2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute.
Then the truck wouldn't start at all.

Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.

48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?

I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.

The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.

Advice?

 

Make shure your plugs are seated and latched in. No bent, corroded pins or pins backed out male or female. May need the logic board checked. FICM repair.com is a good place.

 

Just replacing the power module fixes 3 out of 4 it seems. Sounds like you might have a problem with the logic bored meaning it might be time to send it to get repaired or just replace with a reman.

 

Replaced FICM, with a preprogrammed unit but still no start and no codes.
What next?

 

Not sure, maybe check the connections at the back of the ficm. Make sure they are all snug. It is easy to break the tabs off so they don't lock in place.

Or possibly what Grant was getting at the ficm has 2 parts: the logic board and the power board. More often the power board fails and it is an easy fix/replacement. It is possible the logic board failed instead.

If you really want to get some good ficm info give Ed a call at ficmrepair.com. He is the ficm guru for lack of a better name. He really knows his stuff, will talk your ear off, and I'm sure he'd be more than happy to help you figure it out.

 

A gauge to read live data

 

Have you inspected the FICM wire harness? Sounds like its not getting full voltage through the harness.. "Relay seems good". Have you checked voltage drop across it?

 

^^^---Bingo! It hard to talk details online without info. We can guess and help you spend money on parts but I'm sure you'd like to just buy the one that fixes it.

Here's a thread to help give you an idea of what's available, what they can do, and what they cost. Some are suprisingly inexpensive and can be a big help zeroing in on the problem.

Click here---> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

 

Scangauge arrived yesterday, programmed it and ran the checks.

FMP 48.5V KOEO and while cranking = Ok
FLP 12.0V KOEO and while cranking = Ok
SYC 1 while cranking = OK
IPR 14% KOEO and 85% while cranking = bad
ICP O KOEO and while cranking gets up to about 150 PSI = bad.
While cranking the crankcase oil pressure comes up to normal.

Time to start wrenching to find source.

 

Wow, talk about taking a different direction

Looks like the old scangauge may have paid for itself yet again

 

Early or late 2004 truck? (Icp on the passenger side valve cover on late '04)

 

Build date is Feb 2004.

 

Sounds like you're on it. Of course leaks anywhere in the system can cause low pressure, the IPR valve may be bindidng or defective. The early trucks have a pretty solid High Pressure Oil system, unfortunately the weakest link (just going by the odds) was the pump it's self. Late '04 and up trucks got a better pump but new plumbing issues.

Anyway, if you have the metric fitting required to put shop air in the icp hole and use a jumper wire to close the icp, a bad pump can be verified by air leaking into the oil filter housing. Or out of the weep hole on the pump it's self. Check the Tech folder for more details on the air test procedure. Often the pump will clearly be binding if you remove it and turn the gear by hand. Rebuilt pumps can be as iffy (and expensive) as the origonal, even from Ford. If the budget allows, you might consider an aftermarket "high performance" unit.

 

I've actually learned to trust the auto parts store reman early pumps more than the Fords. More come backs from dealer pump failure.

 

Turbo out. ICR screen is ripped and has little chunks of gray rubbery stuff stuck to it.

HPOP cover next.