Suspension lift questions
#1
Suspension lift questions
my son and I are getting ready to order a rough country 4 inch lift for his 1977 f150 4x4 my questions is that the truck as far as i know has the original rear leaf springs. there are 2 lifts from rough country that i have in mind one has the rear leaf springs and one does not the price difference is about 200$ more if i go with the suspension lift with the new leafs so i would like to know if that having a truck this old should i have all new leafs or will they be fine with just cleaning them and putting new bolts in. Any help will be appreciated ,thanks
here are the links to the lifts
http://www.roughcountry.com/ford-sus...-78-79-20.html
http://www.roughcountry.com/ford-sus...-77-79-20.html
here are the links to the lifts
http://www.roughcountry.com/ford-sus...-78-79-20.html
http://www.roughcountry.com/ford-sus...-77-79-20.html
#3
#5
I literally just put the 4 inch Rough Country lift on my 79 Today!!!! I used the kit that comes with blocks for the back. I believe the part number was 415.20. With all air tools, multiple jacks, fork lift and nice climate controlled building it took my father in law and I just over 6 hours to do this install. The longest part was getting the studs out of the steering knuckle so the spacer could be put in. I plan on posting pictures tomorrow. To tired tonight. Came home after doing the lift and put in a new water heater.
I noticed you stated your truck is a 77. My kit was for 77.5 to 79 "lowboy"
I noticed you stated your truck is a 77. My kit was for 77.5 to 79 "lowboy"
#7
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#8
One block is ok because that is how it comes from the factory.....new leafs with NO blocks at all is even better.
Even with the one block you still get a transfer of torque from the motor to the driveline, to the axles and that is transferred into a twisting action of the axle and that is relayed into axle wrap and into "S" flex of the leaf springs, especially under heavy acceleration.
That is why racers put traction bars/ladder bars to arrest axle twist...I think I understand it correctly? Work with me here. Big off road tires ...even worse.
When you stack blocks you are increasing the distance from the leaf spring to the axle and the blocks act as a fulcrum and easily multiplying the axle/leaf spring twisting effects.
Therefore stacked blocks are not the optimum set up.
But the cheaper way to go....
Even with the one block you still get a transfer of torque from the motor to the driveline, to the axles and that is transferred into a twisting action of the axle and that is relayed into axle wrap and into "S" flex of the leaf springs, especially under heavy acceleration.
That is why racers put traction bars/ladder bars to arrest axle twist...I think I understand it correctly? Work with me here. Big off road tires ...even worse.
When you stack blocks you are increasing the distance from the leaf spring to the axle and the blocks act as a fulcrum and easily multiplying the axle/leaf spring twisting effects.
Therefore stacked blocks are not the optimum set up.
But the cheaper way to go....
#9
One block is ok because that is how it comes from the factory.....new leafs with NO blocks at all is even better.
Even with the one block you still get a transfer of torque from the motor to the driveline, to the axles and that is transferred into a twisting action of the axle and that is relayed into axle wrap and into "S" flex of the leaf springs, especially under heavy acceleration.
That is why racers put traction bars/ladder bars to arrest axle twist...I think I understand it correctly? Work with me here. Big off road tires ...even worse.
When you stack blocks you are increasing the distance from the leaf spring to the axle and the blocks act as a fulcrum and easily multiplying the axle/leaf spring twisting effects.
Therefore stacked blocks are not the optimum set up.
But the cheaper way to go....
Even with the one block you still get a transfer of torque from the motor to the driveline, to the axles and that is transferred into a twisting action of the axle and that is relayed into axle wrap and into "S" flex of the leaf springs, especially under heavy acceleration.
That is why racers put traction bars/ladder bars to arrest axle twist...I think I understand it correctly? Work with me here. Big off road tires ...even worse.
When you stack blocks you are increasing the distance from the leaf spring to the axle and the blocks act as a fulcrum and easily multiplying the axle/leaf spring twisting effects.
Therefore stacked blocks are not the optimum set up.
But the cheaper way to go....
#10
#12
I believe Atlas sells lift kits with an option to delete the need for a rear block all together.
1973-1979 F250//F350 4x4 Atlas SuspensionAtlas Spring Company
1973-1979 F250//F350 4x4 Atlas SuspensionAtlas Spring Company
#13
Blocks are acceptable for mild trail running IMO... not a good idea for rocks and crevices where the wheel(s) can get in a bind... They're more likely to get spit out due to the axle-wrapping that is likely to occur.
#14
i ordered the 4" lift kit with the blocks from RC myself last year. never used their blocks though being as my truck already had them in the rear. i just used the front springs to level my 78 f250 out. not sure if that helps you put or not. but i was able to put 37x12.50 military tires on it and ran a few trails since ive moved back to nc. doesnt seem to give me any problems and has a decent flex
#15