Smog Delete & Engine Rebuild: 1988 F150 302 5.0L
#16
And fordboy.. With the mobile version is there not an option at the bottom of page to "view full site"? Or just get on here via the internet rather than the app.
And I also just raN a shorter belt.I found a part number off a forum and it WaS wrong. So I used the measuring tape and the guess and check method. It has had no negative effects so far. And never a check engine light
And I also just raN a shorter belt.I found a part number off a forum and it WaS wrong. So I used the measuring tape and the guess and check method. It has had no negative effects so far. And never a check engine light
#20
#21
Your exactly right trav. I do have pics of my engine but none specifically showing the deleted emissions devices. I'll have to take some better pics tomorrow for the guys on this forum there seems to be a lot of them interested. Heck I might even make a how to thread on the subject.
#22
Here's a link to my build thread on the other forum, I'm username tanman90. http://www.f150forum.com/f10/tanman9...thread-278755/
There are some pics of the engine in there somewhere lol.
There are some pics of the engine in there somewhere lol.
#23
Ok guys good news I got a photobucket account and found out how to post pics. Here are the only ones I have right now, I will take better ones for y'all tomorrow
In the first pic you can kind of see the routing of the shorter belt and the absence of the smog pump and other hoses and such. You can also see the tab and tad still there
In the first pic you can kind of see the routing of the shorter belt and the absence of the smog pump and other hoses and such. You can also see the tab and tad still there
#24
FordBoy97 - EGR Delete
1. No problem man, glad to help. I have had my egr and thermactor systems deleted for a while now with no problems at all. The upper intake manifold must be removed to delete the egr so it is a little more involved but it's easy to do.
2. There is a vacuum diagram either on your airbox or on the underside of your hood showing the emissions system vacuum lines. The lines from the vacuum canister (located on the passenger side inner fender) go to the bottom ports of the tab and tad solenoid and the lines on the top ports go to the tab or tad valves. The holes in the back of the heads are threaded and some plug them with bolts. I would have done that but it was easier to use the existing crossover pipe ends bolted on backwards and on opposite sides (may seem confusing but when u look at it it becomes obvious).
3. Also when the smog is deleted the pipe that runs to the exhaust is completely removed anyway. If your OEM cats are deleted then the thermactor system is completely useless.[/QUOTE]
1. Hey - you've got me reconsidering the EGR delete since my engine is completely disassembled and being reworked at the machine shop. Meanwhile, I have broken down the upper intake manny so EGR stuff is all right there. So - for the EGR delete, the steps are to block the EGR port with a solid blank spacer. Then what? There is an insulated line that winds around the bottom of the intake manny and screws into either the head or the lower intake. Is this port blocked as well?
2. I used your idea of cutting off the ends of the "air bar" to use as plugs for the back of the heads. The ports in both of the ends were 100% obstructed with carbon. Good idea. As for the vac diagram - I don't have one anywhere on my truck but I do have a genuine Ford service manual so I will look for that diagram today as I am rebuilding the vac harness with rubber hose. The plastic stuff is all brittle and cracked in many places.
3. What would you recommend for an updated exhaust system? I would like to add shorty headers and then...? Any info regarding brand/cost/location would be greatly appreciated.
It's sunny and blue in Asheville today - thanks again for all the info. I think I owe you a cup of coffee or something. vince
2. There is a vacuum diagram either on your airbox or on the underside of your hood showing the emissions system vacuum lines. The lines from the vacuum canister (located on the passenger side inner fender) go to the bottom ports of the tab and tad solenoid and the lines on the top ports go to the tab or tad valves. The holes in the back of the heads are threaded and some plug them with bolts. I would have done that but it was easier to use the existing crossover pipe ends bolted on backwards and on opposite sides (may seem confusing but when u look at it it becomes obvious).
