Hi all, went to change the oil myself for the first time and saw after the oil drained that there was a large amount of black sludg slowly coming out.
Is there a way to get this cleaned out without taking off the oil pan?
The oil pan does have the round clean out which I will try but wasn't sure if there was something to put into the new oil to help clean the system.

Thanks,

 

Old timers would replace one quart of the oil in the crankcase with kerosene, fast idle (no load, do not drive it!!) for a half hour or so and drain. Sometimes working sludge loose causes more problems than not? Might be inclined to both pull the pan and clean out, and then flush. Back in the day they used nondetergent motor oils.

 

I will be changing mine for the first time very soon 1950 Ford F1, just waiting on the new oil filter to get here. It has the original canister type, never done one. So I'm very interested in the outcome to say the least.

 

Pull the pan, anything else is likely to be little benefit and high risk. It takes less than an hour to pull the pan, even the first time. It helps if you jack the truck up by the frame a couple inches (not by axle) to increase the clearance from pan to axle. Be sure to have a new gasket "in case". If you don't want to mess with the rope seal, just leave it unless it's gushing.

 

Easy stuff. You'll want to note the position of the canister lid to ensure that you get the new filter fully seated. Novice mechanics - say, like me - might be inclined to under compress the unit and have an oil cleanup in aisle 3.

 

Filter is available at most auto parts stores, most NAPA stores stock them. Of course the truth is the stock canister oil filter is really pretty useless, but it looks cool.

 

That's not true. It doesn't filter oil before it goes to the bearings, but it is a finer filter than a spin-on, and filters 5 qts in 10 minutes at idle speeds.

The element is a NAPA 1006

 

I've been told by two different engine builders that it filters one quart in about 10 hours....

 

Not true, one of the Ford Barn guys has actually measured the flow. The 8BA oil pumps were increased about 10% in flow compared to 59AB's to provide for the filters. Figure 10% of the engine oil being ultra-filtered constantly, it is very effective, especially with modern oils and an engine that has been cleaned of all sludge. I saved this off the net:

"A bypass filter like the original will remove finer particles than a "full flow" type filter

Most ring and bearing wear is caused by particles under 20 microns

a bypass filter will remove 98% of 2 micron sized particles

A full flow filter most likely will open the internal bypass valve on cold startup and not filter till the oil thins some, then ---
40% at 10 microns
60% at 20 microns
90% at30 microns
97% at 40 microns
87% capture rate for single pass ----
the "full flow" filter has to be a compromise between filtering and flow, the ideal setup would be a combination of full flow and bypass

The million mile Mercedes only had a bypass filter"

 

X2 I am an old timer, but I cringe every time someone mentions a fast clean of sludge buildup. I prefer a slower method. 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil added to crankcase for a couple oil changes cleans up things without breaking loose large chunks that can clog oil passages.

 

That's good to know. The one builder told me that he always recommends changing to the spin on type filters when he rebuilds flatheads because the small lines on the canister filters restrict the flow so much that they hardly do any good at all. Thinking about that statement, it is possible that after 40-60 years if an engine has not been rebuilt and has extensive sludge buildup in the oil it could drastically reduce the flow rate of any filter system.
With a nice freshly rebuilt engine like Edith has, and the information that you have provided, I am glad that I decided to stick with the old filter system.
Thanks for the info Ross.

 

I found this discussion of bypass oil filtering efficiency in the flathead. It seems well researched and well written. It claims that almost oil will be filtered in s ahort highway trip.
Oil and Filtration Systems ? Albuquerque Tumbleweed Ford Flathead V8 Club

 

The oil filter cartridge I use in my 8BA is the Wix one, picture attached. That one has the metal body,, not paper. Seems well made and is in stock at my local O'reillys Auto parts. It is an easy one to replace.

I have also posted two pictures of the oil restrictor fitting between the block and the oil filter. I had mine out because of a slight oil leak atround the threads. I think it is the normal stock restrictor.

 

That's not the restrictor. On a '50 the restrictor is screwed right into the inlet of the filter. It's a much smaller hole, .059 - .061".

The NAPA 1006 is also made by Wix and has the metal wrap. NAPA's are up to $15 now, how much was yours?

 

The NAPA here in town stocks the filter $12.99, nearest O'reilly is 35 miles further in the next town, they have to order the filter and the price is $15.99 Advance Auto Parts and Autozone carry Purolator, Fram and Champion brands, that are cheaper, but don't come with gaskets, and they have to be ordered.