Current Ball Joint Question
#31
04-18-2015, 04:35 PM
I drilled my originals and still going strong at 144k!
This a good thread,
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
#32
04-18-2015, 06:40 PM
This a good thread,
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Yes, I drilled and installed my zerks into the bottom of both lower ball joints laying on my back in the driveway with the tires on.
#33
04-18-2015, 06:41 PM
#34
04-19-2015, 09:32 AM
Posting Guru
#35
04-19-2015, 09:38 AM
Posting Guru
Anyone who stumbles on this thread, I posted where the shop did my uppers only.... If you have it apart, change all four, it does make sense. The lower on my drivers side took a rapid dump over the last month. Vibrations at speed were the tipoff that something was wrong and I was looking for issues with my new X/C springs, but low and behold, pry bar under the tire trick and I can clearly see the lower on the drivers side is quite sloppy loose. So much for the shop saving me some money. At least I have a third vehicle to drive and a 20 ton press, and a separate ball joint press if that doesn't do the trick, so I can attempt to replace the lowers myself this time. Might do new unit bearings while I have it apart since I hate doing things twice.
AAAAHHHA CRAP
#36
04-19-2015, 05:36 PM
No pics, sorry. But picture an old fat guy laying on his back on an asphalt driveway with a right angle drill. I gobbed some grease onto the bottom of the bottom ball joints and the drill bit (to hopefully capture and stray metal shavings from the drilling). Then I just drilled a hole into the center-ish of each lower ball joint and then installed a pair of the hammer in style zerk fittings, I don't recall the exact name for them but you just hammer them into the proper sized hole vs having to tap threads. Then I pumped red Mobil 1 synthetic grease into each joint.
#37
04-19-2015, 06:27 PM
Posting Guru
No pics, sorry. But picture an old fat guy laying on his back on an asphalt driveway with a right angle drill. I gobbed some grease onto the bottom of the bottom ball joints and the drill bit (to hopefully capture and stray metal shavings from the drilling). Then I just drilled a hole into the center-ish of each lower ball joint and then installed a pair of the hammer in style zerk fittings, I don't recall the exact name for them but you just hammer them into the proper sized hole vs having to tap threads. Then I pumped red Mobil 1 synthetic grease into each joint.
Good enough, was wondering if you went in to the bottom center. Did you install a 90deg zerk ?? Never seen a hammer in
#39
04-19-2015, 08:31 PM
No pics, sorry. But picture an old fat guy laying on his back on an asphalt driveway with a right angle drill. I gobbed some grease onto the bottom of the bottom ball joints and the drill bit (to hopefully capture and stray metal shavings from the drilling). Then I just drilled a hole into the center-ish of each lower ball joint and then installed a pair of the hammer in style zerk fittings, I don't recall the exact name for them but you just hammer them into the proper sized hole vs having to tap threads. Then I pumped red Mobil 1 synthetic grease into each joint.
#41
04-22-2015, 12:32 PM
Lead Driver
I'm guessing you will lose your warranty if you drill out new joints.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
#42
04-22-2015, 12:38 PM
I'm guessing you will lose your warranty if you drill out new joints.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
Sorry to hear your lowers are bad.
#43
04-22-2015, 12:43 PM
Cargo Master
I'm thinking of drilling my sloppy lower just to see what difference it makes...my new moog uppers and lowers should arrive tomorrow though so it would just be an experiment until I change them. Probably dont need uppers as they are only a year or so old but I can't go this far and only do the lowers. Not again.
#44
04-22-2015, 01:12 PM
My ex has 116k, neither upper or lower have zerks. I have done every recommendation re wandering even a new red head box.
No obvious slop in any of the linkage.
Alignment done a few weeks ago.
The overall characteristics of the truck where at a 9 upon buying it at 104k
Now they are at a 2-3, with wandering being the only concern, which was dramatically reduced with the box though.
Red head offered to send another but recommend I look closer at the lower ball joints as they may be sticking.
No obvious slop in any of the linkage.
Alignment done a few weeks ago.
The overall characteristics of the truck where at a 9 upon buying it at 104k
Now they are at a 2-3, with wandering being the only concern, which was dramatically reduced with the box though.
Red head offered to send another but recommend I look closer at the lower ball joints as they may be sticking.
#45
04-22-2015, 01:23 PM
<br/>
The drill bit is 5/16, .010 smaller than the barbs of the fitting.<br/><br/>Removing tire would have gotten a tad straighter angle.....buy I'm impatient...<br/><br/>
Proper use of tools is rule number 40.<br/>1/4" drive 7mm socket was the proper beating in device in conjunction with a ball peen or pecker hammer I call it.<br/><br/>
<br/><br/>It took longer to call 4 part stores that 3 of had no clue what I wanted than to install them. 15 minutes.<br/><br/>I'm a tall fat guy and used a lift but the same results could be had by someone in more shape and laying on the ground.