3. Also when the smog is deleted the pipe that runs to the exhaust is completely removed anyway. If your OEM cats are deleted then the thermactor system is completely useless.[/QUOTE]
1. Hey - you've got me reconsidering the EGR delete since my engine is completely disassembled and being reworked at the machine shop. Meanwhile, I have broken down the upper intake manny so EGR stuff is all right there. So - for the EGR delete, the steps are to block the EGR port with a solid blank spacer. Then what? There is an insulated line that winds around the bottom of the intake manny and screws into either the head or the lower intake. Is this port blocked as well?
2. I used your idea of cutting off the ends of the "air bar" to use as plugs for the back of the heads. The ports in both of the ends were 100% obstructed with carbon. Good idea. As for the vac diagram - I don't have one anywhere on my truck but I do have a genuine Ford service manual so I will look for that diagram today as I am rebuilding the vac harness with rubber hose. The plastic stuff is all brittle and cracked in many places.
3. What would you recommend for an updated exhaust system? I would like to add shorty headers and then...? Any info regarding brand/cost/location would be greatly appreciated.
It's sunny and blue in Asheville today - thanks again for all the info. I think I owe you a cup of coffee or something. vince
#25
Photos look GREAT! Belt routing mod is clear.
Ok guys good news I got a photobucket account and found out how to post pics. Here are the only ones I have right now, I will take better ones for y'all tomorrow
In the first pic you can kind of see the routing of the shorter belt and the absence of the smog pump and other hoses and such. You can also see the tab and tad still there
In the first pic you can kind of see the routing of the shorter belt and the absence of the smog pump and other hoses and such. You can also see the tab and tad still there
#26
1. Hey - you've got me reconsidering the EGR delete since my engine is completely disassembled and being reworked at the machine shop. Meanwhile, I have broken down the upper intake manny so EGR stuff is all right there. So - for the EGR delete, the steps are to block the EGR port with a solid blank spacer. Then what? There is an insulated line that winds around the bottom of the intake manny and screws into either the head or the lower intake. Is this port blocked as well?
2. I used your idea of cutting off the ends of the "air bar" to use as plugs for the back of the heads. The ports in both of the ends were 100% obstructed with carbon. Good idea. As for the vac diagram - I don't have one anywhere on my truck but I do have a genuine Ford service manual so I will look for that diagram today as I am rebuilding the vac harness with rubber hose. The plastic stuff is all brittle and cracked in many places.
3. What would you recommend for an updated exhaust system? I would like to add shorty headers and then...? Any info regarding brand/cost/location would be greatly appreciated.
It's sunny and blue in Asheville today - thanks again for all the info. I think I owe you a cup of coffee or something. vince
Then I put a block off plate underneath the egr valve that I made out of a piece of soda can. Sounds jerry rigged but it works well. Then I left the egr valve in place and hooked up as usual to keep the CEL off
2. I recommend replacing all of your small vacuum lines with the 5/32" rubber vac hose, including the one that runs from the intake to the map sensor and the one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. I'll take some pics for you today to show you
3. Exhaust is purely just how you want it to sound. These conversations can get pretty controversial. But I recommend a good set of long tube headers and after that its just how you want it run. Personally I ran true duals exiting straight out the back with tips
#27
#28
I took some more pics for anyone interested. In this pic you can see the routing of the shorter belt. in this pic you can see the empty spot where the smog pump used to be here's where the smog pump filter and other hoses used to be for this pic I unplugged the tab and tad so you could see the capped off vacuum ports and also the new lines on the bottom ports. these pics are just showing the new vacuum lines running from the vacuum tree to the map sensor and the fpr and at the vacuum canister
#29
I like I like the way this is going for you man. I remember plugging off that tube on the back off the engine at the ports for both ends and that always worked great for me on my truck. Egr I just capped all the vacuum lines to, never worked right for me and always caused the truck to buck and fixing it has become a huge money pit for me than it could ever pay back in the future for me with a slight gain in MPG.
#30