Project: 1971 F250 2wd becomes 4wd

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#31

05-08-2015, 03:49 AM

IDIoit

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sweet project!
i have a 71 CS that ive been really thinking about making 4wd.
just cant bring myself to modify my dads ole truck.
still in the middle of the seesaw.

did you research putting 05+ axles in?
i wounder if they would fit in without modifying the frame minus the radius rods.
but the metric bolt pattern sucks IMO.

lookin good.
dont know about that HEI tho....
GM designed parts, i try to stay away from lol
running a petronix in mine.

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#32

05-08-2015, 09:35 AM

Zazoos

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I can appreciate not wanting to change a family truck. Tough decision indeed.

I did not look into the new axles, just didn't want to add another thing to the long list. I like Petronix even have one on our 1972 Camaro, but the truck is more budget minded and HEI distributor was only $70.00.

Trent

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#33

05-08-2015, 09:55 AM

Freightrain

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To get the glass out, just take a sharp razor blade and cut the rubber gasket around the window. The glass will fall out easily and then just pull the rubber off the cab. I would assume you are replacing with new rubber anyway. If not, you have to slowly work the inside lip out of the cab and push the glass/rubber out in one piece. Ugh, new rubber is much easier.

Instead of HEI, how about a Duraspark distributor firing an MSD(or even a Duraspark box)? That would look more "Fordish" then a big HEI sticking out there. I had those things personally.

BTW, great work so far.

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#34

05-14-2015, 01:07 PM

Zazoos

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Looking for a body mount kit. I found this one:
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9; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style> <![endif]-->Truck Body Mount And Hardware Kit-Broncograveyard.com

It appears to include the radiator core support, but does not state that in the listing. What do you think?

Can you think of any reason this would not work for a 1971 F250?

Thanks,
Trent

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#35

05-27-2015, 11:00 PM

Zazoos

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Thanks for the tips on removing the windshield.

The body mount kit from Bronco Graveyard worked great and does include the core support hardware.

Making some progress on the truck.

Decided to go without a dash pad and just have a metal dash so I had fill some holes, which you can sort of see in the picture below. I had the truck turned up like this to apply POR 15 to the bottom.

Hung plastic in the shop and put together a makeshift paint booth and painted the cab. Shopline black basecoat with Deltron 4000 clear.

Since I am putting a 71 body on a 73 frame, I had to go ahead and mount the cab and then set the bed on to figure out what modifications are required to the bed prior to completing the body work. I know I have to move the fuel filler neck and will add some pictures of the relocation asap. For future reference if somebody is doing this same project, The bed must be raised in the front roughly 3/4 inches to line up with the cab. Rear does not need to be raised and sits directly on the frame. I trimmed 5/16 inch off the rear of the truck frame in order to get the bed to cab gap correct. Keep in mind I moved my leaf spring perches forward 1.75 inches. If I was doing it again i would move the perches forward 2 inches, but I its close enough to keep the cab to bed gap and have the tires centered up in the wheel wells.

Front fuel filler hole being plugged.

Here is some filler that was already on the truck. Not for sure what this stuff is, kind of like a gold colored JB weld. Anyway, I have ground it off and mig welded up the cracks and holes.

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#36

05-28-2015, 12:13 PM

bajafishnut

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Looking good amigo, and you appear to be doing it right. I always caution restorers to take their time and do it right the first time. Do not hurry, you will be glad in the end, that you took the time. Are you undercoating it? I did on my restore, and sprayed that goop inside and outside (under) the cab, as well as the firewall & fender guards. It not only rust proofed it, but helped with the sound deadening.

Good job, I will follow this build..

Baja

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#37

06-04-2015, 10:18 PM

Zazoos

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A bit more progress to report.

The underside of the truck bed is coated with POR 15 and we went with Al's Liner for the bed. Used 2 gallons of the liner, but 3 would have been better. Prior to spraying the liner we applied Shopline JP 215 etch primer which is a green color. I am really impressed with Al's liner at this point. Seems like it will hold up well, but time will tale.

The truck bed was well used by the PO. Some body filler and the liner really dressed it up/ hid the worst of it.

I notched the frame to give the fuel filler hose some breathing room. To strengthen the frame I added 1/4" plate 18" long.

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#38

06-04-2015, 11:07 PM

bajafishnut

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I would add some stiffeners to the inside of that plate. In a C channel. all the strength is in the upper and lower 'ears', which keep the center from bending. To strengthen the plate you added, put in some 1/4" x 2" x 18" stiffeners, which will act like "Whalers" in forming for cement. just saying...

Baja

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#39

06-07-2015, 10:58 PM

Zazoos

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Baja,

Thanks for the tip.

Didn't get much done on the F250 this weekend, instead got to hang out at the airport and help with a gyro construction. This gyro is a kit from Germany and the craftsmanship is top notch. When completed it will look like the yellow in the background.

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#40

06-18-2015, 10:30 AM

Zazoos

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Need some help. I am planning on doing the 78/79 power steering conversion. I would like to use my 1971 steering column, but not for sure how to attach the linkage. Originally my 71 column attached directly to the gear box. I have a 73 column I could use for parts. See picture below. How do people attach an intermediate shaft when doing this conversion?

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#41

06-18-2015, 11:32 AM

orich

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The 73 is 4wd column & mid shaft. The 71 should hook back up with a rag joint coupler like the end flange shaft is setup for already.
Orich

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#42

06-18-2015, 11:37 AM

Zazoos

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Orich,

Can you get a mid shaft with a rag joint at one end and the coupler at the other, so I can mate the new gear box to the 71 column?

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#43

06-18-2015, 11:42 AM

orich

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Zazoos

Orich,

Can you get a mid shaft with a rag joint at one end and the coupler at the other, so I can mate the new gear box to the 71 column?

You'll have to mickey mouse weld something up with no replacement parts when doing it like this. Best do it with oem parts

The steeling box should have a splined shaft end for the use of a rag joint coupler..
Orich

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#44

06-18-2015, 11:46 AM

orich

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Maybe your column tube is not slide down far enough to reach the Steering box shaft to make the hook up.
Orich

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#45

06-19-2015, 12:51 AM

Zazoos

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Orich,

The mating issue is due to the 71 2wd column mounts to the gear box almost immediately after exiting the firewall. There is no mid/intermediate shaft. Since I am doing a 71 body onto a 73 frame and using a 78 gear box I will have to find a mid/intermediate shaft, but want to continue to use my 71 column, which has the rag joint setup rather than a coupler. I have found a few rag joint to short shaft stubs or rag joint to coupler setups I can use. Also found a telescoping shaft with coupler on one end and rag joint on the other. I will figure something out.

I could use help finding a speedo cable for a 1971 4x4 with an automatic. I can find them for a manual tranny but not an automatic.

Thanks

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