I agree with Scott...

They don't go bad on their own... If they said it was fine yesterday, then one of their guys must've screwed it up... If they did not get the piping tight or filter seated correctly, it could have ingested dirt and Dusted it...

 

Waiting to hear what they come back with. I cancelled the payment and will wait to hear what BS is next. If they say the turbo is on me then will be done and seek council.

 

BZZZZT, Wrong! Motor goes bad, doesn't provide adequate oil to lube the bearing. Not unusual at all. The one I just installed ruined the turbo as well. It didn't make it past the test drive though. No boost, the turbo was locked up. Calm down, it should be written up as related damage.

 

Well i hope it is not related damage because none of this is covered. It is all out of pocket

 

Just be prepared. I'm betting that the turbo will be locked solid. Same way with my customer. Ran and boosted just fine, then the motor went south.

 

The 2011 are also famous for having turbo failures all by themselves, no shocker that yours failed, just like vloney said.
Mine blew up pulling out of my neighborhood, driving easy not like I ususlaly do.
BTW
Never, ever, ever, ever take a vehicle to a dealer once the warranty is out. I meant to say never, never, never, ever take to dealership after warranty .... ever!!

 

I have to tell you that the number one rule of any shop I ever worked in and race team I worked on was -
If the motor blows, every oil line, every oil cooler, every oil pump, every filter gets flushed or replaced. Some oil coolers cannot be flushed. Some oil lines are too cheap to take a chance on.
If the wrenches working in the dealerships are not doing this, then they can very well be a contributing factor to the collateral damage from the engine explosion.

 

This for sure. Dealers are crooks, if they aren't doing it free don't let them even touch it, will cost you about double a normal mechanic, lol!

 

The "oil line" on those turbo's is a flat gasket. When you replace a 6.7 motor, the oil cooler comes with a long block. The oil comes up through a hole in the valley directly into the turbo. The only line there is, is a coolant line.

 

Yeah, the most of our business is indie garage repairs gone wrong. The customer has usually spent twice as much money as they should have. Are there questionable dealer techs, sure. Are there questionable indie techs, sure. Never condemn one group unless you know all the facts.

 

Presuming that the turbo bolts up to the brand new long block, then if there's any shrapnel in it, it would be in the oil galley of the turbo itself right?
Would you not want to inspect that and flush it?
Sorry but all the turbo's I've worked on used external oil lines and received their oil from the output side of the oil cooler and dumped back into the sump.

One of the reasons I quit working for dealerships a hundred years ago was because they were turning us into R&R mechanics and we were not allowed to do much in the way of repairing assemblies.. It may be the same way today..

 

Yea there are bad indie guys too no doubt, but assuming a reputable place it will be cheaper than dealer every time. Dealers charge what the book says it takes to complete which is always longer than actual, indies charge actual. I'm not saying dealer techs don't know what they are doing, I'm just saying they overcharge.

 

When these turbos are turning 20 k rpms or better, slight damage to a bearing can make its presence known quickly flushed or not. Yes, mine was flushed and inspected. CAC was inspected. When you cut off oil to a turbo, damage is done. Some might be slight, some catastrophic. Measuring wear is done with dial indicators, both radial and axial. Mine passed, then failed later.

 

Like I said, get ALL the facts. HMMMM, we use the same book as the indies.................

 

I've never met an independent shop that charges actual time.