I'm about to redo my rear crank seal and I am not sure of a few things. It's in a 1951 M5, not that that matters. Do I use the grey ones or white ones and do I have to soak them in oil for a couple hours? I have a new neoprene one for the front timing cover. The gasket set came with both white and grey rope seals. Or do I need to use the white rope seals somewhere else that I am not aware of.
Any help would be appreciated. , Doug.

 

I think the last flathead I had the pan off of I used the white seal. It doesn't leak.

 

Here's the info FelPro should have included in the package. I really don't know what the difference is between 48 - 51 and 52 - 53 in this area, but they think there is one.

 

I didn't see one of those lists in the package. I will have to look more carefully. Joblot Auto sells a repair kit for rear seal using graphite rope seal for years 39-53. So I think maybe i will use it.

 

That's just it, FelPro doesn't include that in their sets. I've used the Best Gasket rear seal (which appears to be what's in the JobLot kit) with mixed results. It's all about the fitting with any of them. The little "popsicle stick" Best includes is sheer genius, really helps.

 

So what is the secret to getting a good fit? Or is it just the nature of the whole set up that is just a poor design and is prone to leak. Should I put a dab of silicone on the ends of each rope seal before I put the pan gasket and pan back together? Doug.

 

I really don't understand what the Popsicle stick is for.

 

Do I need to soak the new seals in oil still? I only want to do this once and I am just trying to give it the best chance of success as possible. Doug

 

The popsicle stick and the horseshoe-shaped piece are the exact thickness as the amount of rope you are supposed to leave proud of the block. The horseshoe-shaped piecefits around the rope, the stick is on the other side. Then you just run the cutting knife along the stick to cut it off clean. Yes, a small dab of RTV at the joint between pan gasket and rope is recommended.

Teflon seals don't need to be soaked, they won't absorb anything anyway.

The real secret is to really spend some time rolling the rope deep into the groove, starting at the center. If you don't stuff it in tight, as soon as you bolt it up it will pull the rope in deep and leave a gap at the parting line.

 

Ok I don't think the gasket set has the stick and horseshoe so I should just make sure the gasket sticks up 1/16 of on inch and that should be good.

 

Ok Ross, thanks for your help. Of all the stuff I've done this makes me the most nervous. Just don't want to screw it up. What do you use to roll the seal into the groove.

 

I have an old transmission shaft that is about 1.5" diameter, like a steel rolling pin. A piece of steel pipe would work fine.

 

Great , thanks again. Doug