Current Ball Joint Question
#31
I drilled my originals and still going strong at 144k!
This a good thread,
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
#32
This a good thread,
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Yes, I drilled and installed my zerks into the bottom of both lower ball joints laying on my back in the driveway with the tires on.
#33
#34
#35
Anyone who stumbles on this thread, I posted where the shop did my uppers only.... If you have it apart, change all four, it does make sense. The lower on my drivers side took a rapid dump over the last month. Vibrations at speed were the tipoff that something was wrong and I was looking for issues with my new X/C springs, but low and behold, pry bar under the tire trick and I can clearly see the lower on the drivers side is quite sloppy loose. So much for the shop saving me some money. At least I have a third vehicle to drive and a 20 ton press, and a separate ball joint press if that doesn't do the trick, so I can attempt to replace the lowers myself this time. Might do new unit bearings while I have it apart since I hate doing things twice.
AAAAHHHA CRAP
#36
No pics, sorry. But picture an old fat guy laying on his back on an asphalt driveway with a right angle drill. I gobbed some grease onto the bottom of the bottom ball joints and the drill bit (to hopefully capture and stray metal shavings from the drilling). Then I just drilled a hole into the center-ish of each lower ball joint and then installed a pair of the hammer in style zerk fittings, I don't recall the exact name for them but you just hammer them into the proper sized hole vs having to tap threads. Then I pumped red Mobil 1 synthetic grease into each joint.
#37
No pics, sorry. But picture an old fat guy laying on his back on an asphalt driveway with a right angle drill. I gobbed some grease onto the bottom of the bottom ball joints and the drill bit (to hopefully capture and stray metal shavings from the drilling). Then I just drilled a hole into the center-ish of each lower ball joint and then installed a pair of the hammer in style zerk fittings, I don't recall the exact name for them but you just hammer them into the proper sized hole vs having to tap threads. Then I pumped red Mobil 1 synthetic grease into each joint.
Good enough, was wondering if you went in to the bottom center. Did you install a 90deg zerk ?? Never seen a hammer in
#38
#39
No pics, sorry. But picture an old fat guy laying on his back on an asphalt driveway with a right angle drill. I gobbed some grease onto the bottom of the bottom ball joints and the drill bit (to hopefully capture and stray metal shavings from the drilling). Then I just drilled a hole into the center-ish of each lower ball joint and then installed a pair of the hammer in style zerk fittings, I don't recall the exact name for them but you just hammer them into the proper sized hole vs having to tap threads. Then I pumped red Mobil 1 synthetic grease into each joint.
#41
I'm guessing you will lose your warranty if you drill out new joints.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
#42
I'm guessing you will lose your warranty if you drill out new joints.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
My lowers failed. I am having difficulty believing that greasing a ball joint that is already worn and allowing play would actually help. It may feel a little tighter because the grease is taking up some of the space that is allowing slop, but under a 4 ton truck I wouldn't think it would make a difference.
Sorry to hear your lowers are bad.
#43
I'm thinking of drilling my sloppy lower just to see what difference it makes...my new moog uppers and lowers should arrive tomorrow though so it would just be an experiment until I change them. Probably dont need uppers as they are only a year or so old but I can't go this far and only do the lowers. Not again.
#44
My ex has 116k, neither upper or lower have zerks. I have done every recommendation re wandering even a new red head box.
No obvious slop in any of the linkage.
Alignment done a few weeks ago.
The overall characteristics of the truck where at a 9 upon buying it at 104k
Now they are at a 2-3, with wandering being the only concern, which was dramatically reduced with the box though.
Red head offered to send another but recommend I look closer at the lower ball joints as they may be sticking.
No obvious slop in any of the linkage.
Alignment done a few weeks ago.
The overall characteristics of the truck where at a 9 upon buying it at 104k
Now they are at a 2-3, with wandering being the only concern, which was dramatically reduced with the box though.
Red head offered to send another but recommend I look closer at the lower ball joints as they may be sticking.
#45
<br/>
The drill bit is 5/16, .010 smaller than the barbs of the fitting.<br/><br/>Removing tire would have gotten a tad straighter angle.....buy I'm impatient...<br/><br/>
Proper use of tools is rule number 40.<br/>1/4" drive 7mm socket was the proper beating in device in conjunction with a ball peen or pecker hammer I call it.<br/><br/>
<br/><br/>It took longer to call 4 part stores that 3 of had no clue what I wanted than to install them. 15 minutes.<br/><br/>I'm a tall fat guy and used a lift but the same results could be had by someone in more shape and laying on the ground.