Awesome! Thank you.

 

Threw a donor battery in and it sounded much better. Still not starting, but better. Also reconnected the alarm system and was able to deactivate it. Unfortunately i had to attend my brother in laws birthday dinner so i couldnt do much more. I'll post the updated video on my YouTube, just realized i broke the forum rules adding the links.... whoops. Anyways check my channel and it'll be there. Thanks again guys, your making this a possible victory for me.

 

Now that you have another battery in it, redo the fuel pressure readings as the numbers you posted were Way low. We need 64 +/-8 psi.

 

Will do. What are your thoughts on picking up a used battery from a wreckers yard? I know its typically a bad idea and I'd buy a brand new one once i got it running. Just for troubleshooting sake....

 

Try recharging the battery that was in it. Salvage yard batteries are unknowns, as we don't now how hard a hit the vehicle took & how much of that jar got to the battery plates, nor what internal damage it might have done. If you go that way, try & choose a newer dated battery from a wreck without any, or much damage to the front end & take your multimeter & hydrometer to do some testing before buying, to try & up your odds some.
If you come to want a new battery, so as not to pay full retail, look around for discount codes like here. http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

 

I have to second this, junk yard batterys are generally a bad idea. Usually you can find some good discount codes online for online purchases. I may even have some Auto zone coupon books I can mail you if need be. Will look around for those.

I was checking out your new videos and I noticed in one video the ECU was missing o.0 Thats kind of a mission critical piece lol. make sure that is plugged in securely. She sounded a lot better with your doner battery. We know your getting fuel to the rails at least, have you done a spark test at the plugs to see if she is getting spark to the cylinders? Check to see if they are still gaped correctly and not fouled out?

If you have the model number off the viper brain I can do some homework for you on it, see if there is a cut off that can be bypassed for it.

Keep posting your your progress up, I've got all the books out for this one.

 

Thanks guys. Been busy, new job. Here are the only numbers i could see on the brain.
Des 345,711
FCC Id EZSDEI430-A
Scan bar code V700503108
Random sticker number 387138
Honestly, the alarm is in and working and i wouldnt mind having it. I still have the little motion detector out and plan on leaving it out (i remember it being touchy). I would like to find a way to deactivate the siren sincevit goes off every time i install the donor battery. I'll be heading to AutoZone to rent the fuel pressure gauge later today and I'll update you all on that soon. Not looking forward to checking spark, half the plugs are under the intake manifold. .....

 

Found out the four plugs under the manifold should be for emissions, so pulled the four on the passenger side and they've seen better days. They were dry and smelled of gas, but i hadn't been cranking the engine prior to removal. Tested the coil pack with an ohm meter and its readings were good. Threw in new plugs (on the one side) and added some fuel stabilizer. At first turn it sounded like it was going to start, but didn't. I will do an actual visual spark test tomorrow and hopefully do the gear oil change by monday afternoon. My local AutoZone had all three fuel pressure gauges schrader valves pulled out, so im waiting on replacements or next time I'm near another. Feeling the pressure with this new job coming, please dont give up yet guys! Also, should i leave the alarm brain box out after pulling it out?

 

Just did a spark test alone. Just jumped the starter solenoid with a plug grounded. Got a decently bright, orange, spark. From what ive heard orange isnt great, but should still fire. Think i might call around and find a fuel pressure gauge today, just to lay that to rest. Will a lack of gear oil make a difference on getting the engine to start? Thanks again.

 

Gear oil is used in Manual transmissions and differentials...Do you perhaps mean engine oil? If so you should check your oil to be sure there is plenty in there and that it is not with water. Technically you can start an engine without motor oil...But it is the absolutely worst possible thing you could do to an engine and will definitely cause damage.

 

Yeah, it has engine oil. Someone mentioned gear oil possibly being low.

 

Well gear oil is important, If your driving the truck around heh you need that stuff. But for the sake of starting it, your transmission and differential fluid levels would not affect it starting at all.

What would affect your engine starting is Air Fuel and Spark, What would keep it running would be compression and motor oil, The engine still turns freely without notable issues. It sounds like it has compression. I didn't hear any dreaded ticking pinging or back firing. So keep up the search! Its one of the 3 major things, air fuel and spark.

If you've had the battery hooked up for a while and have made a few attempts to get it started its possible you may have a check engine code waiting for you. If you know someone with a code scanner have them give it a check. A code would save you lots of searching.

 

I'll tell you, I'm having chest pains from the stress! What you just said helped my moral immensely.
Any issue with the orange spark off the plug? I might not of had it grounded well enough.
So i can pull codes just after cranking the engine? Always thought you had to drive x amount of miles first? If not, my brother in law has a code scanner so that will be easy.
Thanks again!

 

Try ether in the air box.
If it try's to start then the problem is fuel related, check the fuel pump
If it's still no, then the problem is timing, check the timing, start with the pistion at TDC and check all the timing parameters, i.e., valves closed, valves open, piston at TDC.


Is this engine the 3.0?

 

Some error codes will show up right away, most will only show with mileage.
If you try to start the truck a couple times. Observe your cluster. If the key is in the ON position (Position 3) and they check engine light is still on after attempting to start it, that most likely means there is a code in the system.

Normally when you turn the key to the ON position your Check engine light will illuminate for a few seconds and then go out as part of a self check.

If there is a problem with the some of the more important electrical systems a code will appear right away.

I feel your pain, these things can be quite stress full. I will tell you what a very wise teacher taught me. "When you are overwhelmed and frustrated with what you are working on, Walk away. Grab a cold one and just sit down next to it for a while. Sometimes the solution will only come to you, when you have a clear head"

Don't let it kill you, The truck will wait for you. Sure there is a problem with it, but eventually you will find it. Only so many parts in that engine bay, don't let them intimidate you and most definitely don't be afraid to dig in.

(PS: it has been mentioned it might be fuel related, Little trick I used to do when I was younger to weed out a bad fuel pump was to disconnect the air box hose, OPEN the throttle body flap on the intake and spray a healthy dose of Starting fluid/break cleaner inside. When you crank it over it should at least sputter. I've gotten a few motors to run for at least a few minutes doing that. If it happens to start well know its time to start looking at the fuel system.)