Eventually I'll probably use it for it's intended purposes though.