Hard Code 18; No Start, No Tach
#1
Hard Code 18; No Start, No Tach
The pickup had code 18 (among others) when I brought it home. I wrongly focused on a few other issues before tackling this one. Originally it ran strong under throttle, had a very good cold start, a very poor warm start, and a surging idle when warm. The idle set screw has been tampered with and the wiring harness has signs that it's been gone through. Now it turns over but won't start. (Other codes were present)
Currently I have no spark, or intermittent spark at the plugs. I have no spark, or intermittent spark at the ignition coil. I do have 12.1 volts to the ignition coil and my tester light flashes on the PIP side when cranking. Because of this I thought the ignition coil was bad. A new NAPA coil makes no difference. Just in case it was a grounding issue, I made a temporary ground from the battery negative to engine with a jumper cable -- no change.
I'm pretty sure I found the SPOUT plug and it's been plugged in. My next step will be the wiggle test and to tear into the wiring and look for shorts. I don't mind telling you, I'm a bit discouraged at the moment, I've had three vehicles with wiring-type issues, and I was never able to find the problem in any one of them.
If anyone has suggestions or encouragement, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Currently I have no spark, or intermittent spark at the plugs. I have no spark, or intermittent spark at the ignition coil. I do have 12.1 volts to the ignition coil and my tester light flashes on the PIP side when cranking. Because of this I thought the ignition coil was bad. A new NAPA coil makes no difference. Just in case it was a grounding issue, I made a temporary ground from the battery negative to engine with a jumper cable -- no change.
I'm pretty sure I found the SPOUT plug and it's been plugged in. My next step will be the wiggle test and to tear into the wiring and look for shorts. I don't mind telling you, I'm a bit discouraged at the moment, I've had three vehicles with wiring-type issues, and I was never able to find the problem in any one of them.
If anyone has suggestions or encouragement, I'd greatly appreciate it.
#4
Thanks for the info. I have no local place that tests these modules, so I'm going to order some wire piercing probes (I'll should have some anyway) and I'll make an LED test light like this one here and I'll test it myself. I will report back. (edit: testing like this.)
According to this, we are 9% more likely to be involved in a fatal accident in a TFI equipped vehicle than one not. But hey, they probably saved six feet of wire by mounting it to the distributor.
According to this, we are 9% more likely to be involved in a fatal accident in a TFI equipped vehicle than one not. But hey, they probably saved six feet of wire by mounting it to the distributor.
#6
The new Motorcraft PIP sensor still tests bad. I'm testing by backprobing the TFI (ICM). This makes me think the TFI is bad.
Also, according to my new , I have spark. Maybe I always did but my earlier tests were performed with a grounded spark plug and I only saw the occasional spark.
Still no tach.
Oh, I do have fuel -- 40 psi at the rail upon cranking and no love with starter fluid. So the injectors must not be firing which points me back to the TFI I guess.
Also, according to my new , I have spark. Maybe I always did but my earlier tests were performed with a grounded spark plug and I only saw the occasional spark.
Still no tach.
Oh, I do have fuel -- 40 psi at the rail upon cranking and no love with starter fluid. So the injectors must not be firing which points me back to the TFI I guess.
#7
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